82 Starcraft MR 180 floor, slight refit and leaks

[redneck joe]

Was it coosa 20 or 26? 26 claims to be a direct (and better) replacement. Also thought about upping to 3/4" since it is purportedly 30% lighter.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

I don't know, I didn't order it. 3/4 I think would actually be weaker because it's a higher ration of coosa to glass. If you want stronger, I would suggest getting thinner and laminating multiple layers together with glass to get your desired thickness.

It is very light, but not exactly budget friendly. Costs much more than plywood and you have extra glass, resin, and catalyst.

 

[redneck joe]

Found this. Overall leaning to mdo

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/964567-coosa-vs-plywood-test-added-marine-grade-plywood.html

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

Interesting. It makes sense that a thinner piece would be able to flex mor before breaking. I wish he did a test trying to pull the screw through too. That concerns me more than the flexing strength.

 

[redneck joe]

I wish he did a test trying to pull the screw through too. That concerns me more than the flexing strength.

Isn't that what post 3 and 4 are?

 

[redneck joe]

Here is another, ply wins flex (sorta) loses for impact I would call it a push

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

Isn't that what post 3 and 4 are?

My bad, I stopped scrolling at the first comment. I figured all his testing would be in the original post.

Note to self, learn to read.

 

[redneck joe]

My bad, I stopped scrolling at the first comment. I figured all his testing would be in the original post.

Note to self, learn to read.

Ha, welcome to my world.


I've decided to go with wood. If I needed stringers or transom work I believe my answer would be different.

 

[redneck joe]

All four sections of flooring cut and test fitted. In the garage in case it rains, old timers will commence.

 

[redneck joe]

Reading up on OTF and a couple questions.

Do I need to batch mix or will a full recipie store well, with no volatility like used rags?

On initial application, how will I know if the wood 'looks thirsty' for additional application?

For final three coats Mr Google tells me varnish or sometimes spar varnish or polyurethane or sometimes spar urethane but varnish and urethane are different so in his replies he suggests both to me. The below Pic shows specifics for initial recipies. Am I to use same minwax urethane for the (spar) varnish aka urethane for the finals?

 

[BWR1953]

Reading up on OTF and a couple questions.

Do I need to batch mix or will a full recipie store well, with no volatility like used rags?

On initial application, how will I know if the wood 'looks thirsty' for additional application?

For final three coats Mr Google tells me varnish or sometimes spar varnish or polyurethane or sometimes spar urethane but varnish and urethane are different so in his replies he suggests both to me. The below Pic shows specifics for initial recipies. Am I to use same minwax urethane for the (spar) varnish aka urethane for the finals?


View attachment 407600

For my Kingfisher, I made up a big batch and stored the leftover in a sealed container. I read somewhere that the sealed leftovers were good for a year.

In these two pix, you can see dry areas in the original application "looking thirsty" as the OTF was being applied. During application, you keep slathering it on until no more is quickly absorbed. Then you let it sit and let it soak awhile.
Application:



After soaking for 6 hours:


After letting it soak in, give a quick wipe with a rag, then apply a second coat. Keep applying coats until no more OTF soaks in. As I recall, it took about 4 coats for the Kingfisher.

I used spar varnish in the mix.