You are correct the premium lube (light brown in color) was the lube for gen one and older drives back in the day.
I suspect but cant confirm that it is the same formula. When the gen 2 came out in 1991 i think they changed the labeling to simplify 75 hp and below for premium, 75 and up for high...
Yes top the level off in the heat exchanger. I would think you would see flow unless there is sediment built up or circulation pump on block is bad. Based on what you say i would top off and observe. If you still get no flow check circ pump and disassemble heat exchanger. Also possible raw water...
simple to do just a simple sanity check before you get too far in that the mechanical condition of the engine is ok
you tube or manual will have procedure to follow
The heat exchanger has two sides to it. One side is the freshwater side with antifreeze that circulates to and from the block, heads and manifolds (if it is a full system.
the other side of it is the raw water side, raw water is pumped through the heat exchanger, taking the heat away from the...
You can try cycling the cylinder switch back and forth between cylinders, sometimes this will clean some corrosion off the contacts and it will work .
may also look for corrosion at wiring points on back and at negative side of coil…
other than that bad tach.
Ive used the same for ring and pinion changes as well For exact swme rolling torque with no issues. I think Chris indicator is certainly a better and more accurate tool but can get salty for shade tree mechanic
Does the choke close ? It is normal on a carbureted engine to pump the throttl forward Once or twice this sets the choke closed and squirts some fuel in via the accelerator pump.
would start with following
check compression
check condition of ignition components
did you set the ignition...
Interruptor for safety? Shift interrupt is only to get it out of gear. Based on the instructions i would try it starting engine disconnected then connect while running
The instructions say to put the timing shunt in while it is running http://marineengines4less.com/images/companies/1/EST%20Ignition%20Instructions%20-%20ME4L.pdf?1431462059320
so i interpret this to mean start it with shunt disconnected from distributor then while engine is running connect it...
Very cool , i was wanting to do the same conversion. Do you have any idea how long the battery lasts ? Was also thinking a set of pulleys to be able to play with gear ratio . I was assuming that a electric motor would need an overdrive ratio to keep impeller at or near same rpms as the two...
Thats an mc 1 drive. A prop for mc1, R,MR, and alpha drives will fit it.
I believe The thrust washer need to be changed out to work with your current prop.
it doesnt look like your new prop has a removable hub , its pressed in right?
