Check with a tiny tach.
Also are these steps followed?
1.Disconnect the ball link to the carb cam at the timing tower. Disconnecting at the cam risks bending the cam. Move the cam away from the carb roller.
2. Loosen the screw(s) on the aluminum tie bar and let all carbs close completely, then...
Just for giggles.......... a force engine (running at idle 750 RPM) from that spec./age we're dealing with. Will have the timing on #1 (approximately) @ 7 degrees BTDC
No need for "snake oil" (unless it makes you happy for some reason & enjoy a smoke show.)
DO however;
- Get another gauge to check your compression readings
- Clean/check the recirculating hoses & fitting (are check-valves)
The issue you'reexperiencing with that; Mabe here in step# 4. The black roller is held with an offset screw and nut. Loosen the nut and turn the screw until the black roller JUST touches the cam. Tighten the nut and re-attach the ball link maintaining the scribed line at the roller.
I had this...
I had this happen to me;
Not lined-up properly, causing to crack the adapter on the housing AND filling-up the entire lower-leg with water. YES water WILL eventually make its way to the head BUT not enough flow. hence the overheating.
I took two 6" bolts , cut-off the head and use them as...
They test/ measure the jump of the spark
Also make sure you are working with a; tested good battery to ensure enough RPM's while cranking the engine ( this is needed to generate enough voltage to charge-up the coils for ignition...
Nothing with the start-up of the engine
Nordin asked you regarding the spark that you have not answered?!?
Did you check with a spark-gap tester? or just looking for a spark?
