You could also replace the bottom one , as long as the top screw is sealed there will only be a slight dribble come out when you remove the bottom screw. You should remove the bottom screw in any case as if there is any water in the lower unit it will come out first ........not a good thing but...
Nup ,tried it ....well not exactly but 3 out of 4 head studs aint enough for a. 100cc bike .
If you remove one stud the distance between the next two supporting studs is to great to reliably clamp the head down and it will spit the head gasket out between these two studs....most likely as soon...
I think that the ally conducts heat away so fast that it can soak up a far bit of heat ,and I think you gain more by heating moderately and cooling a few times than you do by over heating it once
I looked at using crayons but I could never find ones the right colour.
😁Ha ha , yeah dont worry bout the paint burning off....that don't mean nothing😆, but yeah ally can be hard to "see" the temp . If in doubt use an ir thermometer and dont go above 120⁰c
And how much of that stuff goes down the hole by accident? 😁, can you see the bottom? ,I mean its easy enough to chuck stuff outa your boat by accident but having a portal to the lost dimension in the floor is asking for sadness😁
Modern 21st century countries use the mm² measurement ...and the metric system 😆. Whenever I see the wire gauge spec I gotta go to the converter app
I an a great fan of fitting relays .....mostly because Im into older stuff and you have to look after switch gear thats nla .
If I had a 50 year...
15-20a? I got a small watersnake and that draws 45a max . What happens if you give it a bit much wellie ? , fry the unit and leave you to row home ?
Just an observation but the 12v motors seem to go about 1 lb thrust per amp draw . Most electric outboards here are rated in lb's of thrust...
Even heating and cooling a few times can help the pbb to wick its way in . Heating the side of the block where the bolts go in helps too .
Patience is a real bonus here, sometimes you have to persuade on a bolt for a few days of overnight soaks and heat cycles and hammers to get it to see things...
Yeah Lou thats ok if you can get at it without having to dismantle half the car.Transverse motor so the belt is hard up against the right side of the engine bay .
Crazy really that I have to remove the suspension to check the fan belt , I can see about 6 inches of it ( the belt )from the top ...
Yeah , 🤬 I have one of them plastic intakes ....with variable intake runners , I cant wait for that to crap out 🙄.
I found out that it has to come off to get at the rear spark plugs .
I have been told that water pumps are prone to failure ( Toyota 2gr-fe) so I figured Id fix it before it broke ...
Yes ,I have to replace the serpentine belt on my car and ordered new idlers and they are steel with a bearing . Only want to replace belt (100k+kms) but I am doing the idlers and waterpump as well coz they are a proper pain to get at .🙂 May as well do it in one hit .
I think that these sealed bearing idler and tensioner pulleys are not as long lasting as used to be . If possible I usually lift the seal and put a bit more decent grease in there .....but its pointless if you damage the seal .🙂
My Mums car had heated seats .....I do NOT like them .......as long as the heater works ( doesnt in the Capri ) Im good .
I would rather have cooled seats .😁
To late 😁,( now there's a patch of daisies I wouldnt mind wizzin on 😆)
I don't care about him and tbh he wouldnt even make it to the short list of bastards I have met .
( Good book that, .....Bastards I have met , by Barry Crump )
I learnt that charging lead acid batteries really does produce explosive gas.....and that one shouldnt light their smokes by shorting out said battery with a bit of welding wire untill it was red hot , actually on that fateful day (I done it heaps of times )the wire didnt get much more than a ½...
