1969 Larson - Big Project

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

you just caught me on a term I haven't heard yet... "vacuum bag"... ? Clarify please.

I Have a thread on this procedure ( repairing from the outside ).

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=317383&highlight=vacuum

Have fun in my other albums ..

Direct link to the pics ... http://s699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/YachtDr/


YD.

 

[smitty58]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

I have been rebuilding my Larson All American also. As far as doing it on the cheap I bought most of my sanders, grinders, foam rollers and sand paper at harbor freight. Especially that little multi tool. That tool is a must...I bought all of my epoxy resin,foam, fiberglass from Raka inc. Super easy to work with and no big smell. Its not polyester, its good stuff and fairly cheap. Im going to post some updated pictures soon. My boat was also water logged but my transom was only bad on the right side rear so I was able to repair it with out cutting or removing the splashwell top. What a *****. My floor was an entire riip out. The guy I got the boat from had put down 3/4 inch plywood on top of the original floor and just covererd it with carpet. The foam and floor must of weighed six hundred pounds. I drilled some holes in the two stringers they looked ok so i just refaced them with mariine plywood and bulit them up a 1/2 inch. I left like a two inch fiberglass ledge on the inside ledges of the boat from the old original floor. I filled the two outside channels with foam right up to the bow. What an adventure that was.. When I layed in the new plywood floor glassed it on top of two inch ledge and tapererd it in with bondo glass. I am now getting to the painting stage. This should become an epic event also LOL... As far as the wife mine is ready to kill me. LOL keep the faith. These old school boats are super cool.

 

[avpaulb]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

Thoughts on a different version of peanut butter...

I've used a method in the past of mixing 1/4" csm, resin, and VERY FINE sawdust together to a PB consistency. Not on a boat before, but different fiberglass/woodworking projects.

Comments from the peanut gallery?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

Not below the waterline or anywhere it may eventually get & stay wet..... So not for filling nicks & damage to the hull (interior or exterior), not for bedding or filleting stringers, not for laminating the wooden transom on the the fiberglass transom skin or filleting for tabbing at the transom, not for bedding the deck onto the stringers, not for filleting the deck to the hull, or filling & fairing the deck before final glass & resin application.

Maybe on the bow cap, or along the gunwales & cap topsides, on the dash &/or helm console.

Same reasons to avoid using Talc as a filler, it can absorb & hold water, even when encased in resin. There are a couple of other fillers you can add to the PB to make it 'hairy' for extra strength, to make it easier to sand (for use as a fairing material), or for 'bulk' filling of larger damaged areas before fairing. Many commercially available off the shelf fillers use talc too. So read the labels before use. Even when labeled 'for marine use'.......

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

I have only used saw/sanding dust with epoxy to fill gaps in wood.

I wouldnt use the poly/wood dust for any finishing work.

Possibly minor fillets for stringers or bulkies.

YD.

 

[avpaulb]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

Probably good points.

Well regardless... I hope to have the actually grinding down portion of the project done today with some pictures of the cleaned up results. Then, on to transom tracing and cutting and coming up with a stringer plan!

 

[avpaulb]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

Here is another great question:

What are some of your favorite suppliers for materials? Specifically, best value overall. So far I've looked at:

1. The iboats parts and accessories link
2. uscomposites.com
3. fiberglasssite.com

Any other big mystery suppliers I should know of before I start ordering things?

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

Fortunately I have local suppliers within a few miles from me.

I think that USC is the main place for fiberglass and resins.

Honestly I havent shopped around for best prices..but USC has good quality resins.

YD.

 

[avpaulb]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

OK, so I think I'm done breaking things down. Have a look and feel free to comment. In the meantime, I will go forth and create a template for my new transom. Pictures to follow.

I think I have solved the riddle of the "mystery foam" that is on all walls of the boat. I'm relatively certain that it was to create a form to attach carpet to. I don't think it has much if anything to do with floatation. Any further comments on this are welcome. Unless someone changes my mind, my plan is to repair the foam gaps I've created during breakdown, and to actually re-seal this entire thing with resin/csm.

 

[avpaulb]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

Ooh, I was promoted.

Got the transom template done and first piece of 3/4 " cut (I'm going with 1.5"). Let me know what you think!

