Will Gluvit and 3M 5200 or 3M 4200 adhere to each other?

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,126
Can't edit my post

EDIT: From a PC I made the corrections to the post above..........
 
Last edited:

bigesox11

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
136
The deck/floor are off of the boat and the problem area is basically all exposex. There are pictures from the inside and the outside of the boat. I didn't notice any loose rivets, but I'll check again.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,126
Once in the water, a small weeping rivet 'leak' could let quite a bit of water into the hull.......

I don't know exactly how Tracker boats are built, but on Starcraft tin, there is NO seam along the keel, the hull is a continous sheet of aluminum:
StarcraftDeckInstall004.jpg

The keel strip is applied to the outside only.

From your pix, it seems the same for Tracker boats. Except for that weld along the bottom:
20140609_151441.jpg


Or is that ^^^ more traces left behind of the expanding foam?

Otherwise, the hull is continous above the keel & that gap isn't likely to be letting water IN.

Since there's a gap now where you think there was none before, those rivets can no longer be bucked tight. If they aren't, they are loose and aren't water tight either.

If the gap or the impact that caused the gap is severe enough, the rivets could be cracked or sheered along their shank. The heads merely held in place by paint, gunk, some other kind of crud or whatever little bit of rivet shank left intact.

The rivets could in fact look & feel bucked tight, but are just loose enough along a seam to allow the seam to weep.
 

bigesox11

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
136
Sorry. I guess due to the maintenance to the site, I have not been able to reply.

That is not traces of expanding foam at the weld. That is some rust where the water must sit.

I haven't been able to recreate the leaking now. I tried spraying water from the outside of the boat and it stayed bone dry. I cracked the trailer jack all of the way down and let water sit hopeing to see it exit the bottom of the boat, but nothing! I am perplexed now as I "thought" I was able to make the boat take on water by running the hose from the outside before I took the front decking off to better see the area. Water formed in the back of the boat when I raised the trailer jack and began to drain out. That is what made me take a closer look at this area. Unless there was some water in the boat that I did not think was in there. It did finally warm up here in Maryland, so maybe there is expansion now that is hiding the leaky area??? I guess I am going to have to take the boat out on the water with the decking/floor off in the front of the boat and the back of the boat and see if and where it takes on water. I was all ready to repair a leak that I now cannot find.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,126
A hose from the outside won't create nearly the water pressure against a leaking/weeping seam/rivet as dropping the boat IN the water & being underway will.

The other choice is to fill the boat w/ water up to the normal water line when it's sitting in the water. That's usually up to about the chine between hull bottom & hull sides.
 

bigesox11

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
136
I will have to put the boat in the water and run it while trying to locate source of weep. Would a pressure washer be able to simulate this or would I need the waves crashing and flexing the hull while under power? I can get my hands on a pwer washer.
 
Top