Greetings,
Have you Googled?
Lots of places that sell marine vinyl. I generally prefer Nautolex, Boltaflex, or Morbern brand vinyls. Look for about 20 oz/ sq yard weight.
You will find as you proceed that Bayliners were not well made in that era and much of the wood structure was minimally coated with resin/glass/gelcoat. The boat was intended to last about 15 years, so you get the idea of it being past its intended life.
Since it is a cruiser (rather than a...
Following . . .
Not much about the structure of the boat (yet) . . . Is that part of the plan? I would suspect you will find a bunch of the structure that needs attention.
So, the 'compass' within the smartcraft (or whatever) does not like bouncy rides. 1-2 foot seas is about all that it can take. Any more (which is most times) it has a compass warning that clears as soon as we get to calmer waters.
The shift plate is slightly different, but the mechanism looks the same as the link you posted.
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The engine manual is fairly brief about the actuator, etc.
Yes, it seems that the more recent versions of Mercury/Mercruiser stuff is not as well documented (yet) vs. the 20 year old stuff. I might check the Merc website to see if there is some newer versions (although I'd have to pay for them).
As far as the exhaust manifolds . . . you said you inspected and replaced the gaskets. Were that mating surfaces of manifold/riser in good condition or deteriorated?
Left hand spark plugs as in 'port' side of engine (so cylinders 1,3,5,7)?
A crack in the manifold or a blown head gasket could...
Not much in the manual . . . I did come across something that said there was no adjustment (just can't remember exactly where). I think my next steps are to see if the actuator throw is the same for both engines and then if that all checks out maybe pull the boat to check the lower cable, etc...
I don't have the DTS manual and my engine manual really does not show much as far as shifting.
We were out in the boat and I paid additional attention to the port engine shifting. It seems to go 'softly' into gear with slight boat movement, but the thrust does not increase with corresponding...
I'm also wondering about the method for checking the actuator movement. Not sure if it will work with just the ignition on, but engines not running.
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Shift with the engines running and turn the engines off while in gear.
Of course, this all explains while I have been such a...
Thanks guys. I suppose I need to buy the bravo shift tool (gauge thingy). I'll see if the actuator 'throw' is the same for both engines.
The slow shift is only in forward on the port drive, which suggest it being the clutch rather than the adjustment.
BTDT on my previous boat.
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These...
Greetings,
In follow up to my Axius Joystick Calibration thread (which actually seems fine), I have discovered that the port outdrive has 'delayed' shifting and does not go into gear at idle, but rather takes a but of throttle (1,000 RPM +/-) to engage.
My first order of business is to check...
Quick Update . . .
I was able to verify a delayed shifting of the Port outdrive. It does not like to go into forward gear unless the rev's get up to about 1,000. It goes into reverse just fine.
So, the maneuvers that work with the joystick are the ones that require port reverse, which is yaw...
The starboard engine keeps finding things to complain about . . .
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Not sure what or why . . . but after reaching the harbor the warning went away and the engine status when back to OK all by itself.
I was out in the bay (went to get fuel) and maybe the starboard engine thought we were...
The voltages sound low. A battery, in good condition and 'at rest' should read about 12.6 volts. With the engine running (i.e. alternator charging) the voltages should be in the 13.5 - 14.5 range.
You may get some voltage loss at the helm, but 1+ volts seems excessive. It may be time to...
As you probably know by now . . . the dry joint manifold/riser sets that you have are not likely to leak water into the exhaust chamber (thus the term 'dry joint').
Nice job in cleaning them up. The only other thing (chemical) I would recommend for cleaning up the rust is oxallic acid (wood...
