Most manufacturers are switching from I/O's to Outboards for trailerable boats. For some, its their only offering in the 18-23' class.
With the lower center of gravity, the I/O's tend to deal with waves a bit better, at least in my experience. However, in terms of ease of maintenance, its hard...
I'm calling it vaporware for now until there's an actual review...or find one on a showroom floor to lay hands on.
Only thing we've seen is BRP's PR machine pumping out videos for the 3 brands that will initially be built with the new rotax engine....yeah, yeah, reworked Evinrude G2.
BUT....it's not fish safe. It's going in a livewell that's going to be used as one.
OP needs something non-toxic to fish. Gotta look in the Pond/Aquarium supplies for that.
Ohh where's your sense of adventure?
Loose the sunpad, toss a massive supercharger up through there along with a bunch of exhaust pipes. Let the other boaters know you don't give a darn about their tree hugging by announcing your presence on the lake with loads of V8 goodness :ROFLMAO...
That's metal...I'd just use some roll on bedliner and be done with it. Or aersol cans...your call.
Want a contrasting color other than black, look at Durabak as they sell it in small quantities.
I've often been told that the local LEO's won't know the difference between 8'6" and 9' wide...or be that obvious that they'll pull you over. I'd be more concerned with height than anything.
That being said, I wouldn't personally risk it cause with my luck, I'll be that guy constantly donating...
Local tire shop had PowerKing Trailer King RST available in a E load rating. Got 3 - 2 main and 1 spare. Had em for the season and so far no issues. I replace the tires every 3-5 years, even if they don't look like they need it.
https://www.thepondguy.com/product/pond-armor-pond-shield-non-toxic-epoxy-liner-one-and-a-half-quart/?sku=170122%20SKY%20BLUE&p=PPCGSHOP&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7--YzePz-QIVDbbICh09sQQgEAQYASABEgIMAfD_BwE
Fish safe epoxy, sticks to plastic. Ain't cheap though.
It's really not all that much more work since you're replacing the stringers already forward of the engine bay, Do it all at once - ACX plywood cut to size. One and done.
I wouldn't do it one way in front and another in back - seems like a recipe for problems.
Umm define good.
Will it move with that load...yes. Will it plane...doubtful. Will it break any speed records...not likely.
Rule of thumb has been 75-80% of factory rated HP as a minimum. So I'd be looking in the 50 & up class.
Here's the specs from the manufacturer...
https://letsgoaero.com/silent-hitch-pin-5-8-press-on-locking-anti-rattle-pin-for-2-hitches/
Says up to 12000 lbs, class IV rated.
Received it last night. The spring has plenty of tension to keep the assembly in the hitch drawbar - I don't see it...
That has more room than I do in mine.
Realistically, marinas work on boats like this all the time and probably have a process/procedure for almost everything. If not, they have the tools to pop the engine out/in....just gonna be a cost of owning the boat.
I'd be more concerned with...
Mine came with a Promariner Prosport 12 - 2 banks. Hooked to starting battery and trolling motor battery.
Which reminds me...I need to plug the boat in when I get home.
I'm just thinking about all the batteries, electronics, motors, etc that just got dunked. And not like you went through a puddle and its done/over - this is a pretty good drenching as it takes them a good long time to retrieve the boat.
https://www.americanfloormats.com/non-slip-duragrid-drainage-mats/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx__OpPDs-QIVc-W1Ch2Z1gO7EAQYAyABEgJq9_D_BwE
$3.95 for a 12"x12" tile. Hard to beat that. Cut it to size as needed.
https://www.iboats.com/shop/searchrabbit/result/?q=fuel+tank+sending+units
Do it yourself for a lot less.
OR....every couple of hours stop for fuel. Don't need to fix it then...cost is $0 in parts/labor.
