You can try cycling the cylinder switch back and forth between cylinders, sometimes this will clean some corrosion off the contacts and it will work .
may also look for corrosion at wiring points on back and at negative side of coil…
other than that bad tach.
Ive used the same for ring and pinion changes as well For exact swme rolling torque with no issues. I think Chris indicator is certainly a better and more accurate tool but can get salty for shade tree mechanic
Does the choke close ? It is normal on a carbureted engine to pump the throttl forward Once or twice this sets the choke closed and squirts some fuel in via the accelerator pump.
would start with following
check compression
check condition of ignition components
did you set the ignition...
Interruptor for safety? Shift interrupt is only to get it out of gear. Based on the instructions i would try it starting engine disconnected then connect while running
The instructions say to put the timing shunt in while it is running http://marineengines4less.com/images/companies/1/EST%20Ignition%20Instructions%20-%20ME4L.pdf?1431462059320
so i interpret this to mean start it with shunt disconnected from distributor then while engine is running connect it...
Very cool , i was wanting to do the same conversion. Do you have any idea how long the battery lasts ? Was also thinking a set of pulleys to be able to play with gear ratio . I was assuming that a electric motor would need an overdrive ratio to keep impeller at or near same rpms as the two...
Thats an mc 1 drive. A prop for mc1, R,MR, and alpha drives will fit it.
I believe The thrust washer need to be changed out to work with your current prop.
it doesnt look like your new prop has a removable hub , its pressed in right?
you wont be able to turn it by hand unless the plugs are out, then it shoudl turn fairly easily.
did you correct the firing order and timing and did it run ok afterwards
You can clean it out, send it down and jb weld it . Same thing happened to my grandfathers boat occasionally had to re expoxy it but ran that way for years no issue
I think You should be running the non restricted gaskets with your style thermostat housing ( cold manifolds). As AD said that isnt the issue thermostat should hold back water enough to keep it at temp. i would guess you have a mismatch between the thermostat, manifold crossover, thermostats...
You have a 96 and up vortec block, which is actually better… you can see 8 vertical intake bolts and the plastic cover plus electric fuel pump… just order parts for 96 and up the plastic cover is technically not reusable …
youve seen the advice given here , and keep asking the same question
Strong sentiment that oem merc are longer lasting and better fitting.
if you want to try a less expensive your call.
