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Yes, but I'm not sure they did . . . I would have pulled the spark plugs and tried to get it to turn over. I think a shop would just go for a new powerhead @ abut $25K if you can get them.
The boat is with a local marina now and they are going through it. I'm not sure what the cost (or feasibility) to fix something like this would be, but it is the sort of thing that the boat may never be right.
Thanks guys . . .
He has not had good luck with boats . . . His Grady White 305 needed a new engine (due to a hydrolock) after owning it for only a few weeks.
This boat (Pursuit 310ST) has been good (up until now) and he recently had the upholstery re-done.
I'm also thinking the fuel tank is...
My brother sent me a picture of his boat today . . .
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Apparently they were out and had beached the boat nose in on a popular island for some fun and sun, which they normally do. 'Somehow' :unsure: water came over the transom and one of the deck plates (?) was loose, filling the bilge...
The short answer is no, there should not be a difference, but the longer the time, the more dust could collect on the sanded surface.
Get the sanded surface very clean, then use a tack cloth right before painting.
How much money do 'we' have to buy this boat?
I have a 33 foot bowrider . . . 3 footers are no problem 😛
Maybe SeaRay SLX series 270, 310, 350
Chaparral SSX series 307, 337
Formula 270 BR, 310 BR, 330 CBR
Cruisers Yacht 338 Bowrider
I use bleach to kill mold, which tends to be everywhere. In the post-season I wipe down the bathroom and counter surfaces, etc and the same in the spring prep
This is the boat with the stinky toilet/head (right?), which I believe you fixed.
The boat must be 20+ years old :unsure: , being a Maxum 2400 SCR (right ?) How's the vinyl seating? Good shape?
The original cockpit carpet on my previous boat lasted 25+ years . . . I got the boat when it was...
Welcome to iBoats . . .
Got any pictures to share? Not many post come up about Chris Crafts, but they are generally well-regarded. Of course being 18 years old, the current condition is what matters the most.
Welcome to iBoats . . .
I see that they have some legacy manuals online, and the 4060 manual mentions that they were updating it to the 'current' models. Perhaps they never did.
Maybe you can use one of the similar models boat's manual? (4060, 4260)
Welcome to iBoats . . .
Boat owner's/operator's manuals tended not to exist 'back in the day', and for the ones that did exist - it was mostly navigation stuff.
So, if you have not found anything by Searching the Internet, it may not exist. Boat engine manuals tend to be the best resource...
Let's see . . . We have
- What oil should I use? threads
- Electric Vehicle threads
- Gasoline Price threads
All wonderful entertainment . . . :unsure:
🤪
I don't have much to add, but it looks like whatever experience you've had previously with boats was not enough.
Look to see if you can find a used outdrive on eBay or elsewhere and check the gear oil.
BTW - if the outdrive had been sitting empty for a period of time, it was probably toast...
Well almost . . . All the circulating pump does in either case is circulate the water (or coolant) through the engine block.
The seawater pump moves the water into the engine and an equal amount of water gets pushed out of the engine because of it . . . the sea water pump doing all of that...
It means that the engine has been running at low oil pressure (< 10 psi) for too long of a time. Maybe clear the code(s) and try to start the engine to see if you are getting oil pressure at the gauge.
Otherwise shut down . . .
Other things to check are the various relays and fuses for the injector system. Reference the wiring diagram for your engine by serial number to see the exact fuses & relays.
All those parts that you replaced . . . those were not the problem.
Do you have spark? Have you tested that you have spark while cranking? Is the spark while cranking consistent or erratic?
IIRC, the distributor is in a base timing mode while cranking and the ECU takes over at/above 300...
