Re: 1965 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!
One layer of mat and one layer of woving IMHO wont cut it..
If your just sealing the trans okies..kinda marginal to me..but for Tabbing you should grind and Tab more lams.
You should ALWAYS have Mat before your Woven.. you cant mat 4 and woven 8 .. It would be inversed .. mat 8 and woven 4 IF anything..
But.. I allready suggested your mat mat.. woving mat woving..etc.. Kinda too late to ask without having some grinding disks and itch arms ready for the answer..again...
Now I know your going to bring your stringers up..and grind/glass some more.. I assume.. So again.. DRY fit .. prep..cut your glass.. have it All ready to go..then glass.
I dont just say using mat for the first layer for kicks ..nor the last layer being mat to cost you $$.. its for your next step bonding.. if you have to grind/scuff or add your glass for your next step...
The best way to glass is using mat First..then your schedule glass ( being 1708 after 1708 OR ..mat woven mat woven mat..etc..
YD.
Ok thanks, I asked to clarify last time you posted but never heard back, I wasn't sure. So far there is a layer of Matt then a layer of Woven. So far the transom in significantly thicker then stock. So your saying 8 layers of matt and 4 of woven? Man that is allot. Don't you think that's kinda overkill? I've always thought and been told not to go overkill, otherwise I can adversely change the handling/weight dist of the boat.
Lets put it this way, its already leaps and bounds stronger then stock, before it was only 1 1/4 thick finished, there was no fiberglass at all on either side of the transom, it only had 1 4" tab of woven on it, the rest of the inside of the transom was bare.
Now the wood thickness is 1.5" plus a layer of matt inbetween the skin and wood core, then a layer of matt then a layer of woven, so I'm probably at 1.75" now.
If you think I need to do a few more tabs then I'm all for it. I'd rather not make the transom any thicker then it is now though?
Thoughts?