Gee, I have never had any issues bonding poly resin to dry pressure treated lumber. I even used PT plywood for my last boat deck. Zero issues with the bond. The advantage is that when you screw the seats into the deck, thru the glass cloth, the PT plywood resists rot.
Did you ever see what...
Normally you need two layers of 3/4 plywood to fit the transom, a couple of gallons of poly resin, a few yards of medium mat and a few yards of medium weight fg cloth. You will also need some poly putty, acetone and maybe some gelcoat for filling in the cloth weave. As for tools, a grinder...
If that motor is like my '98, the shift rod goes thru a cover, with an oring seal. The cover can swell a bit binding up the shift rod, which moves down for reverse. Obviously, you need to drop the gearcase to see/repair this.
You may not find an exact replacement. The good news is that you can replace the entire thing with something similar. You need one as wide as the original and flexible. Some need special tools to bend.
They usually come with SS screws and an insert. You may need to redrill to fit the new...
Can you bolt a couple of 2x6 timbers to the existing frame so they stick out the back and support the hull? I would be wary about extending the tongue as a failure there would be real bad.
You might let the engine set in the up position for 30 min. You need to let the bubbles in the PTT fluid escape, before it can be refilled w/o air in the system.
This should be posted in the MerCruiser forum.
My '88 4.3LX starter was typical for GM starters of the time. The starter solenoid would magnetically pull a piston down a cylinder, and a pivot would push the starter gear into the flywheel. When the piston met the bottom of the cylinder, an...
You will need a spanner to unscrew the top of the PTT cylinder. They are avail from Amazon for short $. There are lots of them, so you will need to measure the dia of the holes and the distance apart and see if you can match that to a spanner.
There used to be a seal kit for a lot of those...
Your top carb looks to be leaking. Likely float or inlet needle and seat. The OEM part number for a carb kit is 8542561. Take a look at ebasicpower or Sierra for a cheaper replacement. I would rebuild the top carb and see if that fixes it.
That cobalt must have backed into something real solid, and I would expect the outdrive to be a total loss. If she hit something going forward, the drive would have kicked up, with little damage or none.
Gee, the pictures of the pistons look brand new. Carbon is minimal, IMO. Clean the water jacket if she needs it, install new head and transfer cover gaskets and go boating.
Most new props are modular. That is the housing and blades will often fit sterndrives and outboard motors of different brands. Usually, the hubs are brand specific. i.e. I can swap props between my Mercury 135HPV6, my Johnny 150HPV6 and an Alpha I sterndrive, by using the correct hub, thrust...
Your fuel pump is run by crankcase pressure and vacuum. If the fuel pump diaghram leaks, raw fuel can get into the crankcase, possibly hydro locking it.
Of course, it could be a bad starter, bad starter cables a binding bearing, or other stuff.
