Re: why wont the resin dry?
Sounds like you used an air inhibited resin (laminating resin). Laminating resin is a great resin for boats. It was developed for lay-up work where the mold is coated with gel coat (colored laminating resin). The side in contact with the mold is sealed from the air, so it dries hard. The inside (exposed to air) stays tacky so that the next layer of glass will stick to the vertical surfaces while it is wetted out with the next coat of resin. The trick when using laminating resin to protect the surface from air if you want a hard surface. There are several ways to do this. One is adding paraffin (wax) to the resin which will float to the top and seal off the air. The problem is that if you need to sand the area the sandpaper gets clogged with the wax and requires lots of elbow grease. Finishing resin has the paraffin already added to the resin.
The other way, and the preferred way to finish the inside of a boat with laminating resin is to use PVA. Poly Vinyl Alcohol is a green water soluble liquid that is sprayed on the surface of the laminating resin after you are done applying it, but before it dries. It goes on in light coats. It's thin like water. Usually three or four light coats are all that is necessary. Several hours later, (I usually wait till the next morning) you wash off the PVA with water and a sponge or rag and you have a nice hard surface. We routinely apply gel coat the interior of fiber glass boats then use a contrasting color with webbing solution (makes the contrasting color come out of the spray gun in stringy splatters) then coat the whole job with PVA. You end up with a hard splatter finish that is durable and looks good.
You should be able to get PVA at any good fiberglass shop along with webbing solution, styrene (for thinning), etc.
Sorry for the long winded reply. If you already knew this then no offense meant.
Sounds like you used an air inhibited resin (laminating resin). Laminating resin is a great resin for boats. It was developed for lay-up work where the mold is coated with gel coat (colored laminating resin). The side in contact with the mold is sealed from the air, so it dries hard. The inside (exposed to air) stays tacky so that the next layer of glass will stick to the vertical surfaces while it is wetted out with the next coat of resin. The trick when using laminating resin to protect the surface from air if you want a hard surface. There are several ways to do this. One is adding paraffin (wax) to the resin which will float to the top and seal off the air. The problem is that if you need to sand the area the sandpaper gets clogged with the wax and requires lots of elbow grease. Finishing resin has the paraffin already added to the resin.
The other way, and the preferred way to finish the inside of a boat with laminating resin is to use PVA. Poly Vinyl Alcohol is a green water soluble liquid that is sprayed on the surface of the laminating resin after you are done applying it, but before it dries. It goes on in light coats. It's thin like water. Usually three or four light coats are all that is necessary. Several hours later, (I usually wait till the next morning) you wash off the PVA with water and a sponge or rag and you have a nice hard surface. We routinely apply gel coat the interior of fiber glass boats then use a contrasting color with webbing solution (makes the contrasting color come out of the spray gun in stringy splatters) then coat the whole job with PVA. You end up with a hard splatter finish that is durable and looks good.
You should be able to get PVA at any good fiberglass shop along with webbing solution, styrene (for thinning), etc.
Sorry for the long winded reply. If you already knew this then no offense meant.