1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

[tim_duracraft]

1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee cranks and idles without ever even squeezing the primer bulb. But about 150 yards away from the ramp after I putt out of the no wake zone I give her full throttle and she spins right up there and about the time we plane the boat out it dies. Seems just like you turned off the gas. I have had it in the water 3 times and 3 times she's stranded me. I look at the see-thru filter and it's full and the sediment bowl looks good and clean and full of fuel. Oh and by the way each and every time it cranks smoothly as soon as I get it back home 20 mins away. It has a new water pump and isn't getting hot. Any ideas???

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

Try having someone pump the fuel primer bulb (acting as a manual fuel pump) when you apply full throttle. If this makes a difference, suspect the fuel pump or leakage at some point in the fuel line.

 

[tim_duracraft]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

I'm with you, but the see thru glass filter never leaks down - it's always full. And don't forget, it always starts again at the first bump of the starter once I get it home. And I never pump the primer bulb. When it quits on me, if you hit the choke, excess fuel just runs out the front of the carb........thanks for your input.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

Sounds to me like you are confusing the issue by talking about the fuel. Have you checked the ignition system? Will it throw a 1/4" open air spark? Have you ever replaced the coils? Those old OMC motors of that vintage all have bad coils unless they have been replaced. And they will drive you nuts till you do.

 

[tim_duracraft]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

Now there's an idea....by throwing an open air spark - are you saying take a plug wire off the plug and hold it near a ground and watch for spark there 1/4"? Would that cause it to die off under a load and feel just like running out of fuel? It wasn't instantaneous like it was electrical.....it was a bogging down slowly over 5 seconds or so...just like the tank went dry. Thanks again

 

[Pleasure Boat Junction]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

From the owner's manual for this motor, to check the spark you are supposed to ground one plug wire while checking the spark on the other. As I remember when I was having problems with my coils, the spark was jumping the 1/4" gap and the coils appeared to be fine until I followed this procedure in the owner's manual. They turned out to be bad.

 

[tim_duracraft]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

So, take both plugs out. Ground one plug wire to the cylinder head and hold the other 1/4" away from the head and look for spark. Is this correct?

 

[freddyray21]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

a spark tester at the local auto parts store is cheap. The reason for grounding them is so the motor won't start while you are doing it. Has nothing to do with testing per se. If coils are bad then can fire fine until they get warm then get weak or not spark. If it has never had the coils replaced they need it. Pull the recoil and the inspection plate on the flywheel. Turn the flywheel and look down at the coils. Believe it of not the motor these coils came out of ran too.

 

[Pleasure Boat Junction]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

The reason for grounding them is so the motor won't start while you are doing it. Has nothing to do with testing per se.

Based on my experience I have to disagree that it has nothing to do with the test.
As stated in my previous post, the spark from each plug wire was jumping the 1/4" gap when the other plug wire wasn't grounded. The coils appeared to test fine until the plug wires were grounded as directed in the owner's manual. With one plug wire grounded, the spark from the other wire would not jump the gap. The test was repeated with the new coils and the spark did jump the gap with the other wire grounded.
The manual does call for the plugs to be removed.

The way you have it stated is how the book says to check it.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

You must ground the plug that you are testing. In normal operation, the coil sends a high voltage charge to the center electrode, where it is supposed to jump the gap and run to ground via the base of the plug. If the base of the plug isn't grounded anywhere, there will be no spark.

The other plug is generally removed from the head in order to prevent a tendancy for the motor to try to start, and to reduce load on the starter by having two open spark plug holes and, hence, no compression.

The quarter inch gap referred to in a previous response here should occur when using a spark testing tool.

 

[lbentz]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

If that picture in the thread are the coils you had in your Golden Jubilee, then I would chuck them. The insulation is cracked and most likely leaking out onto the stator plate. This is very common in these and coils can be easily obtained at your local Napa or marine supply. Eventhough they appear to work fine, they'll often fail when out on the water and run fine, when you're at home with it. The humidity around the water makes them arc out more.

Good luck, I hope this helps.

Leon

 

[freddyray21]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

Based on my experience I have to disagree that it has nothing to do with the test.
As stated in my previous post, the spark from each plug wire was jumping the 1/4" gap when the other plug wire wasn't grounded. The coils appeared to test fine until the plug wires were grounded as directed in the owner's manual. With one plug wire grounded, the spark from the other wire would not jump the gap. The test was repeated with the new coils and the spark did jump the gap with the other wire grounded.
The manual does call for the plugs to be removed.

The way you have it stated is how the book says to check it.

I think you misunderstood my point. You are only checking one wire at a time so the other is grounded to keep the motor from firing. Just unhooking it will also do it, but if the end is close enough to a ground it will jump to ground also. The two coils are independent of each other except when tied together with a kill switch in which case neither will fire then. One plug wire does not have to be grounded for the other to fire. In fact when both are hooked to a spark plug neither of them are grounded. The plug is grounded, but the current runs through the center of the plug seeking a ground which it finds when it jumps the gap at the end.

