Adding tilt/trim to 91/92 Force 90

[The Force power]

Nope, just a realist when it comes to stuff with near zero parts support. I have an old Merc that I can get parts for (cheaply) that i will soon have up and running...... that is replacing an old Gale that I cant get parts for (at least cheap enough to make sense). The gale runs, however needs parts worth more than the motor is worth to be reliable.

when the part needed exceeds the value of the whole, I simply buy another $100 outboard

Your reasoning is not wrong, but a little strong & may not apply to all or his.
Advice is like an opinion; we all have one
Luckily we have this forum so we can come together to share

 

[Mickey13]

Well yeah, im picking up the harness tomorrow, thats really local about 30 minutes.

the guy with the bracket is sending the unit with his daughter and son in-law who live about an hour away., so maybe pick up this week or next weekend. he did send this picture of it. i decided to skip the 125 powerhead for now because he is close to 2 hours away with probably more than $40-50 in tolls.

had another 90 pop up today around 1 hr away (other direction, much less tolls too) and it looks a little newer than mine, saw it has block type lettering and the 2 blue ignition boxes in the picture. he is only looking $100, but cowl is broken, lower is short and fin is cracked but he has the controls. anyway i already agreed to buy the tilt trim from the first guy so im not going to back out, if i end up with the second one then yeah just more parts

as far as what i have, changed the solenoid and starter, same click sound when i turn the key, so i have to start diagnosis from step one. probably a wire or something but i'll start at the battery and work along. i'll be back if and when i get stumped lol. it was a bit windy today so i couldnt do much, tomorrow should be nicer.

 

[The Force power]

Well yeah, im picking up the harness tomorrow, thats really local about 30 minutes.

the guy with the bracket is sending the unit with his daughter and son in-law who live about an hour away., so maybe pick up this week or next weekend. he did send this picture of it. i decided to skip the 125 powerhead for now because he is close to 2 hours away with probably more than $40-50 in tolls.

had another 90 pop up today around 1 hr away (other direction, much less tolls too) and it looks a little newer than mine, saw it has block type lettering and the 2 blue ignition boxes in the picture. he is only looking $100, but cowl is broken, lower is short and fin is cracked but he has the controls. anyway i already agreed to buy the tilt trim from the first guy so im not going to back out, if i end up with the second one then yeah just more parts

as far as what i have, changed the solenoid and starter, same click sound when i turn the key, so i have to start diagnosis from step one. probably a wire or something but i'll start at the battery and work along. i'll be back if and when i get stumped lol. it was a bit windy today so i couldnt do much, tomorrow should be nicer.

I'm confused did you buy the motor in the pic. or is that the one you had?

 

[The Force power]

as far as what i have, changed the solenoid and starter, same click sound when i turn the key, so i have to start diagnosis from step one. probably a wire or something but i'll start at the battery and work along.


inspect the Battery- cables make sure all connections are free of corrosion & tied
pay special attention to your ground circuits

Jump the starter with Jumper-cables that will tell you; cable's/connection good or bad

 

[jerryjerry05]

Test light: someone on the key, tl at the starter lug on the solenoid, turn key.
If it lights the starters bad.
No light the solenoids bad.
Even a new solenoid or starter can be bad.

 

[The Force power]

Test light: someone on the key, tl at the starter lug on the solenoid, turn key.
If it lights the starters bad.
No light the solenoids bad.
Even a new solenoid or starter can be bad.

Good morning Jerry, :tea:

In addition of your instruction/test procedure, I'd like to add a word of caution ; that bad wiring or solenoid will light up a test-light but will not carry the amps required.
this may miss diagnose components

 

[Mickey13]

I'm confused did you buy the motor in the pic. or is that the one you had?

i am going to try to buy that motor in the picture. no response from seller yet.

 

[Mickey13]

inspect the Battery- cables make sure all connections are free of corrosion & tied
pay special attention to your ground circuits

Jump the starter with Jumper-cables that will tell you; cable's/connection good or bad

yeah, first thing i will do is run the battery to the auto parts store for testing

i am certain there are loose connections or a bad ground.

 

[The Force power]

I had to go back to your other post to see what motor you have and compare with the one in post #22 of this one
The one that you are about to buy is older & has a Prestolite ignition yours has a Merc. ignition.

 

[Mickey13]

Test light: someone on the key, tl at the starter lug on the solenoid, turn key.
If it lights the starters bad.
No light the solenoids bad.
Even a new solenoid or starter can be bad.

i jumped the old solenoid before and the old starter turned. i'll do the testing again starting at around 10 am today. have to go pick up that relay harness and then get the battery tested.

 

[Mickey13]

I had to go back to your other post to see what motor you have and compare with the one in post #22 of this one
The one that you are about to buy is older & has a Prestolite ignition yours has a Merc. ignition.

you are right, got a little confused. my mind slips a little at times.

 

[The Force power]

i jumped the old solenoid before and the old starter turned. i'll do the testing again starting at around 10 am today. have to go pick up that relay harness and then get the battery tested.

A weak battery is usually the culprit & causes a lot of ignition/spark issues

 

[The Force power]

you are right, got a little confused. my mind slips a little at times.

You could buy it but it would be a waste of the ignition parts & flywheel (if they're good) as you can't use any of it. unless you have the controls.
the remaining is interchangeable

 

[Mickey13]

A weak battery is usually the culprit & causes a lot of ignition/spark issues

what battery do you recommend if that is the issue?

 

[The Force power]

what battery do you recommend if that is the issue?

A good STARTING battery 700 CCA, NO deep cycle NO maintenance free (you have to be able to add distilled water from time to time)

 

[Mickey13]

battery is 100% its not deep cycle but its 500cca. should be good

 

[The Force power]

battery is 100% its not deep cycle but its 500cca. should be good

a 500 cca is slightly on the low side (in my opinion) and may cause grief due to the fact that she'll deplete quickly of her cranking amps.
But will be okay for testing starter circuit & such

 

[Mickey13]

rain and wind today, wasnt able to do anything out there. should be decent weather on Wednesday.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The dealer I worked for used 450cca on all the boats they sold.
Even the big block Fords got them.
If the charging system's working right there should be no way to deplete with normal use and running the
depth finder all day..
The sound systems that have all the power draining parts, they can deplete the battery.
When I bought the boat in 88 it came with 2 450ccas,I always had a second battery with a crossover switch and never once needed to switch because of a dead battery.
Later on after they died from age, I changed to a 1000cca. and a 500cca.as a backup.
It didn't matter what battery it was set on, both had enough juice to run the boat.

Deep cycle batteries: DO NOT USE as a starting battery.
They can hurt the charging system.
They need a separate charger/home system to keep them hot.

The batteries they sell these days, your lucky if you get 4 years from them.
The wifes Toyota, they last 2 1/2 years almost to the day

 

[Mickey13]

bump