1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

[jc55]

Hey Guys, thought I'd introduce myself since I've been lurking this awesome site since 2006. I'm restoring a 1968 Sportcraft C-gull as an island commuter/work boat on the Ohio river. It will remain in the water as much as possible, tow a pontoon barge from time to time, and also display it's classic lines at local lakes and rivers with the wife. (All of this wet transom talk and the condition of THIS boat has made/caused me to immediately pull my Baja out of the water!! lol)

This Sportcraft had sealed compartments below decks with a small, isolated, open bilge in the rear of the boat. Water had been trapped below decks (I vacuumed out the main stringer wood with a shop vac). Is there a source for ski locker or inspection hatch trim with the ledge for a hatch to sit in. I'd like access to these areas in the future. Also, should I glass in some 1/2" PVC to drain these compartments to the rear bilge area? This boat will stay in the water longer than it will be on a trailer. Thanks in advance!!!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Options while replacing stringers and deck. Inspection hatches, drain tubes.

Re: Options while replacing stringers and deck. Inspection hatches, drain tubes.

Pictures, pictures, pictures... we need pictures!

 

[jc55]

Re: Options while replacing stringers and deck. Inspection hatches, drain tubes.

Re: Options while replacing stringers and deck. Inspection hatches, drain tubes.

Ok here's some pics, I got my transom out tonight in one piece for a template. Took about an hour with the cap, stringers, and inner fiberglass skin already removed. It was water logged but not rotten so I decided to replace it even after drying it out for the last 3 weeks or so. I replaced the middle stringer first for rigidity before removing the other two and the transom...



Simple tools...




Here she is...

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Options while replacing stringers and deck. Inspection hatches, drain tubes.

Re: Options while replacing stringers and deck. Inspection hatches, drain tubes.

If it was mine to do I'd use the deck well/drain and fill the below deck completely full of 4lb. expanding urethane foam. I'd glass the deck in and either textured gel coat or Durabak it.There would also be one or maybe 2 auto bilge pumps in the deck well with a couple of good batteries to power them.

I like the looks of that boat.

 

[jc55]

Re: Options while replacing stringers and deck. Inspection hatches, drain tubes.

Re: Options while replacing stringers and deck. Inspection hatches, drain tubes.

Thank you so much for your replies. I'm going to take those suggestions and now that I found some small hatch manufacturers, I will install those bilge pumps. The foam sounds like a good idea too. The river can be a scary place sometimes

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Options while replacing stringers and deck. Inspection hatches, drain tubes.

Re: Options while replacing stringers and deck. Inspection hatches, drain tubes.

Well keep us updated on your progress, it looks/sounds like you have a good handle on what needs to be done and how to do it... and if I can help let me know.

I really do like the looks of that tri-hull and if I could find one around here for a reasonable price I'd be doing a restore.

 

[jc55]

Re: Options while replacing stringers and deck. Inspection hatches, drain tubes.

Re: Options while replacing stringers and deck. Inspection hatches, drain tubes.

Thanks again! Trihulls are a dime a dozen up here but all need stringers. I paid $950 for mine with a 60hp Johnson. Might be a little steep but the curved windshield is a rare find.

 

[jc55]

1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Thought I'd share some more progress with pics. I've had her about a month and hope to finish her by spring...

I've enlisted some help...


Bought some clamps, drilled out the rivet, flipped it all around and made "pusher" clamps...




Transom in...


First coat of Duraplate 235 after sanding everything down. The forward bulkhead has 1/2" cpvc glassed in the lower corners to drain water into the forward bilge. I bought two 7"x11" hatches from iboats for access panels (to be installed)


Another coat, flotation foam and hope to knock out the deck this week! I have one heck of a supportive wife!

I need to hit you guys up for an outer hull plan. I was thinking about flipping her upside down, West System epoxy repair on all the dings, etc. D/A'ing the whole thing down with 80 grit, PPG DP epoxy prime, bottom paint(Not sure which one to choose, then PPG k36 and basecoat/clearcoat above the water line?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Boat work looks excellent and your helpers look real good wearing the safety glass!

I'm not much of a painter, but maybe one of the paint gurus will chime in.

 

[zool]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

DPLF epoxy primer is my choice also, even above the water line. You only need the k36 if you plan on blocking it straight. I would consider Concept over the dp or dp/k36 bases, looks like gel and no need for the clear, but you can clear over it if you like, or candy the topcoat.

On a straight hull, dp primer, then 2 wet coats of concept, and youre good to go!

also, if youre going white, no clear at all, it can and will yellow.

