BUP does know his stuff and is a skilled Tech. The above is not in any manual I've ever seen but I'm sure its correct. This would explain the issue and I'll make note of it for future reference
Does look like its your ECM or a short
Most likely there is a corrosion issue.
Battery to starter post red
Bat post to 90amp (square block thing on starter post)
90amp fuse to 50amp breaker on motor red
50amp breaker to motor connector pin 6 red/purple
pin 6 to 20amp fuse to key switch red/purple
Check the connections. Need to...
Need to try adjusting your shift interruptor switch first. If that works then your good to go. If that is no help then need to replace the shift interruptor switch.
Howdy
Were going to need more info to advise
Need to measure the voltage output of the Alternator when its running.
What is the battery voltage before motor starts, and after motor is running around 1500 RPM or more?
Reg is used on your L29 and some 8.1 is a damper on fuel rail
Should be 43 psi (same as cool fuel Reg) but unable to verify.
Other part numbers are
802630T01, new 8M0069803, (43psi) Sierra 18-7663, Crusader 49063
IMO the part should interchange but maybe @Fun Times might have some insight...
Has the condenser been changed?
Does the coil get hot?
When its running, measure the voltage on + side of coil to see if its around 9V
Also when it dies, does the voltage change?
Most likely the ALT needs the internal regulator replaced (rebuilt) or ALT replaced. The connections are in bad shape so before doing that remove and clean them up. Also clean the starter and battery post connections if they look the same.
It runs fine for 5-10 minutes, then it starts missing and plugs 4-5 are black and wet. Plugs 1-2 look fine (cream color or brown). Compression is around 150 on all cylinders.
Something listed above is not correct
Even if the firing order was not correct would not produce what is listed
B+ = Bat voltage
MEFI-3 J1-1 is B+ injector driver and J1-17 is B+ injector driver
Key ON or Running should be B+
Yes should have 12V because it gets B+ thru the injectors to the pins. The injectors won't reduce the voltage next to nothing because there is no current draw
Think I would look...
Maybe think about how to put a vent or two in the cover, or make the sides so air can be exchanged. Put something in the sides so cover has an opening or have vent in the top that is rain tight but does allow air flow.
A pic might help us come up with ideas
Closing it up pretty tight might be the issue. Think of a terrarium. It makes its own moisture. A white cover gets hot and can steam parts inside, darker colors make it worse
Don't know just trying to understand
How is the boat put away between uses?
What's the weather like?
Think along the line if the boat was covered with plastic, its humid, salt water environment all that kind of stuff. What would cause it to just start rusting? Also is other things rusting?
I don't see adding the extra 3/8 plate will cause any issues with springs
Don't know about the U bolts. Guess you've looked at Grainger square U bolts. They have some more then long enough, just not exact center to center
No, I'm saying code 44 might not be causing the beep, but then again it could be causing the beep.
It could very well be the knock circuit and my only reason behind it is the manual list it looks for it. It is not listed the same way Merc does. In the GXI manual it states something along the...
Understand, but there is no power reduction. Could be VP allows for code 44 with no issues, but the code can still be the issue. I'm just don't know. The guy that would would be @muc
Think this is 2 separate issues
Code 44 is set by the ECM trys to make the engine knock and it is unable to do so. When Merc sets 44 then power is reduced. Unsure if VP does the same.
As before 2 beeps means active fault. Only way as I see it is to be able to scan for codes when this...
