Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

[Mark42]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Foam is getting on my nerves.....

Today I went out to the boat and was going to install a 3 way fuel valve. Want to mount it in the "front" face of the transom just above where the fuel filter is mounted. So I reach under the transom and find its solid foam. Crap! More cutting out foam to get clearance to mount the valve. Looks just like the other side where foam had to be cut to make space for the hoses and fuel fill. The problem with the foam is its hard to cut out! Its tough stuff.

So now a piece of foam about the size of two bricks needs to be cut out, and I have to do it laying on my back (makes me nauseous to work on my back with my hands over my face), then the residual foam sanded off the fiberglass, and then a block of pressure treated ply about 1" x 3x6 will be epoxied to the glass and the valve mounted through it.

Sometimes fabricating parts is fun, sometimes its a pain it the butt!

 

[Mark42]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Installed the gas gauge, bilge pump toggle switch and windshield wiper switch (the two chrome toggles on the right). Also the black toggle for the nav lights will be replaced with a heavy duty toggle like the others.

When I went to install the 3 way fuel valve, there was a big block of foam in the transom cap. Of course - nothing is easy on this project. Found a 3" hole saw made carving out the space much easier.

Trial fitting the valve and hoses. Its mounted on spacer made from two pieces of 1/2" PT ply. The hose on the right is the feed from the tank, the hose at the bottom goes to the filter, and the open barb on the left will connect to a standard Johnson male portable tank connector. So if a portable tank is connected, it too with go through the filter.

Here is the valve mounted; straight up is OFF, to the right is ON (main tank) to the left is ON (portable tank). That was a lot of time spent in a cramped space with foam dust falling in my face to get that stupid valve in. But I'm glad it's there.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Here is the plumbers strap I wrote about earlier. It was used to secure wiring and fuel lines to prevent rubbing and flopping around.

These wires and fuel hose will be behind the fuel tank, and hard to get to, so I wanted to make sure they were well secured.

And here you can see how tight the space is around the filter and splash well boot. Also used the plumbers strap to hole hose and wires secure here too. The grey cable on the transom is the bilge wires, the orange is the fuel sender, and the green in the ground/bonding wire.

No wonder I get craps working on this stuff. You gotta have no bones in your body to get in there to work.

 

[redfury]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

The work is worth the effort. You going to do something to prevent the fuel lines from rubbing on the bottom of the splash well? Doesn't look like a huge issue, but I'm sure vibration will eventually wear through the glass or the rubber.

 

[bear_69cuda]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Great work Mark,

Good idea with the hole saw!

I like how the fuel filter is mounted... No idea where mine even is?

Always enjoy stopping by and checking out progress!

Have an good night Sir!

 

[Mark42]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

The work is worth the effort. You going to do something to prevent the fuel lines from rubbing on the bottom of the splash well? Doesn't look like a huge issue, but I'm sure vibration will eventually wear through the glass or the rubber.

The fuel lines are secured to the transom about every 10 inches. I don't think they will be rubbing, but even if they do, this is the marine grade A1 hose, 5/16" ID, about 1 full inch OD. Its thick walled stuff. But I will double check to be sure. Maybe another support should be added between the ones in the pic? Thanks!

 

[redfury]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

I don't think the lines need more support, I'm sure they are rigid. It's probably my propensity to over engineer anyway The third picture in the first picture post is what I was talking about, where the splashwell could be contacting the hoses. My concern was the roughness of the fiberglass working its way eventually into the hose without it being noticed and having fumes build up in the bilge, but I can't really tell if it's even close enough that its actually touching, or even has a chance to vibrate against it.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

I don't think the lines need more support, I'm sure they are rigid. It's probably my propensity to over engineer anyway The third picture in the first picture post is what I was talking about, where the splashwell could be contacting the hoses. My concern was the roughness of the fiberglass working its way eventually into the hose without it being noticed and having fumes build up in the bilge, but I can't really tell if it's even close enough that its actually touching, or even has a chance to vibrate against it.

Yeah, I see what you mean. There are a few places where I was thinking about epoxying on a small piece of ply so another piece of plumbers strap could be screwed on because there was no good place to screw it on. After the tank goes back in and I do the final finishing length cuts and install the clamps it should be easy to see where another piece of strap should go.

And now the carpet is so dirty I want to rip it all out and start installing Nautoex Deco Dot vinyl. But I better wait until the hard top is finished, or I'll never get this boat out on the water this season.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

With a little luck, this weekend the battery will be installed and the fuel gauge, bilge pump, and nav lights tested. Hope none of the wires go up in smoke!

 

[redfury]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Good deal! I'm interested in the sea trials as to whether the hard top gives you any problems with the extra weight up there causing the boat to list more in the surf.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Good deal! I'm interested in the sea trials as to whether the hard top gives you any problems with the extra weight up there causing the boat to list more in the surf.

