1961 Evinrude Starflite III start up issues

[kino986]

Hi, I am brand new to this forum coming across it trying to find info on my 75hp evinrude.
I can post pictures later. I got a 1961 MFG tri hull with the 61 startflite III motor equipped on the back end. I am the third owner of the boat as it came from a guy who purchased it off the original owner who was about 85 years old and lost his site, the second owner had it for a few years and now I am the new owner.

Ok, the motor seems to be fairly clean and does not look to be junked up, dirty or in bad shape. the gentleman I got it from had it running for me before I purchased the boat. Now its my turn to show this gem some love as they stated the motor was not designed for speed but I have second thoughts about that, I did not pick it up for a speed boat but 85% fishing and rest leisure activities.

So here we go, I had connected my battery and turned the key and all lights work and bull horn blows air. turn it over to see if I can get her running and she cranks over but is having issues firing up. I have tried a little mixed gas and starter fluid in the carbs and she fires up with ease and a few seconds cuts off.
I can sit and turn her over and she just cranks over but doesnt start up, she seems to only want to start when i give the carbs some fuel.

The other issue is the automatic choke, how does this choke work? does it start working as the engine is running and appropriates its position based on the temperature of the engine as it gets warm?

Can anyone give me some tips or pointers as to why she likes to cut off after she starts up, the guy i got it from indicated the issue could be caused from old gas?
the fuel is pumping correctly and does not appear to be fuel starvation. another guy told me that the starter may not be hitting or cranking 100% but from what I can see she seems to be hitting the sprocket just fine.

please help. please and thank you.

 

[Willyclay]

Welcome to the iboats.com forum! The members here are great and the experts can help you with any issues involving your boat, motor and trailer. I am not an expert as you can see from my signature statement but I will offer a few suggestions before other members post in your thread. Do Not Use Starter Fluid while trying to get that old beauty running. Use premix fuel only or you risk doing some serious damage because a two-stroke engine's lubrication is totally from the fuel mixture. On the subject of fuel, make sure you have fresh premix in your tank regardless of how old the previous owner said it was. The recommended fuel/oil mix ratio is 24:1 using TWC-3 outboard oil. Make sure the battery is fully charged before cranking. To get the best response from forum members, we need the model number of the motor to make sure we are all on the same page because there were two different ignition systems used on the early 1960's OMC V-4's, magneto and battery. IMHO if it acts like it wants to run when you spray premix into the carb throats, sounds like carb/choke issues. I will have to research your motor to see which style of choke was used as several different versions existed in that era. Do you have a service manual? If so, which one? That's enough for now. If you want to do a little research, search for threads started by member "yorab" who got heavily involved with an Evinrude 75HP V-4 from that year. Good luck!

 

[kino986]

Thank you willy, I will get the model number and get her drinking some fresh gas. So 24:1 mix ratio is what she needs? iv read that 50:1 also works but have not mixed a full 6 gallant tank yet. I really appreciate your response.
from what I have researched this engine seems to be a gem among owners who have them.
I do not have a service manual but in the hunt for a pdf ManuAL hopefully a fellow member might be able to help.

I just recently restored a 1968 sears roebuck 3.5 hp single cylinder outboard and that little dime ran like a whim. Actually I did a full restore on the internals aND put it up for sale and a mechanic purchased it off of me for a pretty high price for the fact that it was a classic.

I will get the model number as soon as I can for you guys
thanks for your help

 

[Chris1956]

Kino, Evinrude recommends a 24::1 gas to oil mixture for motors before 1964. Those automatic chokes often break or rust solid. I would therefore see if yours even works. A lot of those motors have a manual choke, and a hatch to access it. If your auto choke is bad, for the first start of the day, close the choke manually, start the motor and after she is warm, set the choke off. The motor should start fine the rest of the day without any choking.

 

[kino986]

I located the automatic choke and can move the lever from choke off to automatic choke on and manual choke positions, does not appear to be rusted or broken.
thank you for your response, it is greatly appreciated

 

[F_R]

The fact that it starts and dies when you squirt fuel in it is petty clear indication that either there is no gas getting to the carburetor, or the carburetor is dirty. The choke is operated by a bi-metal spring that closes it when cool, and is warmed by the cooling water to open it gradually as the motor warms up. In addition, there is a vacuum diaphragm that opens it part way as soon as the motor starts, to prevent over-rich/flooding. Most of them didn't work worth a hoot and people used the hand choke feature. Your motor should have the battery ignition system, that appears to be working, since it starts. You also have the 20 Amp alternator, with the regulator & diodes in the big junction box. Hopefully, it is all still there.

