5.0 mpi problems and help.

Jayo02

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Jun 22, 2020
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22
No items are grouped by system. Its pretty intuitive.

You have a rock solid engine. Water pump floppy vane failed and you repaired damage. Engine will live a long happy life. Solve this little bug and have fun.

thanks. I hope soon.
 

alldodge

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Mar 8, 2009
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Perhaps someone can clarify this for me so I can avoid another mistake. When the plug is at 12 o clock position in shop manual 31 it calls for the tang to point to the 6 in the housing. That 6 is roughly at 3 o’clock. My distributors tang is at 7 o’clock when pointed at 6 with the plug is at 12. Does this mean my distributor needs rebuilt? I didn’t mess with it and she ran great before all this. Also the scribe marks on shaft do not line up when pointed at the 6 in housing.

Your distributor is fine but your pointing the rotor at the wrong mark, look further toward the right side, ther is another mark and a slight flat spot, that is where it should point to
 

alldodge

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is there another blue wire other that the one associated with the 4 wire plug attached to the knock sensor ?

Looks like there is a odd even on your motor and not a single Blue

Odd wires are Black/Orange and Orange/Black
Even wires are Blue/Yellow and Yellow/Blue

The odd/even should be one on each side of the block
 

Jayo02

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Jun 22, 2020
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Your distributor is fine but your pointing the rotor at the wrong mark, look further toward the right side, ther is another mark and a slight flat spot, that is where it should point to

Ok. It is confusing because service manual 31 clearly shows it pointing to the “ 6 “. The other spot if I’m not mistaken is an 8. When I pulled the cap off at TDC It was pointed to the # 1 cylinder. Which tells me I had it in correctly the first time.
I Guess there in no real way to test the knock sensors without an oscilloscope?

was the blue wire attached to the knock sensor inside of the plug or in addition to the plug ? Right now I only have the wires that are inside that plug. There is a single blue wire in that Same area but I can’t tell what it’s hooked up to. Perhaps it became dislodged and that is what is causing my knock sensor alarm.
 

alldodge

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Other mark
Keep in mind, it only points to that location at #1 TDC
Click image for larger version  Name:	dizzy.jpg Views:	1 Size:	60.4 KB ID:	10887817
 

Jayo02

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Jun 22, 2020
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Is this a typo in manual #31 ? ( it clearly pointing to the “6” ) And in your opinion would this (improper base timing)cause a knock sensor alarm to put me into guardian ? Although like I said the tine was pointed at # 1 when at TDC. or should I just assume I fried the knock sensors along with everything else when I overheated ? Or maybe like Scott Danforth suggested my motor is toast altogether?

thanks for taking your time to help me.
 

alldodge

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If motor was at #1 TDC and the distributor was pointing at the other location it would not start. The way the cap is made the wires would go to other plugs, so back firing and such would be about it

The spark timing being that far off I guess could cause a knock error, but I really don't see how it would even run

Edit: unless the plug wires were rearranged to meet firing order and not how cap was marked
 

Jayo02

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Jun 22, 2020
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No. Pretty sure I had it correct the first time. I didn’t pay attention to the numbers on the housing the first go round. Just the orientation ( from 100 pics I took when disassembled) of the housing and making sure it was at TDC and pointing towards #1. She fired right up and sounded good. But the plugs did look like she was running a little rich. I wonder how much the knock sensors adjust the timing and if these are my problem or a symptom of the problem. I just hate to throw parts at it if it’s not the cause. New scanner will be here Thursday. Hope that will help tell me anything definitive. Thanks again.
 

Jayo02

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Jun 22, 2020
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Attempted to test the knock sensors today with a multi meter.
- hooked the positive and negative onto the two prongs inside the connector.
- set multi meter to lowest voltage setting and got a reading
- then tapped on the side of the block with volt meter hooked up and watched for change.
- then tested for continuity between the prongs.

Starboard side ( side that got hotter and blew head gasket) knock sensor had no change In voltage when tapped. It also had continuity.

the port side knock sensor had both a change in voltage when tapped and had no continuity.

I am going to assume that one of these is bad.

Which one ? 🤷🏼‍♂️

I am going to order both sides in hopes of fully solving this problem.
 

Searay205

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 27, 2018
Messages
471
wonder if you can just buy some for a car. probably super cheap. I would not do that for a starter or alternator!
 

Searay205

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May 27, 2018
Messages
471
[h=1]Duralast Knock Sensor SU154[/h]
4
(6)
4.0 out of 5 stars. 6 reviews
#SU154
Limited-Lifetime Warranty
check if this fits your vehicle
Notes: OEM #10456018, 10456288
$34.99
 

Jayo02

Cadet
Joined
Jun 22, 2020
Messages
22
[h=1]Duralast Knock Sensor SU154[/h]
4
(6)
4.0 out of 5 stars. 6 reviews
#SU154
Limited-Lifetime Warranty
check if this fits your vehicle
Notes: OEM #10456018, 10456288
$34.99

Damn. Already ordered OEM ones. $59 a piece.
 
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