Thanks for that info. So just to be clear, you can't simply disconnect or remove the CD unit and expect the engine to run? Unless you do the mods you mentioned? I mean no disrespect to WinnerCougar74.....just trying to learn about these systems.
Yeah, a new prop or some other part could easily cost more than what the engine is worth........but considering what a new motor costs, it might be worth it.
Marineengine.com shows the 8 HP from 1976-1979. They have the prop for the first 2 years, but not the last 2. If you run the part numbers on ebay they show some for '78 and '79. Depends on model number.
Agreed.......If I could go back in time I would buy a brand new one (either Chrysler or Force) in a heartbeat! Except for the Hell Drive or the single carb 70 Hp........(y)
Best to have engine all the way down when trailering, if possible. If not, support it with a transom saver or similar. With it tilted up and not supported, it puts a lot of fore and aft flexing on the transom.
I mounted the new VR in the same spot as the original rectifier.....which is on the starter bracket which is out away from the engine block, so not directly in contact with the block heat.....which really doesn't get that hot anyway. Not sure how the rectifier on your Force 120 is mounted but...
I used one of these on mine. Has worked very well at taming the high voltages I was getting. Less than $40......
https://www.mfgsupply.com/snowmobile/snowel/snowregs/01-090-1.html