1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

[jc55]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Thanks a million for all the good info...especially since you have your hands full with an awesome project of your own! That gives me a plan. Busy week at work so I put the cap on for additional hatch location measurements, and sent the wife to get some more marine plywood in the meantime.

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Looking forward to some more pics jc55. Throw some up when you can.

 

[jc55]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

A good day today...Got the deck made up and fitted. I made the very last piece in two segments so I wouldn't have to cut into a virgin sheet of marine plywood. I love my iboats hatches but am surprised that they didn't come with templates. Posting pics is a cool thing because it is helping me be accountable and not take short cuts, lol.


I like to D/A all the edges and make the splinter free and smooth...


These hatches will be under the bow tub and behind the steps...


Moved the boat to the heated shop today. I'm trying to lease it so I may lose it at any time. My Grandfather's '25 Model T speedster in the forefront. Clocked at 70mph with a chevrolet overhead valve head adapted to the ford flathead block.


The paint room area. Needs cleaned up and set up but was able to get a coat of resin on the underside of the deck today...

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Still lookin' good jc!

What kinda resin ya usin'?

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Nice work jc55. That floor looks great and the hatches are gonna work out good. I noticed the braces that you installed on the hull to keep it from flexing. At what point did you install them and how did you know where to set the width? Did you already foam the hull and I just missed it somewhere?
Thats a great shop you have to work In too. I'm jealous for sure!

 

[jc55]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Hey Maryhannaj, no foam yet. The temp has to be high to meet the advertised expansion rate on the can. I may do the foam after I put the deck in. Gotta get the boat, foam, and shop acclimated for a day or two (natural gas ain't free ) before I can pour.

I took advice from another member. I marked the hull and cap every 18" with a Sharpie marker while they were together. Then I measured the width at those points on the cap after removing it. I reinforced the hull at specific points to retain those widths from the cap. I did not reinforce the hull every 18", but marking the hull often allows you options of where to place your crossmembers. I leveled the boat side to side before and after I removed the cap.

I bought that 3000 sg ft. shop at an auction cheaper than what most people spend on a base model Silverado. God has been good!

Thanks Jigngrub! I'm using Fiberlay. I called around until I got someone on the phone who wasn't rude, a burn out, and could answer basic fiberglassing questions. Then I went there in person (2hours away) I bought a marketing sample 5 gallon bucket of ORCA216 for $25/gal....a total hookup and fluke... It was great stuff!!! Thick and strong. Now that I've run out I had to pay the $48/gal for the Ortho Premium laminating ISO PREMIUM RESIN (P17) Orca 301 resin...It's inferior in my opinion. I ordered some P16 to try next. I'm open to suggestions.

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Oh-oh. Looks like I may be in some trouble on mine jc. I didnt do that that before I pulled the cap.:facepalm: Thanks for getting back man!

 

[jc55]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

I don't think it really matters to be honest until you go to tab your floor in. Even then, my boat is rigid at the chines and there isn't any play there. You can just measure starting at the stern while the cap is off if it concerns you. Putting stringers in level and without twist in the hull I would think is most important.

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

I guess I best try and remember that. I will find out what happens with it a little further down the line. Thanks jc55.

 

[jc55]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Back at it today...I'll explain my "deck screw epic fail". I bought 1-1/2" brass screws to install the decking. $30 worth Got everything ready, layed down some PL on the stringers, drilled pilot holes for each screw, started putting screws in and...SNAP! Tried it again...SNAP...redrilled pilot holes to the entire length of the screw...SNAP! Glue is setting up, I'm 14 miles from the nearest store and can't find my stainless screws anywhere. Drilled larger pilots through the deck then the smaller pilot holes in the stringer...SNAP! Finally did the above and a light coating of TAP MAGIC on the threads...bingo. Note to self...only use stainless screws from now on.

Got quite a bit left of a 115lb roll. I bought 1708 only for the entire project. Got my tabbing made up for the decking...


Made some last minute floor reinforcements...


Went Cabo-silly on the installed deck. I use Tractor Supply syringes to apply the PB mixture.


Started the tabbing with 3", then 6" of 1708...


All seams and sides double tabbed and a final layer of 1708 over the whole deck...


