you need
1. good compression,
2. good spark at the proper time,
3. and the proper fuel to air ratio for the fuel to burn correctly
find out which of those is a problem
since this is a remote operated motor, not a tiller.
the neutral safety switch will be in the remote control not in the motor.
at least that is the way all the boats I have owned have been rigged, but I never owned a Suzuki
check the fuel pump.
if the diaphram leaks fuel into the crankcase it will cause that cylinder to run too rich.
I am guessing #2 is what provides the pulse for the pump on your motor.
It would think it to be an inspect, clean, or replace if needed.
Kind of like the stats.
if you are paying someone to do it, just replace because their labor would be more to inspect, clean ,test and put back in, than the new part
PCV stands for Pressure Control Valve
or PRV Pressure Relief Valve
under high RPM the pressure builds up and over comes the spring loaded valve , dumping excess water lowering the pressure.
as I said if it sticks open ,it will dump too much water at lower rpm, the block will not fill with...
Just to let you know, the 2 stroke Yamahas do not have a low oil pressure light,
It would be a low level alarm.
and I do not see how a stuck open stat would cause an overheat alarm
how did you verify that it was getting proper power?
Setting up a current meter in series to the heater unit would verify it was getting good connection and current was flowing
I would disconnect wires one at a time or maybe all at once from the gauges.
see if the fuse still blows.
at least then you have some idea if it is a gauge or in the wiring itself
can you get a video and post it up so we can see and hear what is happening?
a timing light might show if a spark is dropping if moved around on the different plug wires.
or maybe an inline spark tester might show if a plug is loosing spark from time to time.
Just never ran into a random spark...
No it is not an electrical switch, it is a manual turn device.
so it cannot be remotely operated.
OP make sure you are turning the emergence switch all the way counterclockwise to the auto position.
if turned to the on position the needle cannot turn it off when warmed up.
I just had a thought, have you verified that the prime start system is getting voltage to it while the motor is running?
and that the ground wire is making good contact.
if no power to it it will not heat up and close off.
If the fuel pump is leaking into the crankcase, it would cause #3 cylinder to run rich.
I am not sure if any other cylinders would be affected.
I do not remember off hand where the pump in the prime start system gest its pulses from, but it might be #2.
would not hurt to check to see if those...
Just looked and that part number is for a 40 and 50 from 95 on up.
See if you can find a used one
The manual for my C40TLRX does not give a spec just replace if it does not move.
so maybe you need to be looking for a different problem
