mercruiser 470 changed impeller, now boat won't shift

[olazabel]

OK. Thanks for your help

 

[Bt Doctur]

The drive should be a MC1 but that #6 will work just fine.

 

[olazabel]

No Title

Here's what it looks like. Not sure what that thing that looks like part of the bottom of an old sneaker is.

When we move the shift control (remote) back and forth nothing moves.

 

[olazabel]

No Title

 

[olazabel]

correction. the cable will move when the remote shifter is moved. It was all the way out. when i pushed it back in by hand and inserted the roller, then moved the shifter, it started to work......................... which i think is a good thing. right?

 

[ktbarrentine]

Yes...that is a good thing.... If the shifter moves the shift slide and the roller (making the upper shift shaft move), you are on your way to solving. Now can put the upper back on and see what happens.

Still should figure out why you were able to push the shift slide in by hand and then have it start "working" again. Your problem may well come back at a not so good a time.

Side note.... Looks like you have liquid in your bellows. Is it oil, or water? Need to fix that cause, too. May have a bad yoke shaft seal on the drive.

Second side note. The thing that looks like an old sneaker.... in your exhaust port? That is your exhaust shutter....(need to get that out). Probably damaged from a previous overheat. Need to fix that too (need to remove your exhaust boot inside the boat and check the shutter area).

 

[Bt Doctur]

 

[Bt Doctur]

click on the pic, after you hear the audio ,scroll down
Good for the movement but the roller cant just fall out from the slide

 

[olazabel]

the cable pushes the shifter out at least......

 

[olazabel]

Great video. Thanks.

I can pull the cable out and push it back in without the shift controller moving, I'm wondering if the cable is broken off in the sheath, and still working when it "pushes" but not when it "pulls"

But when I pull on it, it only moves out so far then stops and doesn't feel broken

If I apply slight pressure to the end of that shift fork thing, Then the shift controller seems to pull it back in

 

[Bt Doctur]

That has been known to happen, raise the housing up and watch the shift cable casing just after the boot. it should not move.
moving the slide is not possible with the cable connected inside the boat. If the slide moves the outer sheath is seperated

 

[olazabel]

ok. Found it. The cable is broken at the very end where it connects to what i believe is the shift interrupter. I unbolted the long black plastic connector on the end of the cable and it slid right off.

Any way to reconnect and adjust it, or I am going to have to replace the whole cable? (which i read requires some special tools and a lot of knowledge)

 

[Fishermark]

Any way to reconnect and adjust it, or I am going to have to replace the whole cable? (which i read requires some special tools and a lot of knowledge)

No special tools required, and just a little bit of knowledge.

The tools typically required would be the hinge pin tool - you can use a 1/2" allen wrench instead. The other tool is to screw the cable itself in. You can simply use a thin wall 9/16" socket - like a Craftsman 12 point deep well. You can screw out the long plastic tube and then screw it back in after replacing the cable. Sounds complicated, but is actually very straight forward.

 

[ktbarrentine]

No special tools required, and just a little bit of knowledge.

The tools typically required would be the hinge pin tool - you can use a 1/2" allen wrench instead. The other tool is to screw the cable itself in. You can simply use a thin wall 9/16" socket - like a Craftsman 12 point deep well. You can screw out the long plastic tube and then screw it back in after replacing the cable. Sounds complicated, but is actually very straight forward.

And is also explained nicely in the manual....

 

[Bt Doctur]

Check closely, it may have just come undone, there are 2 square screws that grip the cable core

 

[olazabel]

Thanks Doctur. - You may have just saved me $76. and a lot of time. I went and bought a new shift cable assembly, and then when I saw how it went together, figured I could just reattach the end to the old one

The cable did break, but It was probably only about 1/4" off the end. After some messing, I got the broken cable threaded through that long black plastic fitting and the screws reattached.

I hooked it back up and it seems to be working. I'll probably have to adjust it later.... but for now

I'm getting ready to reassemble the drive, and then if all is well I'll adjust the cable after that.

....And hope that the guys at the boat shop will let me return that cable

When I reassemble, is there anything special I need to do with the shift fork, and roller

I'm assuming I should have the shift shoe oriented staight ahead (forward) and the shifter in WOT forward when I try to put it back together........

 

[olazabel]

UPDATE-

I'm learning a helluva lot about my boat today. You guys have a wealth of knowledge.

So I got everything put back together, Filled the drive with oil, and tested it out. Reverse and neutral seem perfect, but Forward makes a clicking noise when I engage it like its not fully engaging

Not sure if that can be resolved by adjusting my now slightly shorter shift cable, or if I need to take the lower case off one more time and make sure the lower shift shaft is turned absolutely fully clockwise

I crawled under and looked up at the shift shoe with shifter in WOT forward. Its pointing almost straight forward but off by a few degrees

One more thing... If I put pressure on the shift shoe with my hand while turning the propeller it seems to engage the prop in forward more securely.

I'm going to search the manual for the lower shift cable adjustment procedure next, If i'm off track or missing something, please let me know.



Oh, and the amount of water the new impeller pumps is a night and day difference from the old, hopefully my overheating issues are resolved, Which was the original reason I got myself into this whole mess

 

[ktbarrentine]

Did you get that piece of shutter out of your exhaust port while you had the drive off? Hopefully you can get the cable adjusted.... Worst case, you can put in the new cable. Shifting issues on older boats are almost always due to worn out lower shift cables. Remember also that you need to do crisp shifts into fwd and reverse to get the "clunk" telling you the dogs are engaged.
What you might find by attempting adjustment to get forward is that you may well lose reverse. Gotta find the "sweet spot" (if there aint a sweet spot, then it is new cable time. Isn't this fun?

Also look in the "adults only" sticky at the top of this forum.... There is a shift cable adjustment guide in there somewhere, plus maybe a link to a "good" youtube video.

(I recommend going back through all the previous posts in this thread to see if you've covered everything.)

 

[Bt Doctur]

fwd gear is a pushing action and that 1/4 does matter. What you can do for now is remove that black end, pull the drive , pull the shift slide out with the old core , and replace it with the new core and shift slide if it slides in effortlessly!
If you didn't want to do that I could mail you an old core W/ slide on it.
What your location?

 

[olazabel]

KTB- I got the shutter out, and bought a new one today,but haven't installed it yet. You asked about the liquid in the bellows... it was a mixture of oil and water. mostly water. And I spun the "gimble" bearing while I was in there and it felt pretty worn, but spun easily. Lots of old worn out parts in there for sure.

As you guessed, after I tried to adjust the shift cable, I now have really solid forward, but now reverse kind of grinds and doesn't fully engage. Which is better I guess for the short term, but I'll probably be back at it soon, trying to find the elusive sweet spot which may not exist anymore on my shortened cable.

I did find good instructions in the manual #2 that you linked for me earlier