 

[freddyray21]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

If that picture in the thread are the coils you had in your Golden Jubilee, then I would chuck them. The insulation is cracked and most likely leaking out onto the stator plate. This is very common in these and coils can be easily obtained at your local Napa or marine supply. Eventhough they appear to work fine, they'll often fail when out on the water and run fine, when you're at home with it. The humidity around the water makes them arc out more.

Good luck, I hope this helps.

Leon

read that post again. Those were coils out of a motor I was working on not his coils.

 

[lbentz]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

Well, I guess I stand corrected

However, my point still stands. A new set of coils are not that expensive and replacement often eliminates headaches and often will result in easier start ups and better performance. I have reconditioned hundreds of these stator plates and that was my end result.

Often times, where the spark plug lead goes into the coils, you'll find rusted or corroded connections that lead to problems. Also, where the boot covers the plug, you'll often times see rust and corrosion in the connections. It's best to just eliminate headaches all together and give the stator assembly a once over. You'll be glad you did.

I apologize for the mix up

 

[freddyray21]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

Well, I guess I stand corrected

However, my point still stands. A new set of coils are not that expensive and replacement often eliminates headaches and often will result in easier start ups and better performance. I have reconditioned hundreds of these stator plates and that was my end result.

Often times, where the spark plug lead goes into the coils, you'll find rusted or corroded connections that lead to problems. Also, where the boot covers the plug, you'll often times see rust and corrosion in the connections. It's best to just eliminate headaches all together and give the stator assembly a once over. You'll be glad you did.

I apologize for the mix up

no stator assembly on that motor

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

Is this boat new to you or have you had it for a while?

 

[Pleasure Boat Junction]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

I think you misunderstood my point. You are only checking one wire at a time so the other is grounded to keep the motor from firing. Just unhooking it will also do it, but if the end is close enough to a ground it will jump to ground also. The two coils are independent of each other except when tied together with a kill switch in which case neither will fire then. One plug wire does not have to be grounded for the other to fire. In fact when both are hooked to a spark plug neither of them are grounded. The plug is grounded, but the current runs through the center of the plug seeking a ground which it finds when it jumps the gap at the end.

I understand what you are saying. Independent coils or not, I am relating my experience.
With no wire grounded the spark jumped the gap on the other wire and indicated the coils were ok. I didn't know about grounding one wire until a few weeks later when I obtained an owners manual for this motor. I followed the test procedure outlined. Then with one wire grounded the spark didn't jump the gap on the other wire. The coils checked bad.
Probably the same proceedure is outlined in any manual. This is from the owners manual that came with the motor new. No spark test tool is called for.

 

[freddyray21]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

a spark test tool is not needed it is just easier to watch the spark. Not familiar with the owners manuals way to check spark. I only use the method I have used for 40 years. Don't know what caused the spark to not jump on yours. Perhaps it is a newer motor with an ignition other than a magneto ignition such as we are dealing with here. No need to get testy.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

One Tim to another....
Lets try this....
In another earlier post about this boat you mention that you are a new boater with very little experience.
One of the best pieces of advice I ever received is ~ when trouble- shooting always check the simple stuff first.
If this is insulting, I apologise but some thirty years ago I ( and my Dad) learned this one by experience, and by coincidence also with a 35 HP ....but a Gale.
Is there a chance that you have your fuel tank cap tightened right down? If so, you create a vacuum condition that stops fuel movement....actually "freezes" it because there is a back draw that the fuel pump can't beat. You get exactly the symptoms that you describe.
After a few minutes with the engine stopped, the volatility of the gas results in the vacuum being eliminated (normal vapor pressure restores itself) and the engine can start again.
There is an "intermediate" position for the cap where you can wiggle the cap a bit but not lift it off.

If this seems too obvious, as I said, I apologise.
If by chance this is the problem, you'll know by cracking the cap when the motor has just stalled out. You will hear a short ssshhhhhhttttt as air rushes back into the tank.

If you get that noise, the cap was too tight. Leave it in that position and you should be good to go immediately.


Rgds,
Tim

 

[freddyray21]

Re: 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark Golden Jubilee dies

One Tim to another....
Lets try this....
In another earlier post about this boat you mention that you are a new boater with very little experience.
One of the best pieces of advice I ever received is ~ when trouble- shooting always check the simple stuff first.
If this is insulting, I apologise but some thirty years ago I ( and my Dad) learned this one by experience, and by coincidence also with a 35 HP ....but a Gale.
Is there a chance that you have your fuel tank cap tightened right down? If so, you create a vacuum condition that stops fuel movement....actually "freezes" it because there is a back draw that the fuel pump can't beat. You get exactly the symptoms that you describe.
After a few minutes with the engine stopped, the volatility of the gas results in the vacuum being eliminated (normal vapor pressure restores itself) and the engine can start again.
There is an "intermediate" position for the cap where you can wiggle the cap a bit but not lift it off.

If this seems too obvious, as I said, I apologise.
If by chance this is the problem, you'll know by cracking the cap when the motor has just stalled out. You will hear a short ssshhhhhhttttt as air rushes back into the tank.

If you get that noise, the cap was too tight. Leave it in that position and you should be good to go immediately.


Rgds,
Tim

makes a lot of sense, but if that were the case it would run for him again once he allows the tank to fill with air again. I got the impression though that it left him stranded. Still one to check for sure.