Wiring problem

[Sixmark]

Re: Wiring problem

Do NOT use wire nuts in a boat! Replace them with proper connectors.

Exactly, save them for your house which doesn't bounce across the water at 40+MPH

 

[Fireman431]

Re: Wiring problem

Just another thought about the blowers constantly running. Do you have more than one blower switch? I have a blower switch in the panel (breaker box) and another on the fly bridge. If you have 2 switches and one of them is in the on position, they will never shut off. Just thinking out loud...

 

[Zamble]

Re: Wiring problem

Ok, so I spent 6 hours today trying to figure out my puzzle boat.

I disconnected the flying bridge port key switch, and the blowers started working down stairs. But ironically I reconnected them all and it still worked.... I did have a "foward blower" switch. It never worked before. It does now though. lol....

So I also had/have some other issues as well. My running light would not work right, they had no juice going to them. My anchor lights worked, though. So I monkeyed around and found out the fuse holders and fuse had a light build up on them. So I dremmeled them up and they all work properly. Question though. My anchor light up top has 2 lights. One foreward and one aft. When I turn on my running light the fore comes on with them. Is that proper?

And my final problem is when I thrun on my port key, none of my gauges work. When I turn on my top key, they do. But my low oil pressure lights do not come on, on each (top and bottom). Whereas my starboard light do. So tomorrow, I have to figure why my lower key will not power any of my gauges.

 

[LippCJ7]

Re: Wiring problem

Looks to me like you have a pretty serious corrosion issue and its probably reached a point where multiple resistive connections have created enough voltage drop to stop passing enough current to power circuits and now electricity is finding another way, I think that the best solution is to just start taking connections apart and clean them all(a daunting task to say the least).


Could be worse though I have 6 inches of snow on the ground and its still coming down.....

 

[Zamble]

Re: Wiring problem

Ok....

So apparently the problem was the starboard key switch. I tested it, and it tested good. The I was running a hotwire to the run position and then the gauges worked. The meter said 12.7 and then I rechecked in frustration later and then it showed, 0. So I replaced the key switch and everything worked except the oil pressure light. I replaced the bulb and nothing. It is just an on off sensor. Its on when the key switch is on, and off while it is running. Actually, I don't think the dashlights work either, I haven't been able to check in the dark.

Any suggestions on what would cause the dashlights not to work?

 

[Fireman431]

Re: Wiring problem

Most dash lights are fed off on one another and piggybacked down the line. Trace them back from one lamp to the next all the way to the dash light switch. Check for power feed to the switch. Check the fuses.

As far as your running lights. When underway, the only white light that should be lit is an aft facing 135? white light. Depending on the size and design of your boat (since it isn't listed...) you may be equipped with 1 (or 2) 225? white masthead lights. Therefore, your lighting may be correct. When at anchor, there should be 360? white light at the highest point on the boat. Here is a link. Review it if you want.

http://www.gosailing.info/Navigation%20Lights.htm

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Wiring problem

Loss of +12 volts or ground. Normally however, the internal gauge light grounds are shared with the gauge ground. That means if the gauge works but the light doesn't, either the bulb is bad or +12 volts from the NAV/ANC switch is missing. Sometmes the gauge lights are powered directly from the ignition switch so they would be on anytime the key is in the RUN position. Regardless -- if the gauge works the bulb is bad or +12 volts is missing.

 

[Fireman431]

Re: Wiring problem

To add to what Silvertip said, check to see if you have a separate "Dash Lights" switch. Check power to and from that as well.

 

[Zamble]

Re: Wiring problem

My dash lights are wired to the on position of the key switch. I still have not been able to check them when it was dark. But the low oil light is an on/off. The light only comes on when there is low pressure, ie engines off, keys on. It is not a gauge. I checked all the bulbs, and replaced the low oil one just to be safe, still no go. I was trying to find the ground for the light, but I couldn't. Tons of wires in the dash. Maybe the all the lights are not working. The low oil and the dash lights probably share a ground. They are daisychained together. I did remove the grounds off of the fuse board grounds side. Then I dremmeled them off and gave a nice shiny connection, but as stated before nada. Maybe there is another, or a main ground nearby suffering from some light corrosion...

As far as size, by boat is 28' and some change. When I toggle the running lights, a single forward facing white bulb comes on from the anchor light, both of the side markers come on, and one white on the transome comes on.
And when I toggle the anchor light, both the forward and rear facing bulbs on top of the flying bridge comes on.
I had a problem before with again, light (no pun intended) corrosion. But I replaced the panel and the wire connections.

 

[Zamble]

Re: Wiring problem

Is it safe to safe I can rule out the oil pressure sending unit for the lack of warning light?

 

[Zamble]

Re: Wiring problem

Ok, so I tested the lights. I grounded a probe and touch the ear on the side of the bulb and viola, light comes on. I tested the grounds in the first pic, and apparently it none of them. The same with the oil light. I grounded the side and it comes on.

 

[Zamble]

Re: Wiring problem

Anyone?

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Wiring problem

Without reading all 31 previous posts I will assume you are still chasing a non-functioning low oil pressure light. What you did for the other lights to make them work should also work for the oil pressure light. If it doesn't work, then +12 volts that feeds the bulb is missing, the bulb is bad, the sockiet is bad. Pull the wire off the switch and put a test light or ohm meter on the oil pressure switch. If the engine is not running the switch should be closed and the test light should light or the ohm meter should show continuity. If you can't find the oil pressure light wire under the console, check the color at the switch on the engine.

 

[Fireman431]

Re: Wiring problem

Remember, that oil pressure lamp won't light if it's not in it's metal housing (secured in the dash). That's where it gets it's ground to the bulb socket. Obviously, the bulb works. If you can't find the bad ground for the lights, run a new wire.

P.S. Your navigational/anchor lighting is correct.

 

[Zamble]

Re: Wiring problem

Thanks for replying fireman. When the light is plugged in, it still does not work.

I am having a problems finding the ground, where would the ground usually come from for the light on the dash? Can you see where in the pictures?

I am kinda of frustrated. I have this last issue, and now I had to switch tasks to fix my Suburban. My oil cooler in my radiator, and my engine decided to exchange their fluids with each other. The water pump decided to leak. And apparently the intake manifold gasket decided to go. So now I have to have this done in the next couple of day. We are leaving for Oregon next thursday.

 

[Fireman431]

Re: Wiring problem

Is the dash housing metal? If so, put a test light to it and it should light. If not, look to see where the ground wire is attached. Does the light go out once the engine is started (with your manual ground hooked to it)? If so, you may just get by quicker by running a new ground wire to the lamp from a known good ground.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Wiring problem

The outer shell of your gauges appear to be metal. That means the shell of the oil light makes contact with the shell of the gauge. Some lights have a plastic housing but there is a metal tab that makes the ground connection when the socket is plugged into the metal gauge housing. That means the shell of the gauge MUST be at ground potential. That means a ground wire must be attached to the shell of the gauge or the gauge itself will not work.

 

[Zamble]

Re: Wiring problem

Done. We went to Oregon last week and we got to finish the boat today. It's an amazing, the trip changing batteries can lead you on. So we check the oil sending unit. And it was the problem. I would have thought when the sensor went bad, it would have came on. What else would tell you of a problem? So I replaced it, and the dashlights and the oil light worked. Hopefully we can drop it in the water this weekend. The only thing left is finding a swim platform. I need to replace mine, it is just broken and old. I posted here asking for suggestions on where to find a replacement. It is unfixable. It is 99.5" x 18".