Who knows Ford 302?

[Haut Medoc]

I have a 73 Searay, model 888, Ford 302 that over -heats @ high rpm. I have checked every part of the sea-water & fresh-water sections, and am convinced that there are no water supply or exhaust restrictions. The merc manual says a blown head gasket will cause overheat @ high rpm. There is no test other than removing the heads. Here's the real question- How do I adjust the lifters? The manual says that you need a special tool to collapse the lifters and measure the gap. I've done Chevy before and its nothing like that. So I'm unclear on what exactly should I be measuring? What if the gaps are different? Enough said. Those of you who are in the know can see where I'm going with this. It runs great other than the over-heat thing. Thanks, Jeff

 

[Boomyal]

Re: Who knows Ford 302?

Not familiar with Merc model numbers, but are you sure the valves are adjustable. I have a 75 OMC 302 190 hp and they are not adjustable. As to the overheat, take a compression test. Cast iron heads take quite a bit of abuse before they blow a headgasket. How hot do your exhaust manifolds get?

 

[Haut Medoc]

Re: Who knows Ford 302?

Boomyal, I never worked on a Ford. So I don't know. There must be something holding them down , [rocker arms] . On a chevy, its 1 turn past 0 lash. Do you just make them tight? The Merc Book is for G.M., but it says you can't detect it by compression test. Hot. Try looking at my other post, it goes into detail with what was done. Thanks, Jeff

 

[steve n carol]

Re: Who knows Ford 302?

I also have the 302. Haven't read that far ahead in the manual. To my knoledge, on the automotive, conventional Hyd.cam, there is no adjustment, except different length pushrods, (for head / deck mills etc.) we just ran them down all the way is what I remember. the last few turns are you're critical ones. If you decide to remove the valve train, re-install in the same order as you removed the componets. see skipas posts about his current engine/valve train snafus. have a safe 4th...sl

 

[Haut Medoc]

Re: Who knows Ford 302?

Steve, Thanks for your input. I guess I didn't read the manual close enough. It just seems crazy that to get the right valve clearance you just add a longer or shorter stick, but I guess it works. I can see why it's so important to put the rods back in the exact same place. One thing I can't find is how tight do you to torque the retainer nuts on the rocker arms? It's not in the table. Thanks for your input, you definetly shed some light on the subject. Have A HAPPY! Jeff

 

[Haut Medoc]

Re: Who knows Ford 302?

Mr. boomyal, can you shed any further light on the subject? Thanks, Jeff

 

[rattana]

Re: Who knows Ford 302?

On the small block 302 the rocker arm studs should be torqued to 20 ftlbs. They are not adjustable like on a chevy. The manual says that the valve clearance must be checked if the face and the seats have been ground, or if there is excessive noise in the valve train which is not due to a collapsed lifter. I think that is where they start talking about the tool to compress the lifter so they can check clearances.

 

[Haut Medoc]

Re: Who knows Ford 302?

Rattana, it runs good other than the over-heat, so I don't think that I need to anything more than to make sure that I keep the rods right . Thanks for the info. I think I can proceed now.Jeff

 

[steve n carol]

Re: Who knows Ford 302?

J.kopec...the rods, rocker arms, lifters, (if removed). we used a piece of cardboard w/16 holes punched in it w/a screwdriver and an <----- pointing to the front. we stuck the rods in in the order of removal. and bigger screwdriver for the lifters. wait...."The merc manual says a blown head gasket will cause overheat @ high rpm. There is no test other than removing the heads. Here's the real question- How do I adjust the lifters?" why did you want to adjust the lifters?

 

[achris]

Re: Who knows Ford 302?

Jeff,<br /><br />As the lifters are hydraulic they will be sort of, self-adjust. They act like oil pumps and will only travel the amount allowed by the closed valve. The correct 'adjustment' is to torque the rocker bolt to 20 ft. lb.<br /><br />The collapsing of the lifter to measure the gap only needs to be done after heads or block face have been milled.<br /><br />Have you done a compression test or looked in the heat exchanger yet?<br /><br />Chris.............<br /><br />Edit: just read the other thread and see you have bubbles. Usually a sign of a head gasket.

