To find #1 remove #1 sparkplug and dist cap. crank motor till you hear a "puff" of air. This is #1 compression stroke. Now look at the timing mark on the harmonic balancer and turn motor until timing mark is on zero.
This is TDC of #1 wherever the rotor is pointing is now called number one...
I`ll assume the drive and housing components are removed and the water hose removed.Then remove the 2 bolts remove bushing, twist and remove inlet tube
Final follow up
Oil was placed in the plastic overflow bottle and only the heat exchanger was compromised. Motor was not run so no mixing tool place. No oil in the lower hose to the circ pump. So just a HX cleaning and degrease and were good to go.
if your coil says to use a ballast resistor then you need one. If it does NOT say "use ballast resistor" then full voltage is ok
Try a ballast resistor from a Chrysler car 60`s to 70`s
the tight fit of the oil hose work well without clamps. There is zero pressure in the system . Most likely the hose itself is the leak. When you start the repair CUT the hose first. You dont want to break the plastic nipple end at the transom end.
The new switch is NC and opens a circuit. To use the new switch it need to be "in series" to the coil. activating the switch cuts power unlike the old type that put a ground on the coil what activated