Thats one of my concerns too. The top without window glass now weighs 60lbs. I think I calculated that the new window glass will weigh less than the OEM windshield glass. So the net gain is about 50lbs. Thats not much, and only about half of that gain is above the height of the old windshield. The biggest impact will probably be from wind. With all that extra side surface, it will probably get pushed around more in the wind.

I can't wait to test it out!!!!

 

[Mark42]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Today I got a few hours work on the boat. Replaced the factory nav light switch with one that matches the new bilge pump and wiper switch. Also installed the thu-hull fitting for the bilge pump. Thats a tough space to get to. Had to take out a speaker, and reach through the speaker hole to tighten the nut on the fitting while holding the fitting so it won't rotate from the outside. I'm amazed I was able to do it!!!!

Here is the thru-hull. An Attwood piece, nice investment cast stainless steel. I know, it's not very exciting, but lets face it, some aspects of projects are rather mundane... At least this piece is nice and shiny!

 

[redfury]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Looks nice, even if it's mundane. I've got a couple of plastic drains that I'd like to replace with something a little sturdier, though these have lasted for 30 years, I guess I can't complain....the floor drain hole and exit for the front deck.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Looks nice, even if it's mundane. I've got a couple of plastic drains that I'd like to replace with something a little sturdier, though these have lasted for 30 years, I guess I can't complain....the floor drain hole and exit for the front deck.

Thanks for the comment!

Plastic parts, especially the glass reinforced and nylon parts seem to hold up well, even in full sun exposure. Its those darn UV's that do eventually take their toll. Hey, if they lasted 30 years, go for it again.

 

[jonesg]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Where are the fills if they are not on the outside?

on the top of the gunnel, with a small plastic molded well around it to catch the drops. Mine still has the original one from 1974. You may or may not catch static for your fill location, I could see their point if they make a stink though.

I'm following your project as I have to retank too.
I just picked up a 50 gal alum tank, only 6 months old for $100, craigslist strikes again. Guy told me the boat got crushed in the locks on the Charles river, he bought the totaled boat for the engine and is parting the rest out.

After looking at the price of a 50 gal Moeller it was a no brainer.!\
They're great but out of my reach. The moeller I wanted was $500+s&h !

I see the price of fill hose is high too and I need quite a bit as its a center console, I'm thinking 6 feet.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

on the top of the gunnel, with a small plastic molded well around it to catch the drops. Mine still has the original one from 1974. You may or may not catch static for your fill location, I could see their point if they make a stink though.

I'm following your project as I have to retank too.
I just picked up a 50 gal alum tank, only 6 months old for $100, craigslist strikes again. Guy told me the boat got crushed in the locks on the Charles river, he bought the totaled boat for the engine and is parting the rest out.

After looking at the price of a 50 gal Moeller it was a no brainer.!\
They're great but out of my reach. The moeller I wanted was $500+s&h !

I see the price of fill hose is high too and I need quite a bit as its a center console, I'm thinking 6 feet.

You got mail!

 

[Mark42]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Today I made the bilge pump connections. Used the clear plastic hose like a few other members here suggested. Just needed to use two 90* elbows to make it work with this boats odd fuel tank setup.

The wire connections are sealed with BoatLife sealer. Need idea on how to attach the wires to the gas tank. The tank plastic sure is slippery stuff. If I can't attach the wires to the tank, guess they will just get tucked down by the hose.

Here the hose makes the 90 bend around the corner of the tank and runs back to the transom, then up and out the thru-hull.

Looking up into the bottom of the transom cap. The hose just disappears off to the left into a totally blind area. That's where I had to make the thru-hull connection. I just had to feel around until I felt the thru-hull and push the hose on. Its a very tight fit. Took a while to work the hose all the way on.

Now that the bilge is squared away, I should work on the tank hold down strap. Maybe tomorrow.

 

[redfury]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Thankfully those bilge pumps don't push that much pressure that you had to secure the hose other than the barbs!

As far as getting something that will stick to that slick tank plastic, I could only guess other than to perhaps heat up a metal clip and imbed it into the plastic ( melt it in ), or you'd have to use an extremely aggressive glue/adhesive after scuffing it up with some emery cloth/sandpaper.

 

[Mark42]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Thankfully those bilge pumps don't push that much pressure that you had to secure the hose other than the barbs!

As far as getting something that will stick to that slick tank plastic, I could only guess other than to perhaps heat up a metal clip and imbed it into the plastic ( melt it in ), or you'd have to use an extremely aggressive glue/adhesive after scuffing it up with some emery cloth/sandpaper.

You're not kidding, those hose barb connections were really tight fitting. I was going to put clamps on them, but after fighting with them for a while I decided against it.

Gorilla glue might work, also epoxy. I find epoxy sticks to stuff you would think it shouldn't. Like the treads in my work boots are filled with epoxy from working on the hard top. Darn stuff won't come out!

 

[bear_69cuda]

Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

How about those wire zip-tie clips with the peel off sticker... You could add better adhesive.. Maybe rough up the surface a tad? Again great work Mark! What type of bilge pump you runnin? That's the wiring from Greg correct?