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    4.3 Mercruiser MPI Chugging/Surging and Beeping during turns/Waves

    How about anti siphon valve or fuel tank pickup? O2 sensor may indicate this is an EC motor?
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    Spark plug cross reference question

    Pretty sure your motor takes the ac delco MR43LTS spark plug. Not sure what it crosses to ngk If you post a serial/model number folks here have access to volvo info and can steer you right
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    No power at dash

    Sounds like you're missing either a ground or positive lead at the battery. Being a sea ray there's a possibility there's a breaker in line to the dash/fuse panel power If all is connected and no breaker present/breaker okay I'd check the voltage at both sides of the 50 Amp breaker on the...
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    Oil pressure

    When you did the fuel/ignition swap did you install/connect the audio warning system, specifically the oil pressure switch?
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    trouble getting reverse.

    Pretty sure this was covered earlier in the thread The sea water pump in the drive (your defintion: bottom end) does not "go through" anywhere. The water passage hose in the transom assy has been cut off so the water from the pump simply dumps right back into the water outside the boat
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    trouble getting reverse.

    The cable routing through the transom assy up to the shift plate is specific. It needs to be routed correctly. If not properly routed it can be destroyed rather quickly from the coupler wearing on it or if bent too sharply it can fail prematurely
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    LiFePO Batteries ???

    My go to is if fuel economy is a concern for you then boating is not your hobby Guessing with twins and an inverter your boat is in at least the 30-40 foot class so 364 lbs (average weight of 2-3 adults) is a drop in a bucket comparatively. You will notice little to zero change in fuel...
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    4.3 Mercruiser MPI Chugging/Surging and Beeping during turns/Waves

    Need to connect a diagnostic tool to determine what the fault/beep is. Being mpi the fault should be stored What is the serial number of your engine?
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    does anyone know?

    Apologies for the rant, sunray. These posts are often used for reference/posterity so misinformation only fuels mistakes/unnecessary repairs In your case you are not dealing with any through hull fittings so bronze shouldn't be an option. Brass, as suggested by Bondo and based on my...
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    trouble getting reverse.

    When I do a full bellows job on an alpha style transom assy I attach everything save for the exhaust bellows on the bell housing prior to installing the housing in place U joint bellows, water passage hose, gear lube line (gen 2 only) and the shift cable. The shift cable is much easier to...
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    does anyone know?

    Far out, read the first line of my post #24 I don't read any argument of your post in regards to anything installed on engines/accessories Let's go one step further and demand all engine blocks/manifolds that use raw water for cooling must be bronze and not cast iron
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    Thunderbolt V doesn’t advance timing

    If you can source a mercury manual #24 it covers the t bolt 5 ignition system. Other than replacing the ignition sensor with a new oem I can't think of any other component aside from the module itself causing the issue
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    Thunderbolt V doesn’t advance timing

    Don't know if the temp sensor will retard timing but the knock sensor is designed to retard timing if activated Would guess if the knock sensor is faulty it may be constantly allowing the module to retard timing. Maybe disconnect the knock sensor and see if timing advances properly? FYI it's...
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    does anyone know?

    Bronze on any through hull fitting that is below the water line On engines and accessories dealing with raw water delivery after it has passed through the hull brass is acceptable. Have you ever worked on current/vintage marine engines? Quite a bit of brass fittings are installed oem
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    does anyone know?

    Agree w/Bondo, use brass 1/4 pipe plugs in the block and manifolds. If you have access chase the threads in the block/manifolds. Perfect seal or a quality gasket sealer on the plug threads going in helps prevent corrosion and makes annual removal much easier. Don't install too tight, just...
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    Volvo Outdrive I.D.

    The stub shaft bearings are plain old roller bearings, not gimbal bearings. Most V-6/V-8 engine/drive packages of your vintage use two bearings. One fore and one aft on the stub shaft between the drive u joints and the engine. Only way to remove the forward bearing is to pull the engine...
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    3.0l Alpha 1 Gen 2 low speed overheat

    Most trailers can be easily adjusted to fit a range of boat lengths. Given how small your boat is you probably wouldn't even need to adjust as long as you use the right size trailer. Bunk trailers are the best, avoid using a roller trailer, they need to be set pretty precisely to fit a boat...
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    What Bearing Puller?

    This is what I use. Need to clamp the top cap in a vise with rags as not to damage the finish Get a slide hammer with multiple jaws, need to be smaller/modified to fit under the race securely. Shims can be damaged on removal so be prepared to replace one or more
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    Whine sound coming from the fuel pumps?

    What is the high/low fuel pump pressures?
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    spring vapor lock?

    At this point you've got nothing to lose by removing and disassembling the carb. If it's clean/operational inside parts are readily available for rebuild/updating Mikes carburetors has a full selection of marine carb kits, parts and new electric choke assemblies
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