1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

bigjo911

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I just acquired this motor. It has a crack about 2 inches near the prop on the lower end from water freezing and splitting the gear housing. What is the least expensive yet good way way to fix this crack? I was told to use a marine JB weld to seal the crack, clean, sand and apply. However I removed the 6 screws from the lower end gear housing (I have no experience with motors) thinking I could just take the gear housing off to prep the inside to patch. When doing so I realized I was not able to just take the housing off as the gears seemed attached to it somehow and would not allow me to take off the gear housing. A small metal rod about 1.5 inches in length ended up falling out and onto the floor. I'm not even sure what it is or where it fell from. I need guidance to fix this old pup for the spring time. Thank you.

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy194/myparttimebusiness/1958 QD-19 Johnson/DSC_5016.jpg

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy194/myparttimebusiness/1958 QD-19 Johnson/DSC_5017.jpg
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

Ah you removed the old phillips screw ;)

That screw is the pivot pin for the lever for engaging and disengaging the clutch dog. No big deal, just needs to be re installed when you are done, otherwise you are permanently in neutral! You will need a new spaghetti seal and some 3M 847 or you will be getting some more water in that gearcase.

Actually, you may want to reseal completely while you are at it. I would.

Did you forget to change the gear oil when winterizing or did you aquire the motor like that?
 

bigjo911

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

That's what that Phillips screw was for. Yup, I removed it. How do I get in the casing to put the pin back in? I bought the motor on a 14ft aluminum boat and steel trailer for a cheap price. Knowing the motor needed some time to fix. SO how do I get this gear cover off to clean out and reseal along with putting that pin back?
 

1946Zephyr

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

Well, in 99% of the time, the drain holes get cloged up with debris and water sits in the lower unit cavities. Winter time comes....POP goes the lower unit. Sorry to say it, but most who own boat motors is what keeps the mechanics in business.
 

kfa4303

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

Hi Bigjo. No worries. we've all removed the 'ol phillips screw by accident. I would take it as an opportunity to disassemble the Lower unit so that you can learn about your motor and reseal it. It sounds bad, but it's actually a pretty easy job and you can get a seal kit right here at iboats for about $25 and do all of the work yourself. As far as the crack itself, you may be able to get away with the JB weld, if the crack isn't too deep, or you can take it to an aluminum welder and see if they can fis it for you (should be less than $20 max). Here are some links that can get you started. The link that show you how to reseal the lower unit is for a different model, but your motor and most other vintage OMC motors follow the same basic procedures. You should only need one special tool which is the seal puller I have listed below. Keep us posted. Holler if you get stuck.


http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/johnson_QD.htm (great link for an overall tune up)

Lower-Units-05.jpg (cut away view of a typical lower unit.)

http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfind...6=10&gd_search_1047=1958&**********=351150354 (seal kit available right here at iboats)

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=277190&highlight=lower+unit+seal+kit+installation (different model than your, but same basic steps)

Seal_Puller.jpg (seal puller available at any auto parts store for about $10 US)
 

1946Zephyr

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

You can actually get by with just replacing the lower half and not have to remove the lower unit. Once you get a new piece, just bolt it on and check for out of roundness with an inside mic. Someone may have a bad lower unit (which is common on '58 - '63 models) but the lower piece is good. I found in most cases, it works out just fine.
 

samo_ott

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

I just JB welded a crack on the skeg I got on a 25 and it worked fine. That's what I'd recommend.
 

bigjo911

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

As always gentlemen, very helpful and informative. I will use the links and information provided to fix things up. Once I jump into it I will update on the progress. Thank you!
 

kfa4303

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

I use a little trick I saw in a tread here in the forums to remove the shift rod seal bushing, but you can buy/make a special tool if you want to. here's the link I got it from. look at the 7the or 8th post down and you'll see what I mean. ditto on the 3M 847, you may have to order it and it's kinda pricey, but one tube should last you quite a while.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=277190&highlight=lower+unit+seal+kit+installation
 

bigjo911

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

So I got the skeg off. I hammered the crack in a bit then sanded it smooth, I just need to JB weld/ PC7 now. I also placed the pivot pin back. Now the problem I'm having is trying to place the skeg back on. Is there a trick? I only removed the 6 screws that held it on.
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

Did you get the 3M847 and a new spaghetti seal?

What is giving you trouble?
 

1946Zephyr

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

Make sure the pin on the front (forward gear) bearing is sitting right in the hole. Often times these get mis-aligned and the skeg gets sicnhed down on it. Item 45 in the attachment will have a hole to line up with a dowel pin, in the gearcase where it sits.
 

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bigjo911

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

I have not bought the seal or 3M yet. I was just trying to place it back on for comfort of it fitting back on for later. It didn't come off as easy as I had planned initially. It took a little wiggling back and forth. Is there any technique to fit the skeg back on. I will try the mentioned idea of keeping the pin aligned as well.
 

1946Zephyr

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

That pin HAS to be aligned. If it's not, then it will embed itself further into the gearcase and dent the bearing cap. This is important.
Other than that, there shouldn't be anything to keep that skeg half from setting down on the gearcase properly.
 

samo_ott

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

Oh yeah, the pin HAS to be aligned. Otherwise the front bearing cap rotates and the oil passage does not align and the bearing does not receive oil and will seize up. Ask me how I know! I had a 20hp that it happened to last summer. I got it that way (as in, I didn't do it!) and it didn't last long. And sure made a heckuva noise when it seized at WOT!
 

bigjo911

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

This pin must not be aligned properly because I cannot get the skeg bottom back on. Here is a photo of what I'm dealing with. When I go to put the bottom back the pin is even lengths on each side. I take the pin out the skeg goes on fine. I wiggled and moved the bottom around a lot but still did not go on. It didn't come off easy the first time. What am I doing wrong?


http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy194/myparttimebusiness/DSC_0041.jpg
 

samo_ott

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The pin is under the bearing. You have to rotate it until you feel it drop in. It's very important. Sometimes a previous owner has put it in wrong and the pin will be pushed most of the way in. This makes it harder to line up but still doable.
 

bigjo911

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Re: 1958 QD-19 Johnson 10HP cracked lower end help! Freeze Damage.

How am I supposed to spin the pivot pin when it is in the clutch arm? Where is this bearing? Is there a diagram? Apologies for the lack of knowledge, that's why I'm here trying to fix this oldie up. Thank you.
 
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