Cracked and soaked fiberglass motor mounts on Sea Ray 200cc

[bjf66]

ripazka

I started as a stringer repair, and then found I need to do the transom, so started on this first as needed to change the angle of transom due to the surface drive needing 0-10 degrees. original had plans of running a wedge
However this changed when the opportunity to rebuild transom came apparent...lucky me
So just to the point of laying up the transom skin
Due to changing the outer transom angle I started rebuilding transom from outside inwards
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...ding-and-hull-repair/10315514-stringer-repair

Hopefully I get some 2oz CSM and 17oz biaxial fabric over the complete outer transom today

 

[ripazka]

The key I have found is negative pressure in the garage. Keep the air pressure lower in the garage so the air is pulled from the house and not the opposite. Believe it or not, I've done all my layups in the closed garage which is below my house. I'm using polyester resin so I have plenty of stink. I vent from a window in my garage so the makeup air is pulled from the house. Trust me, you can't smell anything in the house. Works quite well.

I could use that system in summer but not now. My house is in negative pressure because of air ventilation (=I need to win that neg. pressure with those blowers), which means I would need big blowers, which means I suck alot freezing air in my garage. Which leads to 2 problems: heating bill and freezing problems. My garage is heated up with water circulation in the floor. I know there could be ways to tackle these problems but in the end I decided to spend 400$ more on Epoxy and dont mind about these at all. Epoxy is basically odourless and I've been so happy with it, I would choose it again.

 

[ripazka]

ripazka

I started as a stringer repair, and then found I need to do the transom, so started on this first as needed to change the angle of transom due to the surface drive needing 0-10 degrees. original had plans of running a wedge
However this changed when the opportunity to rebuild transom came apparent...lucky me
So just to the point of laying up the transom skin
Due to changing the outer transom angle I started rebuilding transom from outside inwards
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...tringer-repair

Hopefully I get some 2oz CSM and 17oz biaxial fabric over the complete outer transom today

Sounds a bit same as my boat. First I thought I need to do the motor mounts only and then slowly I started to understand I need to demolish that baby completely and then rebuild her.

I subscribed to your thread. You're on a same track as I am. Nice!

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I could use that system in summer but not now. My house is in negative pressure because of air ventilation (=I need to win that neg. pressure with those blowers), which means I would need big blowers, which means I suck alot freezing air in my garage. Which leads to 2 problems: heating bill and freezing problems. My garage is heated up with water circulation in the floor. I know there could be ways to tackle these problems but in the end I decided to spend 400$ more on Epoxy and dont mind about these at all. Epoxy is basically odourless and I've been so happy with it, I would choose it again.

Radiant heat in the floor of a garage.......nice. You don't hear of that very often. Not sure I heard of that at all.

 

[ripazka]

Radiant heat in the floor of a garage.......nice. You don't hear of that very often. Not sure I heard of that at all.

Its pretty common here in Finland. There is wireless thermosthats in everyroom and they control small automatic valves that control warm water flow in the floor. Advantage is that you can connect all kind of heat sources into it: oil, gas, electricity, air water pump etc etc

 

[ripazka]

No Title

Great progress today. Two bulkheads are waiting for the notches, then some minor tweaking (deck heigth) and Im ready for water proofing them. Thanks Chuck for the idea. I need to build extra support on the stringers when Im bedding them. they are not 100% straight without some help. The bulkheads also need some minor sawing but not that much.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Looks great!!

 

[ripazka]

No Title

One more bulkhead and some side supports. Then Im rdy for deck height. Im off for a week. I got a businnes trip. See you! Ps. this was the original lay up on Sea Ray but without those side wings that you can see now.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

One more bulkhead and some side supports. Then Im rdy for deck height. Im off for a week. I got a businnes trip. See you! Ps. this was the original lay up on Sea Ray but without those side wings that you can see now.

The Chap was the same as far as the extension of the bulkheads. On my Chap side extensions were scabbed in with 1/2" plywood and weren't very closely scribed to the hull lines. The definitely were not much in the way of latitudinal support. I built mine out of 3/4" closely scribed, and I can already feel the stiffness of the support.

Safe travels.

 

[ripazka]

No Title

Back in biz. Im nearly ready with cutting. Front section is pain in the a** because the hull is climbing in the cabin section a bit and the original stringers were not straight. Next time I will definitely choose 18mm plywood instead of 12mm so I dont have to fight with flexing so much. I chose 12mm because it was the same with original stringers and its 30% lighter than 18mm. As I said earlier, the hull will be more rigid anyway because I will add additional side wings and one additional bulkhead. Well the biggest challenges are now behind. I glued the drain pipe to hull and next I will bed the stringers. I will finish the deck height in the cabin section after tabbing (Im about 1/4" off now).

 

[sixt9stang]

When you have a chance can you post some pics of the drain pipe setup? Wondering if I should do something similar, if I actually decide to finish my boat.

 

[ripazka]

When you have a chance can you post some pics of the drain pipe setup? Wondering if I should do something similar, if I actually decide to finish my boat.

Yes of course. Although the setup is pretty boring because Im only draining the cabin section to bilge area and fuel tank area to bilge area. Im not building drain system from all the compartments but if you want to build something like that you will find them from the forum

 

[bjf66]

looking good

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Looking good man!! Love those stringers and bulkheads!!

 

[ripazka]

No Title

Drain pipe glassed in.

 

[ripazka]

No Title

I cleaned up the fuel tank with brake cleaner. Phew it was a huge task. Next: bedding the stringers.

 

[ripazka]

I cleaned up the fuel tank with brake cleaner. Phew it was a huge task. Next: bedding the stringers.

I wonder what happened on that weld section. Was the tank leaking back in history or what

 

[sixt9stang]

Did you drill some holes in the drain tube so that it can collect water from the entire run and bring it to the back?

 

[ripazka]

Did you drill some holes in the drain tube so that it can collect water from the entire run and bring it to the back?

No I did not. It just collects water from the cabin's floor which is lower than the deck itself. My compartments will be water tight so i dont need to drain them. Drain is kind of nice but it also can carry water to compartments. Eventually the closed cell PU foam can also start to suck water in as the foam cracks little by little over the years.

 

[ripazka]

No I did not. It just collects water from the cabin's floor which is lower than the deck itself. My compartments will be water tight so i dont need to drain them. Drain is kind of nice but it also can carry water to compartments. Eventually the closed cell PU foam can also start to suck water in as the foam cracks little by little over the years.

But there are multiple opinions on this subject. Its just something I personally chose