Search results

  1. tpenfield

    Bravo 3 Driveshaft Oil Seal

    Here are the guts, in case you have not taken the top end apart before . . . . . If you are having any problems with delayed shifting, now would be a good time to lightly de-glaze the clutch gear cups.
  2. tpenfield

    Bravo 3 Driveshaft Oil Seal

    Get the rolling torque wrench, else you will have trouble getting the torque correct. If you over torque it, you will have to dis-assemble & re-assemble. Also, a trick for getting the retainer nut torque correct is to mark a line for the housing to the nut before you loosen it. Then on the...
  3. tpenfield

    I Got Me a Mercury !!!

    I found that document that shows the connections, how to test, etc. My understanding is that there is a base plate (usually red in color) that has some electronics embedded into it. If those fail, it can be a show stopper.
  4. tpenfield

    Ujoints clunking?

    As stated, probably u-joints . . . Shop around for good quality at a good price. Many automotive style do not have the larger bearing surfaces, so they are not as strong and will wear out faster. Here is a link to me replacing my Bravo 3 u-joints . . ...
  5. tpenfield

    I Got Me a Mercury !!!

    Thanks @nola mike . . . The engine has what is known as a 'phase maker' ignition, which I believe was a lead-in to the electronic ignitions. Basically the stator creates fairly high voltage and instead of 'breaker points' to fire a spark, it uses the opposite 'maker points'. I'll be going...
  6. tpenfield

    Mercury Tillotson Carburetor question

    Greetings, This may be a question for @racerone and maybe a few others. In my quest for Mercury 7.5 / 9.8 engines, I have come across a couple that have "missing parts" on the carburetors. It looks like complete carburetors (1364-7902, 7909 and similar) are NLA. Carbs were either Tillotson...
  7. tpenfield

    Loosing Faith in Humanity . . .

    I am all set, but thank you . . . I have a LU and a prop.
  8. tpenfield

    1973 Merc 75 Impeller Pickup Tube

    I see that it is into the housing, just below the impeller 'cup'. So the impeller is probably free to spin, but with this picture, you can see that the gap between where the copper tube ends and the pump housing is very small, and probably the source of your restriction.
  9. tpenfield

    1973 Merc 75 Impeller Pickup Tube

    You picture is a little hard to see the detail, but if the copper tube is protruding into the impeller cavity, then yes the tube is not correct. It may be a matter of fitting it properly, or the tube might need a slight trim. There is a bit of guesswork with used motors, because you never...
  10. tpenfield

    1973 Merc 75 Impeller Pickup Tube

    The area where the impeller spins should be clear and unobstructed. One additional thing to check is that the metal 'cup' and 'top plate' of the pump have the positioning tabs and that they are in the proper locations, as that will be a factor on the impeller's ability to pump water. One thing...
  11. tpenfield

    Loosing Faith in Humanity . . .

    I got a bunch of stuff going on eBay in the next week or 2 . . . So, we will see how humanity goes. The thing I like about eBay is that either they buy it or they don't . . . not as much back & forth like FB Mkt place.
  12. tpenfield

    1973 Merc 75 Impeller Pickup Tube

    The copper tube going into the pump housing needs that black rubber insert . if the engine has over heated, there is a plastic washer up at where the upper copper tube attaches to the power head that can melt, causing restricted water flow. that might be something to check.
  13. tpenfield

    Any reason I couldn't run the engine without the drive attached?

    I’ve run my engines without the drives. Just a matter of making sure you are getting water to the raw water pump. I prefer to do compression tests without the drives, and run the engines to get them warmed up.
  14. tpenfield

    Loosing Faith in Humanity . . .

    OMG . . .
  15. tpenfield

    Off shore customer service frustration.

    I’ve had some good customer service experiences recently. Some are still awaiting final outcome , but the responsiveness has been good.
  16. tpenfield

    Going rate on a good running 15hp?

    IMO, based on recent motor searching . . . good working condition $400-500 . . . . Needing some work $300-350
  17. tpenfield

    I know this will sound foolish, but hear me out please

    @Bradmxz . . . There are a few threads (here on iBoats and elsewhere) about converting a Bowrider (or runabout) to a center console. Most seem to die on the vine, but you could check them out (Google) as they may provide some insight and ideas.
  18. tpenfield

    I know this will sound foolish, but hear me out please

    I DIY'd an extended swim platform for my previous boat . . . $3K From a shop or the factory would have been $7K. On the other hand, I think that if I DIY'd stuff that I'm not good at, the opposite would be true. :ROFLMAO:
  19. tpenfield

    I Got Me a Mercury !!!

    I'm on my way to CA and will be there for 2 weeks. Plenty of time to read up on 'Phase Maker' ignition systems, which I believe is what Mercury has in these early-1970's motors. :unsure:
  20. tpenfield

    I Got Me a Mercury !!!

    My game plan for the Blue Merc is to pop the flywheel off and go through the ignition stator wiring, replacing sections of wire as needed. Since the motor actually worked for me on several occasions, I am thinking that the problem may be with connections vs. bad coils.
Top