@achris tagged him here
he is referring to the cast exhaust elbow on top of the exhaust manifold. In salt water these are corrosion prone. Fresh water they usually are lifetime unless over heated or freeze damaged.
My local shop supplied a couple props to trial under you break em you bought em… ended up buying both because i liked one for skiing one for cruising. they should do the same otherwise you can buy them online for less…
Good i was hoping we could leave your mother out of it… i put these serial numbers in on the parts look up at marineengine.com
40 hp comes up as a 2.00:1, 25 hp is a 2.25:1.so 40 hp has less gear reduction.
Apples and oranges … were 19 and 21 same prop, was hub slipping? blade area, diameter, and cup all affect this.
Props are very application specific.
based on info given, assuming tach is accurate if you still have the 13” pitch try it
Your mother is a short shaft? Not sure what you meant
different boats different pitch is required. Do you know if the gear case ratio is the same between engines?
again is cavitation plate even with bottom of boat ? Then motor is set ok , (maybe not optimized). If you only get 3900 rpm u need...
verify the 3900 rpms is correct if so you need to go down in pitch to get rpms up to hit correct WOT rpm range. If you still have the 13" I would try it to see how it reacts.
As far as motor height do you have the cav plate even with bottom of boat? I could see it slowing top speed if it is...
Hard to determine from the keyboard. I had never seen a quicksilver labeled transom before...
I assume it was slip kept and someone didn't keep up with watching corrosion. could have also busted a gimbal ring from hitting something may have found used drive but needed new transom housing...
Can't comment on year but transom looks newer than drive, guessing transom was replaced. Given bubbling on drive assuming corrosion
Normally quicksilver branding is so it can be sold outside of the Mercury Dealer network. Mercury branded items are only sold at Merc dealers.
If you go to...
the instructions are here - is generic for all models ... https://marineengines4less.com/images/companies/1/EST%20Ignition%20Instructions%20-%20ME4L.pdf?1431462059320
of course these are generic so your mileage may vary
You need a way to get 12 v when key is in start position and 12v when key is in run position. Don't have a wiring diagram but I suspect you will need the wire coming off the starter solenoid to get 12 v to + side of coil during cranking, and take 12v from upstream of where resistance wire was...
I would knock the toons with a pick hammer to see where else on them is so badly corroded. it is most likely that the rest of the toon is just as corroded and you have nothing to weld to. probably hard to see unless you get the layers of bottom paint off.
as outlined above if someone used the...
It must have been a freshwater boat with no build up of scale like that. I boat only in fresh and thats what my manifolds look like.
i would run a file over the surfaces so check them for flatness and reassemble with good gaskets like oem merc or Barr
Since you threw your hat in the ring, Maybe you should learn what you are talking about too…
if you want to do those things feel free, but spinning on starter will accomplish the same thing. In fact this was recommended by the engine supplier when i repowered my boat a few years back. I thought...
Unplug the shift interrupt switch if it wont start . You may have adjusted it to where it is now tripping the swtich qnd cutting off the ignition. Had a hung up shift swivel arm … tried to adjust the cable onky to have it not start…
So this is happening on land then ? One thought is maybe gimbal or u joint has rusted during lay up but would think these would be the same neutral and in gear. Wondering if they forgot the thrust washer on prop
I know you said prop is fine but real easy to check drive with prop removed
With...
