Re: Yamaha 200 HPDI Oil Reservoir & Steering
http://parts.yamaha-motor.com/scrip...\0012.TIF&ilSC=15&ilIV=0&ilBR=0&ilIF=G&ilRE=8 <br /><br />IRT oilers, I've learned a lot the last day and a half. I'm posting an answer to my first question as I believe this format would have been very helpful to me if someone had already posted something similar. First, copy all of the text above into you address bar so we can get on the same page.<br /><br />OK... Let's check this system out. First toggle part number 5 to check and see if your motor (26) runs. If it runs, you should hear a hum. If your motor runs, you should begin to see oil flow into the motors oil tank (1). If you motor runs and this isnt happening, I would venture to guess that the little filter (23) on the back side of the tank is clogged.<br /><br />OK
Lets say you got through that ok, but for some reason your remote tank (18) is not sending enough oil to the motors oil tank (1) when you are at full throttle. A possible reason for this is your sensor (2) has gone bad. I dont know what you call it, but I know how to check it now. This little do-hitchies job is to let the oil reservoir know when 1 needs oil from 18. If 1s tank is full, put your key in the ignition and turn it to on, but do not crank it. Pull up on 2 until you free it from the tank and lift it slowly from the housing. This will cause the unit to think that the oil is falling below a safe level and it should send a signal to 18 to pump more oil. Done correctly, oil should be flowing into the tank (1) from (18) once it is lifted high enough. If this didnt happen, number 2 may be just that. This unit (2) is supposed to check the level of oil in the tank when you first turn the key on and fill 1 to the proper level if it is not already there.<br /><br />OK
if we still havent solved our problem, lets get messy. Before you start, find a pair of forceps or vice grips and pinch the oil line to the motor off just after the junction nipple (29). Youll have three things to undo. The first one is the wiring harness. Just pull it apart and dont use the wires to do it. Second, remove the wire ties (31) holding the junction nipple (29) and disconnect the oil tank from the oil line to the motor. Third, Remove the tank from its holder by removing 37 and lifting the bracket. Lift your tank out as best you can.<br /><br />OK
lets check your motor (26) and since we have the tank out anyway lets clean it and change the filter. Before you start, put a soda bottle or something on the open end of the oil line to catch the oil in case the motor works. We can test the motor by disconnecting 31 from 32 by pulling the wires apart at the junction. You should have a brown (positive) wire and a blue (negative) wire. Using some scrape wire, connect these straight to a 12 volt battery and see if the motor runs. If its working properly and the filter isnt clogged, oil should be freely flowing. If the motor runs and nothing happens, youve probably got a clogged filter which is what Im sure most people will find the problem to be. To change the filter, clamp off 21 like you did the oil line before you began this. First, lets change that pesky little filter (23). You should be able to figure out how to remove it. Once removed, I use my air compressor to blow it out if its not clogged. I set my pressure at 25 PSI. If youre scared to do this, you can buy a new one for about $15 at your local marine dealer. I personally like to know I have a clean oil tank, so I drain it into one of those oil catcher things you can buy at Wal-Mart. Once Ive drained the whole thing, I pour about a cup of gasoline into the tank and swish it around until the bottom is spotless. Then I drain it all out. I wouldnt use anything but gas to clean the tank as once its diluted with the new oil. Ive heard too many people say just a tad of water in your oil will ruin your motor. NOTE: DO NOT RUN YOUR PUMP (26) UNTIL YOUVE REPLACED THE OIL TO DILUTE ANY REMAINING GAS. (This is a great mixture for killing that pesky grass that keeps trying to grow through your driveway) Put it all back together and you should be ready for the season.<br /><br />Part number 32 is easy to diagnose. If you keep running out of oil in the reservoir and you arent getting any warning, 32 is probably bad as its job is to check the level in the reservoir and let you know when its running low.<br /><br />My problem: believe it or not, the connection between 31 and 32 was loose, so it just depended on the day as to whether or not it would work. I found the problem when I went to check my pump motor (26). I hope this helps someone.<br /><br />Disclaimer: Im not a marine mechanic; the things Ive talked about here were discovered through trial and error and a little bit of critical thinking. I hope someone will get back to me on the maintenance of my steering system. I noticed a nut directly on top of my steering wheel that says oil. That gives me a clue, but what kind of oil do I need.
