Remove all that are screw to the midleg.
No need to remove flywheel, maybe the carb so you will reach some screws.
Do not remove the spacer plate #1 from the midleg.
There are some shock absorbers (rubber) and they might go bad if you start to remove them.
Check the diagrams at Crowley Marine...
If you have change trigger you have to set the timing.
You adjust by the rod that move the trigger connected to the timing tower.
Use a timing light to adjust, set it 28dgr BTDC at WOT at cranking speed (starter speed).
Well guy48065 that is the one that is pricey, agree with you of that one.
It is because it is only available from Mercury.
But most of the impellers to Force are from 15 dollars up to about 45 dollars.
Yes, I know about those plastic plugs.
If the seal at the lower cover is bad pull those plastic plugs to be sure the water will drain.
I do not think water in the lower hurt at all at low RPMs.
The water will not reach the power head and the carb intake, the water will drain when pushing the...
There is a rubber seal at the lower cover that seals around the mid leg.
Maybe it leaks from outside there.
All Chrysler/Force from 70Hp (not the late Force one carb 70Hp) and up to 150Hp has this design.
Water inside would not hurt I think.
It will drain after avail, water inside the lower...
Guy48065 where do you buy impellers to Force/Chrysler for 115 dollars?
A impeller kit to the larger engines.... yes, but just an impeller no.
They cost from 14 dollars and up to about 45 dollars.
Parts to Chrysler/Force are most of the time equal in cost to the OMCs.
I am in Sweden Europe and...
As topgun3690 says, check the exhaust rubber boot at the rear of the lower leg cover.
If no leak there check the exhaust cover at the engine for a leak.
Do not loose the screws at the cover if not necessary, they snap really easy if they are stuck.
Agree with both topgun 3690 and Buster53.
Chrysler got a bad reputation because it was a bit heavier on fuel then OMC and Merc.
In my opinion just a bit heavier, the OMCs drank a lot of fuel too.
Chrysler had an old design of the engine, it was from the late 50.es/early 60.es as West Bend brand...
Agree with topgun3690.
Some other things to have in mind.
Use good quality TC W3 two stroke oil with 50:1 mix and remember the engine is old, do not run the hell out of it.
Do not run at full throttle for a long time.
3/4 throttle is much better and the fuel consumption will be accepetable.
Take...
Agree with both topgun 3690 and Buster53.
Chrysler got a bad reputation because it was a bit heavier on fuel then OMC and Merc.
In my opinion just a bit heavier, the OMCs drank a lot of fuel too.
Chrysler had an old design of the engine, it was from the late 50.es/early 60.es as West Bend brand...
General start procedure when cold.
Pump up the primer ball until it is firm.
Set up a fast idle at the remote control.
Push in the key switch to choke when turning the key to start.
When the engine starts pull the fast idle back a bit to warm up the engine or all way back to idle if it will run...
The stator do not need an exact position.
It purpose is to charge the CDI box capacitors and to charge the battery through the rectifier.
An exact location is not necessary.
The length of the wires may give a location.
Looks good in my opinion, but clean up the edges of the stator poles iron cores with sandpaper.
It is to remove most of the rust and it will make the built up magnetic field to be stronger.
Take a closer look at the stator winding at each pole, look for hot spots in the insulation.
Check the...
Do as topgun3690 says.
Check compression, spark at all three cylinders with a spark tester.
The spark should jump 3/8 in or more in atmosphere.
Clean the carbs and set the float level if necessary.
Check and I would suggest you to change the fuel pump diaphragm.
They are cheap and they will go...
Check the gaskets at the exhaust cover, BUT be careful the bolts can snap really easy.
If they are hard to loosen penetrate with penetrating oil, heat them with a propane torch and tap them with a hammer.
Move them back and forth with small steps.
The Force power when I think about it that 120Hp power head I bought in a package was for a jet-drive and not a L-drive.
Maybe I am wrong about the 125Hp power head not fit to the L-drive drive shaft.
FYI guys
A few years ago I parted out a 120Hp L-drive power head that was blown.
It had the Mercury Thunderbolt ignition system (not CDM typ).
The funny thing with this one IT HAD AUTOMATIC OIL INJECTION.
The oil pump was driven from a gear that was integrated in the crank shaft.
The gear was...