My process:

1. Created a template from the exterior of the transom using 1" foam
2. Cut foam about 1/3" to the inside of my measurements, to account for exterior fiberglass and gel
3. Test fit
4. Transfer to 3/4" marine grade, cut with jigsaw
5. Test fit
6. (Not there yet) Using a router with a flush cut bit, copy the first transom piece and test fit.

You will also note from the attached pictures that I increased the transom length to 23". This matches my longer shaft motor. Plus, I can very easily change it back to normal later if need be. Only drawback... I'm going to have to modify the splashwell to fit the new transom.

 

[avpaulb]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

And yes, if you are looking at the picture from the rear, it looks like my cap is not level. True. This happened when removing the cap. I will fix later.

Side note: I was SHOCKED to learn how lightweight the boat is without all of the water, foam and wood in it! I was able to move freely. I can also bench press it. Good to know, because now I will probably take it off the trailer to repair all of the scuffs and nicks underneath before I go much further. Probably paint too!

Projects are cool.

 

[avpaulb]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

Check out my weekend work and questions! (A little bump for me)

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

If the hull does not have any significant flex in it then not replacing the foam is your perogative. As for your transom height. What IS the measurement for your motor as per this pic?

​

Typically a long shaft motor only requires a 20" transom height not a 23". And yes you definetly need to ensure your hull is straight, true, and level sitting on the trailer, befor you begin to install the stringers, bulkheads, transo and decking.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

Soo... R U saying that this measurement from the bottom of the motor mount to the Horizonal Cavitation Plate, NOT the Skeg is 23"

If so, that is a Really long motor. Typically long shaft motors only require a 20" Transom. I'm thinking that may be a Kicker motor for a Sail boat. They have extra long shafts. If it were me, instead of modifying the transom, I'd be looking for another motor.

 

[avpaulb]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

Soo... R U saying that this measurement from the bottom of the motor mount to the Horizonal Cavitation Plate, NOT the Skeg is 23"

If so, that is a Really long motor. Typically long shaft motors only require a 20" Transom. I'm thinking that may be a Kicker motor for a Sail boat. They have extra long shafts. If it were me, instead of modifying the transom, I'd be looking for another motor.

I will take pictures with the applicable measurements so you can see for yourself. I am almost certain that I am measuring correctly. 23"-ish. I'm not at all opposed to selling the motor if needed.

Let me post some pics either tonight or tomorrow, and get your opinion.

 

[avpaulb]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

My measuring techniques:



... good looking dude.

Results:



Let me know your thoughts! Of course, none of these measurements account for the added fiberglass or gelcoat once the repair is completed, but they are pretty close.

And I apologize for the orientation. Stupid Droid. (Stupid user? (Wife))

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

You ARE measuring Correctly! My research tells me that, your motor is the Extra Long Shaft Model. Can you do what you are proposing...? Yes. However. It kind of locks the boat into that style of motor unless, at a later date you cut out and modify the transom to accomodate the standard 20" Long shaft motor. Or I suppose you could put a Jack Plate on it, whick I don't like, but that's just me. If it were me, I'd be looking to make a trade or sell and buy and new standard long shaft motor with a 20" shaft and build the transom in it's orginal configuration. It's your boat, and you have the final say, that's just what I would do.

But then again, I am just an...

 

[avpaulb]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

That sounds good! I'll give a shot at selling it and see what happens! (I'd like to get some more HP anyway)

 

[avpaulb]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

Well, thanks to good ole' MT weather and my lack of storage space... not able to accomplish JACK this week. I've decided to remove the cap tomorrow to start with doing hull repairs and repairs to the cap itself. They both have 43 years worth of holes and cracks, so what the heck.

I'm going to brace the hull to maintain the overall shape, as well as build a basic stand so it can sit on my garage floor for work. This should also give me a chance to do some trailer work.

Any suggestions for basic hull repairs as well as painting would be useful! I'll have pics as well.

Good news for me... I now have a discount at our local "mega-hardware" store thanks to a relative: COST ON ALL SUPPLIES!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1969 Larson - Big Project

Making your own "Filler/Fairing" material is best. This allows you to have more working time and make it to the consistency you like. Resin and 3M Glass Bubbles is what you will need. Wipe it all down with Acetone and Dremel out any gouges and then fill leaving it a bit high. Use 180 to smooth it all out.