1956 Johnson 10HP

[AlTn]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

outboardbooks.com...or ebay

 

[BassBlaster29]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

I found original parts manuals on Ebay but no repair manuals. I'll check that other site. Thanks!!

 

[BassBlaster29]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

I went and got some longer grade 8 bolts today. Put the puller on and put a little pressure on it. Gave her a couple light taps with a dead blow and she popped right off. Piece of cake. Thought I would share some pics of the condition of the ignition system. Not only are the coils completely shot, but one set of points is adjusted completely closed. My parts should be here Wed or Thurs. I'm not touching anything else till I get some parts.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

Congrats. Removing the the flywheel is abut as hard as it gets on these little guys. Your magneto looks typical for it's age. The cracked original coils are a dead give away. The original coils were about the only weak spot on these guys. The new coils are much much more reliable and you should never have to change them again. the rest looksgreat though. very clean. new points and condensers and that little motor is gonna purrrrr like a kitten. Still can't believe it's in such good shape. Keep us posted!

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

Oh boy. Looks like the original coils there. and original condensors as well. I think it would be a good idea to remove the mag plate and completely refurbish it. The points may be okay to re-use, if they're not pitted, but new coils, wires and condensors are a must.

Believe it or not, it's nothing uncommon to find these old motors in this great of shape. I see it here quite a lot.

 

[BassBlaster29]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

Oh boy. Looks like the original coils there. and original condensors as well. I think it would be a good idea to remove the mag plate and completely refurbish it. The points may be okay to re-use, if they're not pitted, but new coils, wires and condensors are a must.

Believe it or not, it's nothing uncommon to find these old motors in this great of shape. I see it here quite a lot.

I have parts on order. I'm replacing it all. No sence in only doing part of it right? I figured while I had it open, I might as well replace the entire system.

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

Good idea. I usually do the whole thing myself.

 

[BassBlaster29]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

While I wait on parts to arrive I decided to clean all the crud off this thing. It looks pretty good. Can anyone suggest a way to get the old registration stickers off. One peeled right off but the other two are really on there and have been on there since the 60's. I want them off but dont want to damage the paint. You can see the stickers in this pic.

 

[kbait]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

A product called 'goo gone' works well to dissolve adhesives. Test on an inconspicuous area first, but it should work..

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

Up here the product is called goof-off, sounds the same. Or you could try a heat gun.

 

[BassBlaster29]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

Tried the wifes hair dryer. Worked like a champ. Thanks guys!!

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

That works too! I had to buy a heat gun after the wife complained about me using hers though!

 

[Mas]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

I kinda think the stickers are cool and I'd keep them. They prove the motor's nostalgia.

Mas

 

[BassBlaster29]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

I was able to get the ignition system replaced today and got her running. It fired up on the third pull, I couldnt believe it. It runs perfectly at idle but gets a little rough at higher rpm's. I still have to rebuild the carbs. It feels like I should have a lot more throttle though. If you listen to the video you can hear it get rough when I give it some gas and that was full throttle.

Heres a video of it running...[video]http://s964.photobucket.com/albums/ae127/BassBlaster29/?action=view&current=M2U00016.mp4[/video]

Also I noticed some oil oozing from this hole in the side. (see pic) Should oil be coming from there? I also noticed a little bit ozzing from behind the shifter. I know it shouldnt be coming from there. What causes that? Thanks.

 

[seyahjr]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

That is a beutiful little engine, none cleaner than that one..nice to see a picture of one thats all original.if i had a motor like that i'd have it in my living room. very nice

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

That oil oozing out is unburned two cycle oil and that is very common to see that.
As far as the motor running rough at high rpm's, I would turn the high speed needle in about 1/8 turn and see if it smoothes out.

 

[BassBlaster29]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

I was backing it out at 1/8th turns. No wonder it wasnt getting any better. I knew I should have reread that thread again!! I have the carb tore apart now so once I get it back together, I'll give her a go again. Thanks guys.

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

Yea, a good place to set those needles is a 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns out for the low speed and 1/2 to 3/4 for the high speed. I seen a lot of those old motors run good at 1/2 turn out, especially in the smaller motors. Bigger motors like 3/4. Settings will vary as the motor warms up.

 

[BassBlaster29]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

K, thanks, I'll start with those settings when I get the carb rebuilt. Still waiting on the non cork float to arrive. What do you think about the little bit of oil oozing from behind the shifter? It was just a little bit. Maybe 5 or 6 drips but I dont think oil should be coming from there.

Also does anyone have the Sierra part # for a lower unit seal kit? I dont see one listed here at iboats for earlier that 58. I dont think I have any lower unit problems but figured I might as well seal it all up just to be safe. How much of a pain is it to disasemble the lower unit?

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: 1956 Johnson 10HP

I wouldn't worry about the oil from the shifter area. Not uncommon for the bushing in there to have a little wear - I think there's a grease fitting somewhere in that track.

The oil on the side of the leg is also not uncommon. That "hole" is where the upper water tube grommet seats. As those rubber grommets age, they can shrink a bit, allowing blow-by as the exhaust passes by...

Keep the oil in your fuel - do not be tempted to run it on 50:1. Those early 10s had a habit of pounding the babbit bearings out of the wrist pins, particularly if run lean on oil. Run a minimum of 24:1...