 

[Haut Medoc]

Re: Who knows Ford 302?

I never worked on a Ford. Chevy is adjustible, I just got confused by the way the manual is written. I'm convinced that I have a blown head gasket. Nowhere in the book did I see the torque spec for the lifters. 203 works for me. I'll let you know how I made out. Thanks, J

 

[ron7000]

Re: Who knows Ford 302?

hey,<br />I have a model 233, 1976, which is the 351w and practically identical to your 302/888.<br />It is fresh water cooled, ie closed system with heat exchanger? I've seen fresh water cooled 302's with no thermostats in the FWC side overheat. So make sure it's a good thermo.<br />I'm suprised nobody said check your timing. Overheating at high rpm is a classic sign of too much advance. I think max advance is 32 degs. I would think if it were a head gasket problem, you would have problems at other rpms, and would probably see water in the oil. Only other thing I can think off, is scale/rust buildup blocking water flow in the exhaust manifolds. Seeing how it's 30 years old, or however old the manifolds are, that is most likely a factor. Pull some hoses with the motor running at various rpms and check the flow. Also check hose stiffness, that'll indicate if the water pump is pumping good. If you can compress the hose with your hand, and don't feel a surge back, then that pump (fresh or sea water side) isn't pumping good.<br /><br />Also, the 302 is notorious for being an oil sludge monster. Keep the oil clean and run at minimum 160 thermo, and 180 if you can. Always get the oil hot, and avoid short runtimes to prevent moisture buildup in the oil.<br />Hope that helps.

 

[llerrad]

Re: Who knows Ford 302?

Got the same engine real tough, did not see any mention of impeller condition or is this a closed system? Might change water pump? Lifters are hyd. self adjusting, rocker arm torque 20-22ft/lbs, may rap at start up as they pump up.<br />Head gasket gone air will build up on thermostat temp sender will not read steam, temp guage will rise fast then drop fast as over heated water hits sender themo will open fast gauge will remain somewhat irratic, go for the pumps first. Check timming 14deg. BTDC, dwell 27-32deg, set dwell then timing.

 

[GREG 418]

Re: Who knows Ford 302?

I don't know much about boats yet but I do know a few things about the 302 ford engines. <br />It sounds like your engine has the "pedistal" mount rocker arms. These are not easily adjustable but you can to a pretty simple check on your valve lash. <br /><br />Loosen all the rockers off a couple of turns and then proceed to go through and do lash like you would a chevy. I you are uncertain about what you are doing there is a very simple way to do this one cylinder at a time. Turn the engine over until the exhaust valve is just beginning to open. At this point the intake lifter will be running on the base circle of the cam and you can check your lash. If you have already loosened the rockers off the rocker and pushrod should have some play in them. Use one hand to rotate the pushrod back and forth between your fingers and with the other hand slowly turn the rocker arm bolt back down. Make sure you don't put any pressure on the rocker itself with the socket. That can make it feel like the bolt is beginning to tighten on the rocker. As soon as the bolt begins to put pressure on the rocker you will feel resistance on the pushrod and it will not rotate between your fingers as easilly. Stop turning the bolt down, this should now be at Zero lash. Remove the socket from the bolt and give the pushrod one last check to make sure you are actually at zero lash and didn't put pressure on the rocker by mistake. Now take your torque wrench and set it to 20-22lb-ft. Proceed to torque the bolt down but keep very close track of how many turns you put on the wrench to reach the torque spec. Anything from .5 to 1.25 turns is good. Between .75 turns and 1 turn is prefered. <br />Now turn the engine over some more and wait until the intake valve opens and is almost closed. Now the exhaust will be on its base circle and you can repeat the procedure on the exhaust valve.<br /><br />Do this with every cylinder. If you have some rockers that are less than .5 turns you will need to get longer pushrods. This is usually not the case. If you have some rocker arms that have more than 1.25 turns (common when heads or block have been machined or if valve seats are bad) crane cams sells shims that you can place under the rocker arm pedistals to correct this. Most automotive performance shops will carry these.<br /><br />Hope this helps.<br /><br />Greg