7 1/2 gallons of resin so far...this is killing me. I think that people who leave boats uncovered, bow down in their back yards should be flogged. But I digress. Cap on next, then measuring for and making the bow pan support. I'm so thankful for all the great posts here that have helped me to this point!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Dang!

I thought we were going to pour the foam before we put the deck down!

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Sorry about the snapping screw incident. I will definitely learn from that one. It's just super crappy that it has to be at your expense jc. But the good part is that your deck pics and your work are looking great man. Nice work. I'm really liking following along!

 

[zool]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

looks real good, jc, i wouldnt sweat it over the fasteners, with all that resin and glass, its not going anywhere....

 

[jc55]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

That's encouraging Zool... thank you! I got a good grid that went in, but just a rookie mistake I guess. Thanks MAryhannaj, been following along with your progress too! looking good.

Jigngrub, got it up to 80 degrees yesterday by mid day but the foam itself just wasn't ready(cans were still too cool). You lose a lot of expansion according to the instructions at anything under 80 degrees according to the instructions. I'm going to have to do it after the fact and buy a lot more after recalculating the sq. footage.

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Thanks for following jc55. I woder about any future projects you may have use for the remainder of your 1708? I know you still have work to do and a palace of a workshop to store new projects and materials in, but if that 1708 needs a new home, I may be able to help out with that.
I haven't yet taken much time to research what materials exactly I need for my rebuild but I can't really imagine that they would be too different. If your interested in discussing it a bit more, hit me up on PM.
I'm lookin forward to watching the next step in your process man. Nice work!

 

[electric603]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Looking good. You are flying!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Jigngrub, got it up to 80 degrees yesterday by mid day but the foam itself just wasn't ready(cans were still too cool). You lose a lot of expansion according to the instructions at anything under 80 degrees according to the instructions. I'm going to have to do it after the fact and buy a lot more after recalculating the sq. footage.

Bah! you should've done like the Canadians do and heated it up on the Coleman (with a side of back bacon).

The reason I suggested pouring the foam before the decking went on is because pouring through the decking can leave some big voids in the foam and if water ever gets in there it's trapped forever and will eventually seep into and saturate your foam.

I always cringe and shake my head when I see someone doing a resto and they remove the decking to expose those big voids in the foam and hear how the foam is totally wet and weighs hundreds of pounds.

 

[jc55]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

MHj, Hey man, I'll help out anyway I can. Can send you samples of stuff to try, etc. I'll probably need most of the supplies...for the next one hee hee. (I'd recommend buying some books on the subject) I'd like to get some opinions from others here. Not sure why anyone would need or want anything but biaxial for below decks and the rough structural work.

Thanks electric603...Can't wait to see your C-Gull too!

jigngrub...Those Canadians, they're hardcore! I bought my first '55 chevy up in British Columbia...in the snow. I have a void free foam idea...we'll see if it works. Thank you for all the good advice and looking out. I'm hearing ya.

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Hey thanks jc! I was actually just reading a bit through the cap in, deck out thread posted by Cobyahh. There is some great info on there about materials and processes that Mr. Woodonglass posted for him to do his restore. Nice drawings and everything.
Thanks about the offer too for sure! Instead of putting you through any trouble of sampling, mabe you can just post up some details on your materials and how you got them when you get a chance. That would help a lot, and it would be greatly appreciated.
I still have a lot of work before I can start re-installing. So it's not like im laying up anything today.

 

[jc55]

Re: 1968 Sportcraft C-Gull work boat project

Well, tried a final fit of the cap and the splash pan hits the transom and won't allow the cap to come all the way to the rear. I think that perhaps the transom is now thicker? I don't remember the exact thickness of the original. So I cut her to fit...


There was a screen and bondo patch over the steering cable hole which I ground out top and bottom...


From underneath...




And MHj, Hey man, I don't know if I'm the one to be giving much advice but I can take a pic of the supplies!

My question is, Does every bit of Gelcoat need grounded off before applying poly resin and mat? Will resin adhere and feather over Gelcoat? I ground out the splash panel corners all the way after this pic. I want to build this back up with 1708. then sand, epoxy primer, and paint.

Also, I've removed about 50 cover snaps all over the boat. Do I have to scarf every rivet hole or can I use epoxy resin and a syringe to fill these holes if I'm painting the hull?

I scored some vintage looking lights...honest opinions please if they look dumb(stickers on lenses come off. I'm hoping these fit my work boat theme...