 

[Willyclay]

You are in good hands now with gurus like Chris1956 and F_R posting in your thread. I do not know of any online factory service manuals that cover your motor. However, the link below will get you to a Clymer manual that can be very helpful with basic info. I used the same manual when I had a 1962 Johnson 75HP V-4.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...line-service-info-not-just-for-boats?t=393281

Just follow the directions in the linked thread to LOGIN, then click on Small Engines, Marine/Boat Motors, Evinrude/Johnson, Outboard 4-Cylinder, 50-85HP (1958-1968), and, finally, Condensed Service Data.

 

[kino986]

Thanks guys I will upload pictures tomorrow, iv had it in the garage because of the weather aND it's pretty tight in there, I think I located the model number willy I'll have to go write it down.

New battery and fresh gas with a 24:1 mix, still cranking but no start. Did squirt mixed gas in the carbs and she wants to start up but dies like before.
I am now thinking the fuel is not feeding the carb like posted before. I am a little cautious about trying to get the carb off as I have no manual to follow.

Also the glass bulb under the carbs appears to have some orange junk inside, good or bad?

Again I really appreciate the help and I will get pictures up ASAP

 

[F_R]

Get your reproduced Factory Service manual right here at iboats
http://www.iboats.com/Evinrude-75-hp...view_id.439108

Make sure you are ordering for the correct model number, and note there are Owner's Manuals, Parts Manuals, and Service Manuals..

 

[kino986]

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s113.photobucket.com/user/ringmaster986/embed/slideshow/1961%20Evinrude%20Starflite%20III"></iframe>

 

[kino986]

Sorry guys the first link does not work and goes nowhere. here is the link to the pictures, hopefully you guys can access them. just copy and paste link into the URL

http://s113.photobucket.com/user/ringmaster986/library/1961 Evinrude Starflite III?sort=3&page=1

 

[F_R]

Nice looking motor. Sorry, I was wrong. You do NOT have the 20 Amp alternator or large junction box. In fact, you don't have any generator at all. You will have to use a battery charger. Your model number is 50931

 

[kino986]

Thank you, does the motor appear to be in decent shape for being vintage?
I apologize for the lack of experience on this type of motor but how difficult is it to take the carbs off to clean and rebuild? Should I take the fuel pump apart as well? And concerns with the strainer glass bulb?
I was given a same motor which is a 1962 for parts that I have tried using as a guide to pull the carbs off, was able to the the fuel pump off but got a little frustrated trying to get the carbs off due to the weight of the motor and not being able to mount in on a mount to upright it

 

[kino986]

I also got the guide reference from the link above and gave it a glance but still a little in the dark before I start pulling things apart, I am trying to be as patient as possible and do not want to rush things but would love to hear this old cat purr so I can tune her in idle

 

[Willyclay]

Also the glass bulb under the carbs appears to have some orange junk inside, good or bad?

Anything other than fuel in the glass bowl is bad! My guess is that is rust (orange) from inside a steel tank. Also, it appears that some PO wired an external coil to the magneto which came from the factory with an internal coil. The FAQ's in this forum has lots of good info if you have not already discovered it. Look for the thread about checking for proper spark before you start tearing into the carb. NOTE: The carb requires a special tool for re-centering the high-speed nozzles if you remove them. Ask me how I know that little factoid. Thanks for providing the model number. Very helpful. Good luck!

 

[F_R]

Yeah, how 'bout that car coil. I hadn't noticed that. It should work, if you remember that the motor will quit running if the battery discharges far enough (no charging system).

 

[kino986]

How do I obtain one of these tools because I really do not want to pay someone a bunch of money to work on it for me. Yes I have 4 steel 6 gallant tanks and rust makes complete sense.

 

[kino986]

If anyone local would be willing to come take a look at it, would be very appreciated.

 

[Willyclay]

F_R may be able to help you with acquiring that special tool as well as other secret stuff. PM him if he does not post in again. IMHO you should not use those steel tanks until you verify the insides are not all rusted up. I would purchase a new 3 or 6 gallon plastic tank while you are troubleshooting to ensure only premixed fuel is entering your motor's fuel system. After you get the motor in good running condition, you can work on the steel fuel tanks with something like POR-15 which is what the motorcycle guys use. I am sure some forum member close to you would be willing to help. Good luck!

 

[F_R]

No Title

I made a couple of those venture centering gauges a few years ago. You would have to pretty seriously want one if I were to make another ($). I suggest you just do not remove the high speed venture nozzles and hope for the best.