1952 Duracraft Sportsman

jbcurt00

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

I think that hue of blue looks like 1950-60's Feathercraft blue anodizing...... Which I really like, so yeah, I like your bahama blue....

Depending on the look you're going for, a small wooden strip along that edge might do the trick. You could run a kerf along the backside, so it covers the actual edge of the metal..........

Or a 3/4" flat stock aluminum could be riveted down w/ a 1/8: reveal over the dash's edge to hid it....

That place ^^^ carries quite a few styles/types/grades of aluminum...
 

64osby

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

Also, I'm looking for some sort of aluminum trim to go on the bow cap above the dash, any ideas on that would be awesome.

What's the goal? To stabilize, cover a sharp edge, dress it up?
 

m casey stock

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

What's the goal? To stabilize, cover a sharp edge, dress it up?

Cover the sharp edge and dress it up, I like what was originally there, but It was made in the 50's and I guess it's not offered any longer or at least I can't find a source for it.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

Have you still got it or a piece?

Post a profile pix of the molding, someone may have a suggestion of where to find it or how to modify something off the shelf to look more like the original.
 

m casey stock

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

Have you still got it or a piece?

Post a profile pix of the molding, someone may have a suggestion of where to find it or how to modify something off the shelf to look more like the original.

I do, it would be great if someone recognized it and was able to pass on a link. Anyway, here's a few pictures of the trim/molding.

DSC00035.jpg DSC00033.JPG DSC00034.jpg

The slots and holes in the under tab (don't know what else to call it) in the last picture were not originally in the molding, the slot was cut to bend around a curve, and the holes were of course drilled for the rivets. I felt sure you guys already knew that, but I just wanted to clarify just in case.
 
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64osby

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

Did a little looking at aluminum extrusions, nothing close to what you have. A "J" shape would cover the edge and be able to be riveted through the cap.

You have a J -T -F shape going there, certainly not a standard.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

About the best I could do:
A11-0151.gif
Based on an overall 3/8" profile, the overhang is likely only 1/4"+/-

From here, several other rubrails......
 

m casey stock

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

Yea, kinda frustrating, because it really would tie it all back together. I have a couple pieces that got cut when whomever did the bow cap mod, but they are too short to meet back up at center dash. I think I'll try to reuse what I have (although they are rough from being bent and straighten, drilled and slotted) maybe I can come up with something that will work to fill the straight part at mid dash. Although a fresh 5 to 6 foot piece would be sweet to go from one side to the other unbroken.
 

64osby

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

Maybe use a thin J to wrap the edge and add angle under it. The rivets would tie the cap and two pieces together.

Much more standard product.
 

m casey stock

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

Maybe use a thin J to wrap the edge and add angle under it. The rivets would tie the cap and two pieces together.

Much more standard product.

That idea sounds promising, I noticed a piece on the TACO site that looked like it would work if you added angle to it, Looks like it would do the same job on a glasser with 3/4 plywood edge.A50-0275.gif would mean extra rivets , but it wouldn't take many just being trim?
 

64osby

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

OA7408 J-Cap - Fits 1/16" Page 21 on http://www.orangealuminum.com/Orange_Catalog_2012.pdf
Clear Anodized J-Cap Aluminum Trim to Fit 1/16" Material
with 3/16" Reveal
• 1/16" W x 3/16" H x 23/32" H (.068" x .188" x .718")
• 6 Foot Cut Length
• Clear Anodized Finish, Per MIL-A-8625F
• 6063 Ultra-Corrosive Resistant Architectural Grade Alloy, T5 Temper
$8.79
3' section $5.02

Was thinking wrap the edge and have the long side under the cap. Add the angle under the long side and flush on the face. Rivets from the top down hold it all together.


XXXXX .......V- rivet
Xoooooooooo ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Cap
XXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXX J
XXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXX Angle
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
 

m casey stock

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

Thanks Guys, had to work on actual money paying stuff today, so I didn't get time to search. I appreciate all the good leads. I'll be sure to post what I come up with.
 

m casey stock

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

Okay, time for a little update and a few pictures. I stay busy with other projects too, especially this time of year, but I have been working on my little Jewel. I found some windshield brackets on ebay that suited me well and they look like they were meant to be on the boat (at least to me anyway) payed too much for them, but not as much as the guy did for the next set that came up LOL so I guess I really did okay. I've got them mounted and a pattern board cut for the plexiglass windshield.

$(KGrHqJHJEEFENuU3LltBRH-KLGq-g~~60_57.jpg Boat 25 Apr 2013 -- 1.JPG
I've also been working on a floor in the mid section between the two bench seats. I wont be putting one up front because you can't stand there anyway and I like the extra leg room, as for the rear, I'm not sure what I'm going to do back there, but I'm not thinking floor as much as I am brackets to hold the fuel cell and the battery in place. I plan to cover the floor with a tight loop carpet, gray in color to match the inside paint.
Boat 25 Apr 2013 -- 2.JPG Boat 25 Apr 2013 -- 3.JPG Boat 25 Apr 2013 -- 4.JPG
 
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greenbush future

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

Really nice work you are doing here, I'll keep looking at this one, lots of great craftsmanship being performed here.
 

m casey stock

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

Really nice work you are doing here, I'll keep looking at this one, lots of great craftsmanship being performed here.
Thanks for the compliment, been at it since last year. Plans are to get it in the water by mid Summer.
 

kfa4303

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

Hi M Casey. The Rustoleum Aluminum Primer is good stuff, so is their paint for that matter. I use good 'ol Rustoleum Professional Oil based enamel on my decks and its lasted for years. Lots of other folks have used it to paint their hulls too. One of the best tips for a good paint job is to use the same brand of primer and paint in order to avoid an adverse chemical reaction. Here's a handy link that can help you with the job.

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...lly-started-w-pics-384982-10.html#post3302799
 

m casey stock

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

Thanks, I figured it to be good stuff @ $8.00 a can LOL. I'll spray it and let it cure for a few days to be sure all the flash chems. are gone and then lightly sand with a scotchbrite pad before final coat. My top coat is a single stage catalyst by PPG. Daihatsu Peacock (Lt.aqua) getting so ready to have this finished up. All these sunny warm days really don't help, :D I actually did use the Majic Tractor and Implement paint for the bottom of the boat and am really pleased at how nice it laid out and how durable it seems to be. I would have used it on top, but they did not have the color I wanted at my local tractor supply store LOL (imagine that, not too many peacock colored tractors running around) I'm used to painting with PPG and dealing with my local distributor for PPG that's why I had them mix some up for me
 

m casey stock

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Re: 1952 Duracraft Sportsman

Okay, know this is a car and NOT a boat, but this is the best I could come up with to show what the top color SHOULD be on my Duracraft when its painted. Time will tell. The paint chip looked like it had a little more green in it and the liquid in the can looks a lot darker, but I know from experience that until it's on the metal and in the sun, it's just too hard to predict when it comes to pearls and metallics.
1964_00043_02.jpg DSC00088.jpg
Pretty close, we added more metallic to the mix for the boat.
 
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