 

[jc55]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Thanks for the compliment jigngrub. So use the DPLF as a sealer above the water line then shoot Concept within the window? Zool, is Concept a PPG single stage color coat? The boat isn't real straight(kind of wavy), but I don't want to get too crazy and probably won't block her.

 

[zool]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Yes, PPG Concept is a 2 part, single stage acrylic urethane, with a fantastic, durable finish. Its a bit above their Delfleet Evolution Polyurethane, and more forgiving, cuts and buffs like a dream. Just get the p-sheets for the recoat windows and you can get it all done in a short time.

Blocking a boat straight can take forever lol

 

[zool]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Heres the sheet, they also have the Omni line, if budget is a deciding factor..on mine im using concept on the sides, and evolution in the same code on the topdecks, cockpit, and bilge....

http://www.tcpglobal.com/docs/ppgdccp.pdf

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Not sure I understand why you're painting the hull and stringers especially if you'll be foaming??? I understand the Duraplate 235 Epoxy paint is for water immersion and is a "Bad Boy" paint for Marine use but IMHO it's way overkill for this application. Mind if I ask how much it costs per gallon? With the stringers properly encased in glass and resin they should be good to go for decades with no other additional coating. I can see using it on the transom and bilge possibly but the rest seems a waste. I dunno, It's prolly me just being a C.O.B.!!!!:facepalm:

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Thanks for posting up all of the pics. I really like the pvc idea. Depending on what I find with mine im pretty sure im going with that concept. I cant wait to see the foam part get going. Looks good to me jc55. Nice work!

 

[jc55]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Hey thanks Zool, sounds like a winner. I'm definitely going to check out Concept.

Woodonglass, You're probably right...and being my first time it probably is overkill. I like the idea of popping a hatch, seeing that nice, clean, smooth hull. Having a small compartment to store gear or firearms and keeping an eye on any water intrusion. A gallon of part A with a quart of part B was around $114 or so. I used a gallon of Amercoat epoxy on my 28' pontoon floating dock deck...that I got for free.

Anyone have a bottom paint suggestion? Should I use a laser to mark the hull for the water line?

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Here's a suggestion for the prep. I went to the body shop yesterday that I worked at for a number of years and told them about my project and got a little info.
This is a product they use after they build and install fiberglass winglets on private airplanes to fill the gaps. Its a good quality spray on filler. You just pound it on thick, d/a it with 80 grit then 320 grit, wet sand it with 500 grit, seal and paint.
They said it fills gaps, cracks, small holes etc... and you can sand it almost immediatly. But you have to be right on top of cleaning your gun because it dries very hard, very fast and will ruin your gun and needle if you wait too long.
I know that doesn't help with the actual paint or laser questions but maybe it could save some time and money on the prep.

 

[electric603]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Jc55,
Glad to see you started a thread. Man you are ripping through the restore. I have been working on mine for a year and I just got the center stringer tabbed in but will not be able to do much more before I pack it up for the winter. I should have it done early in the season next year. Your boat looks just like mine. Does it have a deck on the front or seats. Glass work looks great.

 

[jc55]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Thanks maryhannaj, I've heard of that stuff before. I'll have to check the price.

Hey, my Sportcraft brother! The open bow is basically just a tub with drains on mine. I crawled in it and heard it cracking. I was thinking about extra supports underneath. Is your's the same? I have to move this to another shop with heat about 10 miles away...it's getting too cold to do anything.

 

[zool]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Anyone have a bottom paint suggestion? Should I use a laser to mark the hull for the water line?

Hey jc, as for the bottom paint, i see you plan to keep it in water, so you will most likely want an antifouling paint. I know you plan to use the dplf to seal the whole hull, which is fine...PPG's epoxy will hold up with the best..but...you might want to consider using a barrier coat for the antifouling paint you chose. PPG auto doesnt really have a topcoat that will withstand more than a few day submerged, nor repel growth.

Pettit and Interlux make good marine bottom paint, and each has its dedicated undercoat to protect the glass from absorption.

Maybe when you flip the hull, you can just use Pettit's 4700 2 pac epoxy primer, and their Vivid hybrid antifoul. You will get multi season protection and a somewhat shiny finish on the bottom. I believe it wil price out less expensive than the dplf. Then finish the sides with the PPG system.

As for the water line, the laser would work well if you can determine the line. I see in the pic on post #3, 4th pic down, it looks like either a water mark or a stripe line?..if its the water line, after you have it flipped, set the laser along that line and tape it off....

I suppose you could get away with hitting the whole hull with the dplf, with the antifoul over the PPG epoxy, but that risking compatability issues, imo