got to say that is a good lookin boat imhoi did not dig into mine as deep, the glass stringers were pretty solid on mine so i just used the wire brush on the grinder to rough it up put down the 4 boards that run the beam they hold the 2 boards that make the top of the stringer and glassed over that put a few holes in those replaced the foam cut off what over flowed out the holes and glassed over them, the deck i used 1/4 ply glassed the bottom then over the top with 1/4 inch of glass was trying to keep it light weight, i have a friend who likes to go fast and he keeps on me about weight he means well though he gave me most of the cloth and mat i needed and some pigment he got from west marine to work on his boat also tried to get me to test some new age honeycomb metal material in my transom said it was high dollar stuff the racing boats are using, i went with plywood like it came with. my brother came by today and i was showing him my project, and he said it looked light weight out of curiosity i grabbed the bottom of the transom to feel how heavy, to my suprise i lifted it off the trailer evinrude and all,
these hulls are light as you stated. not sure what the rude adds to the weight but by feel the whole boat can't be much more than 1000-1500lbs if i can squat the heavy end, i mean im strong but not an olympic weightlifter by any means
it lookin good so keep it up, or as ive been told, attaboy way to go. and once again nice lookin boat
Making your own "Filler/Fairing" material is best. This allows you to have more working time and make it to the consistency you like. Resin and 3M Glass Bubbles is what you will need. Wipe it all down with Acetone and Dremel out any gouges and then fill leaving it a bit high. Use 180 to smooth it all out.
I don't suppose you know the mixing quantities of the glass bubbles with resin?
Try these guys in San Diego. http://www.fiberglasswarehouse.com/aboutus3.php
Also For the big gouges don't use Bubbles, they're for the final finish fairing and smooth finish. For more of a structural filler which is what you need for the gouges, use cabosil and a small amount of 1/4" choppped milled fibers. This will fill make it strong as heck. Then use the the bubble mix to do a final fairing and smoothing prior to Paint/Gelcoat.
I would try to sand out as many scratches in your hull as possible.
There are three ways of doing this.. were talking from chine down to keel.
1. If you Know that your going to re-gel the bottom..then sand most of the scratches out with 120ish paper ( whatever you feel comfy with ). Then fill and fair the rest of the deeper scratches and repairs. Then do your gelcoat application ( spray/sand/buff ). We can get into the how too if you go this way.
2. Try to sand/buff out most of the superficial scratches. Start with 320 on a power sander..then hand sand up to 800 and buff.
3. If your going to Paint the bottom .. then sand most of the scratches down with 120..then fill and fair..then apply High Build primer..sand that and then do your smaller fills and fairs. Prep it well and blow some paint on there.
Which way are you leaning towards ?
Those little blowouts on your chines are just air voids..no biggy just fill and fair with some tiger hair filler.
YD.
But by the time you pay shipping from Florida....How do their prices compare???
Went to have a look at a couple of 1959 Johnson 40HP motors a guy has for sale. He has one that runs attached to a 1959 Coronado (?) that he is asking WAY too much for given the boat's condition. But for what he's asking for the other... maybe it's worth it???
Check this out:
View attachment 148256View attachment 148259
It appears to be a 20" shaft, which according to some prior posts should be about right. Only issue is it's steering system versus what I currently have.
Any ideas where I can look up info on this motor with a serial#?
Went to have a look at a couple of 1959 Johnson 40HP motors a guy has for sale.
The link below is a thread in the Engine FAQ's that should answer your questions about OMC (E&J) model numbers/years. FYI, the first year of the 40HP in the Big Twin series was 1960. If it is a 1959 model, then it is only 35HP. Also, these are "old horsepower" motors that were rated at the crankshaft or by the Marketing Department and are 12-15% less powerful than modern motors of the same horsepower. As a pup, I did a lot of skiing behind a 1963 Larson All-American 16ft with a McCulloch three-cylinder 60HP motor and agree with WOG that you may not be happy with the performance of anything less. Good luck!
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=365226