Far out
No need for apologies. I respect your right to have and express an opinion along with my right to disagree with it and vice versa. Its one part of what makes us human and I feel that is much more important than testing alternator output and what makes this public forum interesting...
Don't do this.
Causes a pretty serious risk of damaging the regulator in the alternator along with other electrical components
Do clean the battery connections and any other you can see and use a voltmeter. Check the voltage of the battery prior to running the engine. Start and run the engine...
This is not true
Some newer smartcraft equipped engines will sound an audible alarm and set a fault code but will not prevent the engine from turning over/starting if the drive is tilted up
No need to worry about lead additives, you can use one if you want but there's not much/any need for it. 91 (supreme) E10 will be fine, not a terrible idea to toss some fuel stabilizer in it with each fill up if it's a while between uses
Probably a good idea for a full fuel system inspection...
Thermostat has nothing to do with fuel/ignition system and wouldn't cause the engine to bog out and die. That would only happen under severe overheat and at that point you'd have much bigger problems
If you're getting three good blasts from the accelerator pump after the motor dies it sounds...
The older style alpha trim pumps also have a reservoir, just not as obvious as the latest style. The fill plug is a large slotted head screw, some of which have a dipstick attached
With the drive in the full down/in position fill the reservoir with 10-30 motor oil, replace the cap and operate...
Based on your provided info/testing it seems you've ruled out fuel supply as the issue. The issue most likely is ignition related
No mention of spark plug age/type nor mention of timing check/adjustment
As mentioned earlier your easiest route is bringing the current cushions to a local marine upholstery shop. They will most likely make new ones of better quality than yours originally were, but you'll pay handsomely for them
My guess is it may work okay if you can find the right size and it doesn't interfere with any of the other transom assy components
Caveat may be louder exhaust noise and chance of sooting the transom
You could also abate the flappers, keep the bellows in place and operate the boat knowing the...
Mercury part number 32-99904Q. Hose - Trim Cylinder to Connector (Stbd Up Pressure)
The down hose is one of two different styles depending on trim cylinder tube length
Main oil filter adapter uses 5/16" bolts however 26-30 lb/ft sounds a bit much for that application. Iirc the spec for those bolts is around 10-15 lb/ft. The adapter is aluminum so no need to get crazy tight as damage may occur
The remote adapter pictured takes the place of a spin on oil filter...
Yes, the anode stud bolt goes through the transom and has a nut holding it in place at the inner transom plate
They are a high risk component of the transom assy for corrosion/leaks. If one/both rotates with anode removal/install it's possible there has been water intrusion/transom integrity...
1990 Maxum "?". Not too keen on how Maxum designated their boats, guessing mostly by length and an alpha numeric system based on options particular to a series of models.
It's not too important to know the model of your Maxum as they are no longer manufactured and you'll get zero support from...
Tinned copper wire is the best for use with exposure to the elements, especially water
It is more expensive than regular copper strand but when you need it to work there's no point skimping on quality. Tough doing a job twice
Verify the water separating fuel filter is full and void of anything but fresh fuel.
Verify the carburetor/fuel injectors are supplying fuel to the engine.
Verify the ignition system is sound through a visual inspection of the components and with a spark test at the coil/plugs
Verify the...
