82 Starcraft MR 180 floor, slight refit and leaks

redneck joe

redneck joe

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Was it coosa 20 or 26? 26 claims to be a direct (and better) replacement. Also thought about upping to 3/4" since it is purportedly 30% lighter.
 
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MikeSchinlaub

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I don't know, I didn't order it. 3/4 I think would actually be weaker because it's a higher ration of coosa to glass. If you want stronger, I would suggest getting thinner and laminating multiple layers together with glass to get your desired thickness.

It is very light, but not exactly budget friendly. Costs much more than plywood and you have extra glass, resin, and catalyst.
 
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MikeSchinlaub

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Interesting. It makes sense that a thinner piece would be able to flex mor before breaking. I wish he did a test trying to pull the screw through too. That concerns me more than the flexing strength.
 
redneck joe

redneck joe

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Here is another, ply wins flex (sorta) loses for impact I would call it a push

 
redneck joe

redneck joe

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MikeSchinlaub said:
My bad, I stopped scrolling at the first comment. I figured all his testing would be in the original post.

Note to self, learn to read.
Click to expand...
Ha, welcome to my world.


I've decided to go with wood. If I needed stringers or transom work I believe my answer would be different.
 
redneck joe

redneck joe

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Reading up on OTF and a couple questions.

Do I need to batch mix or will a full recipie store well, with no volatility like used rags?

On initial application, how will I know if the wood 'looks thirsty' for additional application?

For final three coats Mr Google tells me varnish or sometimes spar varnish or polyurethane or sometimes spar urethane but varnish and urethane are different so in his replies he suggests both to me. The below Pic shows specifics for initial recipies. Am I to use same minwax urethane for the (spar) varnish aka urethane for the finals?


1746876278113.jpeg
 
BWR1953

BWR1953

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redneck joe said:
Reading up on OTF and a couple questions.

Do I need to batch mix or will a full recipie store well, with no volatility like used rags?

On initial application, how will I know if the wood 'looks thirsty' for additional application?

For final three coats Mr Google tells me varnish or sometimes spar varnish or polyurethane or sometimes spar urethane but varnish and urethane are different so in his replies he suggests both to me. The below Pic shows specifics for initial recipies. Am I to use same minwax urethane for the (spar) varnish aka urethane for the finals?


View attachment 407600
Click to expand...

For my Kingfisher, I made up a big batch and stored the leftover in a sealed container. I read somewhere that the sealed leftovers were good for a year.

In these two pix, you can see dry areas in the original application "looking thirsty" as the OTF was being applied. During application, you keep slathering it on until no more is quickly absorbed. Then you let it sit and let it soak awhile.
Application:
3.jpg


After soaking for 6 hours:
2.jpg

After letting it soak in, give a quick wipe with a rag, then apply a second coat. Keep applying coats until no more OTF soaks in. As I recall, it took about 4 coats for the Kingfisher.

I used spar varnish in the mix.
 
redneck joe

redneck joe

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So Mr Google tells me this, thinking varnish is the way to go at least in the mix because it penetrates?

The key difference between urethane (or polyurethane) and varnish lies in their composition and how they interact with wood. Urethane, a type of plastic, sits on top of the wood, forming a durable, protective shell. Varnish, typically a mix of oils and resins, penetrates the wood and bonds with it, offering a more flexible and water-resistant finish, especially when used in exterior applications.
 
BWR1953

BWR1953

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redneck joe said:
Bwr, iirc your kingfisher was a 14 footer. How much recipie did you use?
Click to expand...
My KF was 16 feet. I had to order another quart of Gluvit because I coated both top and bottom of each deck piece, plus the transom. One batch wasn't enough.
 
redneck joe

redneck joe

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ok, i knew you were a freak for the pink board but the gluvit on the wood would have elevated you to a new as yet undefined category...
 
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