Why doesn't my Tach work?

adriandavidpayne

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 28, 2011
Messages
85
Tach Doesn't Work...
I bought a new Teleflex Tach for my Johnson GT V6 J150STLCEM 1989
thinking my old one was broken. Well it must be something else.
I don't even know where to start to trouble shoot this.
 

Haffiman

Commander
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Dec 17, 2009
Messages
2,454
Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

Check your charging. Might be a defective regulator/rectifier.. Charging should be around 14 Volts at 3000 rpm.
 

adriandavidpayne

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Aug 28, 2011
Messages
85
Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

How do I go about that? Sorry for the ignorance. I'm a music producer in Nashville, I just play a boat mechanic on TV...
 

Haffiman

Commander
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Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

Then ask your sound engineer to borrow a volt meeter and measure battery voltage when running.
 

adriandavidpayne

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Aug 28, 2011
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Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

Haha. What would the idle speed be in the driveway? Do I need to be on the water to get to 3000?
 

Will Bark

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Aug 1, 2010
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1,470
Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

Before you start the engine measure voltage at the battery then start the engine and measure again, the voltage should be higher with engine running, if not then its not charging and that would point to a rectifier/regulator not working. Do not rev the engine on muffs in the driveway up to 3000 RPMS you may see parts scattering all over the driveway. Good luck.
 

Haffiman

Commander
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Dec 17, 2009
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2,454
Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

A fully charged battery should measure 12,8 Volts, all cables disconnected.

Connect the cables, keep the volt meter hooked up, increase the rpm to 1500-2000 (max on muffs), the volts should start to climb, but perhaps not to what mentioned earlier.
 

adriandavidpayne

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 28, 2011
Messages
85
Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

Is this Rectifier/Regulator basically the alternator of the motor, or is that another piece I'm going to have to sell my soul for?
I've been noticing the battery not charging. It will read 12.5 before I go out, then when I get home 5 hours later it will read 11.7 or so. That's probably pointing right at the problem huh?
 

adriandavidpayne

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 28, 2011
Messages
85
Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

The Johnson part which is listed as 0395204 is over $200. Wow. This wasn't even on the list of things to fix!!!
I guess I'll test this one to make sure it's broken, then hit Ebay for something with less sticker shock. I just spent $200 yesterday on gauges...
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

90% chance it's your rectifier. Just replaced mine and it was like a $30 part. Don't buy a used one.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

Sorry, guess I should have done some research before I spouted off. Appears you're screwed.
 

wilde1j

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Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Messages
5,964
Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

When you replace the R/R, make sure the terminal nuts are tight (if there are wing nuts, pitch them and replace with ss hex nuts). Tighten with a wrench. One of the causes of R/R failure is loose battery connections.

Before buying a R/R, check AC voltage across the yellows to the R/R. If you don't get > 20 VAC, the stator is bad (even more than an R/R).
 

adriandavidpayne

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Aug 28, 2011
Messages
85
Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

OK, idiot question again. How do I check votage across the yellows exactly. & is it with the motor running?
Sorry, I'm just learning the lingo.
 

Haffiman

Commander
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Messages
2,454
Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

Check between each yellow and ground. In one way or the other, the flywheel has to be turning and the flywheel magnets passing the coils. The best is with engine running at idle, but you may get an indication just by cranking. You need to use an AC voltmeter or even better a DVA tester which I doubt is in the arsenal of your sound engineer?
 

adriandavidpayne

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 28, 2011
Messages
85
Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

So with it running I put the + meter on the yellow part of the junction terminal and the - on a ground...
See how confused I am?
 

wilde1j

Vice Admiral
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Apr 15, 2002
Messages
5,964
Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

No. The voltage is checked across the yellows, not to grd, and yes with the motor running, otherwise you'd always get zero.
 

Joe Reeves

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Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: Why doesn't my Tach work?

(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those water cooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35 ampere charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

NOTE: For the later models that DO NOT incorporate a wiring terminal strip, splicing into the "Yellow Wire" mentioned will be necessary.

Remove that gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.
 
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