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I would also suggest taking the Boating Safety course taught by the CG Auxiliary. This goes over a lot of different things including engine mtc. <br />Starter would not have anything to do with the engine dying out on the lake. sounds more ignition or carb problem.
gallma,<br />I can definately relate to your trials with the new (used) boat. I am a female also and just got my boat in July. I have been towed in 5 times trying to get the engine working correctly. Now I have a friend of mine, a Harley guy, show up at the shop with me each time to speak to the mechanic about what is going on. I've already paid for a rebuilt o/b and there is plenty of opportunity to get taken advantage of. This forum has some great advise. Best of luck to you.
I too am a female and have had several boats, but I am not a mechanic. I did have a similar problem with an I/O and after changing every thing I recognized, I realized it was water in the fuel. Change the fuel filter and put some gas freshener in the tank. It's cheaper than rebuilding an engine and won't do any harm.
Change mechanics now...a bad starter doesn't make the engine run rough. This sounds like an ignition problem. I would start the boat in the driveway (on muffs of course)after making sure that all plug wires were firmly connected and the spark plugs were tight. While at idle pull the plug wires one at a time from the distributor. If the sound or idle speed of the engine doesn't change when a wire is pulled...that wire or plug is bad. If the wire/plug is good, you will easily notice an instant change in the way the engine runs and sounds. Anyone can do this and it should not take 15 minutes. If you find bad wires or plugs go to NAPA and ask for their Sierra line of marine parts...a complete set of wires and plugs will run around $50 bucks. It is a simple job to replace them...remove the wires from the sparkplug end only...replace plugs. Replace wires one at a time, starting with the longest wire. If you are not comfortable with this, any husband/boyfriend should be glad to do it. If not, replace male
Ya know, if this boat had a salt water history, I would be checking the manifolds. If it use to be a salt water boat, the risers could be leaking and fresh water is pooling in some of the cylinders when the boat sets. This would cause those cylinders to run dead for a while and cause the shake until they dried out. Water leaking past the rings would also account for the oil level being higher. If the starter was having a hard time spinning the engine, it would also be blamed on water in the cylinders causing a hydo lock. Now for the engine going dead, not caused by risers, could be several problems involved here. The ticking could be a sticking valve from water in the cylinders also.
Okay, finally got my boat checked out by another mechanic who is concurring with most of the posts on this board. The #2 plug wire is mis-firing. <br /><br />Now--get this. Apparently a lot of the work done by my previous mechanic is crap. They put the wrong wires and the rotten wood they replaced (that holds up my engine compartment) has become rotten again! Do you think I can get my $$ back on any of this? <br /><br />Please advise.
u probably won't get any $$$ back unless there's a warranty. when did u purchase the boat? dealer or private sale? either way don't count on it. the rotten stringers need to be addressed. the sooner the better. post back.
Well, I figure it's pretty much money lost. I wish there was a way just a find a guaranteed, good boat mechanic! <br /><br />There's no warrantly on the boat. I bought it from a dealership, but used. It's a 1994. Plus, I got the work done at another dealership/service. <br /><br />There's someone coming to my original dealership (where my boat is being serviced now) to look at the rot. He will give me an estimate.
I have a 260 hp i/o I winterized at marina, included, wash and block, oil change, winterize engine, battery storage and charge, storing outdrive, draining transom shower all about 1,400 bucks