1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

[HighTrim]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

So that gearcase doesnt have the phillips head pivot pin on the right side of the gearcase? Your '57 Fastwin should not have a phillips head pivot pin. The '58 Johnson FD12 18hp will have one though.

Some of those holes are drain holes, to keep the gearcase empty of water when you pull the motor out of the water. It didnt have that many originally though, nor that big!

EDIT: OK, I have 2 '57 Fastwins, 1 electric start the other manual. The electric start does not have the phillips head pivot pin, the manual start does have it. I think that was one of the mid year engineering changes in '57. The '57 Johnson FD series changed with the "K" suffix in the model number signifying the mid year change.

I dont think any of the 10hp motors had the pivot pin until '58, I dont recall having a '57 with one.

Perhaps Frank can verify that.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

So that gearcase doesnt have the phillips head pivot pin on the right side of the gearcase? Your '57 Fastwin should not have a phillips head pivot pin. The '58 Johnson FD12 18hp will have one though.

Some of those holes are drain holes, to keep the gearcase empty of water when you pull the motor out of the water. It didnt have that many originally though, nor that big!

EDIT: OK, I have 2 '57 Fastwins, 1 electric start the other manual. The electric start does not have the phillips head pivot pin, the manual start does have it. I think that was one of the mid year engineering changes in '57. Perhaps Frank can verify that.

Should I fill any of these holes or am I ok?

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

The rectangular plate that you have removed is for water pickup in reverse. The rectangular hole covered with the screen mesh on the fin is the water pickup in forward. The holes into the gearcase cavity will not affect water pickup in any way.

I am guessing that the gearcase has an obstruction to the normal drain hole, and instead of trying to clear it the PO simply drilled more holes. I run across little mud daubers that like to build nests in those cavities. Their mud is hard as concrete, and needs to be drilled out. You need a long drill bit as well.

I dont think they will have any negative impacts on your motors performance.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

I see that this motor does NOT use a gasket under the impeller plate. Should I use the same 3M 847 sealer and spread a thin coat around perimeter of mating surfaces between impeller-lower unit and also impeller water pump housing interface or just install it with no gasket sealer?

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

I always seal under the impeller plate with the 847. No need on top of it to the impeller housing.

Then dip the screw threads in gasket sealing compound for the impeller housing.

Very important, dont forget to grease the splines of the drive shaft and replace the o ring before reinstalling the lower unit. You will have a bear of a time getting it out next time if you dont.

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

You want to make sure those drain holes are clear, if possible. If water sits in there, over the winter, it could freeze and break your lower unit. It is very common, for the bottom one to get clogged and corrosion builds up in there and closes it off, even more.adding more holes, is not a bad idea either, that way drainage is all the better.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

You want to make sure those drain holes are clear, if possible. If water sits in there, over the winter, it could freeze and break your lower unit. It is very common, for the bottom one to get clogged and corrosion builds up in there and closes it off, even more.adding more holes, is not a bad idea either, that way drainage is all the better.

Where should I add holes and how large should they be? I presume I could just drill them out with my hand drill...ie not a drill press or anything special required? Thanks.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

You usually have to drill them out from the top when the gearcase is removed. You need a long drill bit as well, as the cavities are deep. That is of course if the cavities are blocked like we are guessing. Are they?

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

You usually have to drill them out from the top when the gearcase is removed. You need a long drill bit as well, as the cavities are deep. That is of course if the cavities are blocked like we are guessing. Are they?

Cavities are not blocked...maybe they were when the previous owner did the drilling, but good shape now.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

I inspected coils...both look ok through the inspection window. One is blue and one is green. From what I read, that means one of them is pretty new and the other is an older coil. It has spark on both. Should I play it safe and replace both coils or maybe just replace the blue one or just let it ride?

 

[lyonne]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

I had one blue and one orange on my '58 twin. They looked good and checked out with an ohm meter. I installed new wires, capacitors and point, but left the coils. The orange one looked older on my. They worked fine for a test run. I may regret it later, but they are easy enough to replace.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

I pulled the flywheel and installed new points and condenser. However, the cam oiler piece fell out when I was removing the armature plate and I am not sure where it went. I have searched to find pictures online and in my service manuals, but no luck. I have attached a picture of my cleaned and re-assembled armature plate with the cam wick holder and wick laying off to the side. I know I will need to pull something off and install this under it to hold it in place. I just can't figure out where. I would appreciate some direction.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

Ih jb. Here's a great link that can help you with the ignition rebuild. If you can't get the oiler wick installed, its ok. They tend to just collect dirt and dust over time any way, which is why you find so many motors without them.

3 HP Evinrude Lightwin Ignition System Tune-Up 1952-1967

Maintaining Johnson E & FD Serie

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

Im going to have to disagree with above. Install the oiler wick. They are there for a reason. Once worn, you will get erratic spark. It takes literally 30 seconds to install. Easy decision in my opinion.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

I got the wick installed and then had a little trouble putting it back on the motor. What I thought was a tight fit on the crankshaft ended up being the points impeding installation. RESULT - One bent breaker point. Ugh. Being ignorant about motors results in a lot of hard lessons. Oh well...points are cheap, so there you go.

Removed the head and a lot of carbon build up. In process of cleaning up the head and will resurface and install new head gasket. Couple of questions.

1) Can I resurface the engine block while it is on the motor...do I just put some tape over the piston bores so no
metal shavings get into the bores?

2) Are the head bolts cover bolts stainless? They are somewhat corroded and I suppose I should probably replace...or is the standard procedure just to wire brush them clean and re-install as-is?

 

[kfa4303]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

hi jb. sorry you bent your points. those oiler wicks can be a PITA sometimes:/ maybe you can bend them back into position? at least you go the head off easily enough. you shouldn't really need to resurface the engine block per se. Most folks just resurfacing the head using 80 grit sand paper on a very flat surface, like a piece of glass by sliding it around in a figure-8 pattern with light pressure. do a search here in the forums and you'll find lots of threads with pics of the process. as for the head bolts, it sounds like they came out ok, so I'd clean them up and reuse them if they're still good. just make sure you re-install them in the correct order and to the correct torque spec, which of course I can't remember off hand. I'll post it later if I find it.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

Retorque 96-120 INCH/LBS in the following order. Start with 50% torque (60 inch/lbs) for a full cycle, then about 75% torque (90 inch/lbs) for a full cycle, then the final torque of about 110 inch/lbs or so. Remember, when reusing old fasteners, you should stay about 10% below the required torque. Ask how many guys on here have snapped bolts as a result of this. Put OMC Gasket Sealing Compound on the threads when reinstalling. Simply clean with a wire wheel or wire brush unless corrosion is bad.



The block side is usually good. Easy enough to check though with a straight edge. I have found the trouble area to be between the plug holes on the head in my experience.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

Thx guys. I think I will replace the bolts. Why not. I am replacing everything else. Ha. So, are they stainless or should I use a different grade bolt?

 

[64osby]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

93 - I did end up having to mill the head on mine. The cylinder sleeves were crowned, crusty and pitted. Brought the motor from 25 lbs up to 100 with the milling and a new gasket.

I used my original bolts with no issue.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1957 Fastwin - Restoration consolidated

My head gasket came in the mail, and I think I received a NOS gasket that requires gasket sealant. It is not shiny, rather it is dull gray in color. I believe the proper procedure is to coat both sides with OMC Gasket Sealer. Correct? How liberal should the coating be applied and is there any reason I have to protect against getting it on the inner metal rings that form the holes around the piston sleeves? Thanks.