Trailer bearing blowout. Need help with repair(s)

[cyclops222]

When I bought the small trailer in 1981. I checked the bearings. Fine So I simply forced grease theu all the race rollers. Then filled the housing to the seal. Fille the cup also Checked them 20 years ago, Still full of grease no water yet.
Trailer is over sized for the boat. 65 mph on a 6 hour trip each year.
Amazing how not over loading a trailer extends useful life of everything.
Oh well.

 

[jlh3rd]

too many different subjects in this thread for me to list my opinions and stories. Suffice it to say maintenance is top priority. I haven't suffered a major failure, but I don't trailer long distances.
I like and do rely on my Karavan trailer's sure lube system. Wheels are spun once a year for looseness, noise, etc.
But have a question.
I also remove the hubs and spray down the drum brakes' internal parts and backing plate with liquid wrench (or similar). Of course, not the braking surfaces or the magnet (electric brakes). It is operated in brackish water now.
Seems to be working. thoughts?

 

[Lou C]

Liquid wrench is a solvent not really a rust proofing agent. I think there’s a company that makes galvanized electric drum brakes which would be ideal for some. I use galvanized drums on my trailer and due to the fact that my boat is moored during the season they last a long time. Only get dunked in salt water about 4 times per season. If you want to make them more rust resistant I might remove the shoes & spray the backing plates and springs/hardware with fluid film or similar coating. Or, you could paint the backing plates with a good rust inhibiting paint. But in my opinion any boat trailer brakes (if drums) should be fully galvanized with stainless steel springs. If you look they also make zinc coated drums, I have used these and they hold up well in salt water, better than non-stainless disc brakes do in fact.

 

[tphoyt]

I like CRC rust inhibitor. Fluid Film is pretty good as well. As with most things each has there place.

 

[jlh3rd]

Liquid wrench is a solvent not really a rust proofing agent. I think there’s a company that makes galvanized electric drum brakes which would be ideal for some. I use galvanized drums on my trailer and due to the fact that my boat is moored during the season they last a long time. Only get dunked in salt water about 4 times per season. If you want to make them more rust resistant I might remove the shoes & spray the backing plates and springs/hardware with fluid film or similar coating. Or, you could paint the backing plates with a good rust inhibiting paint. But in my opinion any boat trailer brakes (if drums) should be fully galvanized with stainless steel springs. If you look they also make zinc coated drums, I have used these and they hold up well in salt water, better than non-stainless disc brakes do in fact.

I like CRC rust inhibitor. Fluid Film is pretty good as well. As with most things each has there place.

thanks.....my brakes are 7" so I don't think there's individual parts for that....or specialized 7" brake assemblies.
CRC, will look at that.....

 

[jimmbo]

Galvanized Drums? Well they will look Prettier, but where the Braking Surfaces, will have the Plating removed, and therefore will still Corrode from Salt Water. Inspections would need to be More Diligent, as a shiny Outside, may lead some to think that the Braking Surfaces are Corrosion Free

 

[FLATHEAD]

I like and do rely on my Karavan trailer's sure lube system. Wheels are spun once a year for looseness, noise, etc.

I don’t like that sure lube system on my caravan trailer. It states to pump in new grease till old grease comes out the front around the bearing. I’ve blown out two seals doing as they say. Just using a hand pump grease gun. Last time I replaced the seals I just packed everything by hand and haven’t had an issue since. Just repack once a year.
I’m not impressed with my caravan for other reasons as well.

 

[JimS123]

I don’t like that sure lube system on my caravan trailer. It states to pump in new grease till old grease comes out the front around the bearing. I’ve blown out two seals doing as they say. Just using a hand pump grease gun. Last time I replaced the seals I just packed everything by hand and haven’t had an issue since. Just repack once a year.
I’m not impressed with my caravan for other reasons as well.

I have 2 Karavans. Both were private labeled Whaler and SeaRay and came with the boats. I think those sure lubes are the cat's meow.

So far combined I have lubed them 15 times combined. No blow out. The instructions say to rotate the wheel during the lube process. Maybe that was the key.

One thing I did was call Karavan with the VIN and ask what grease they used. In both cases I bought the same brand and product.

 

[cyclops222]

The excess grease should just oozzee out of the backing plate. Unless there was never any grease oozzeed out by the first installation. A dry seal would instantly melt away in first few miles.