1972 40hp questions

chris16371

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Ok so I'm at a loss with the 1956 30hp Johnson that came on the boat I have, I've worked on it a lot and even took it to a dealer who told me it would cost more to fix then it is worth.

I found a 1972 Johnson 40hp that runs but needs a couple things. He said I can see it run but only for a short amount of time bc it's not pumping water, he said it's the impeller but I'm wondering if it's maybe clogged but either way a water pump kit is probably a good idea. If I can find a service manual I'm pretty sure I can do it myself. Another issue is a piece broken from the timing advance I was told, I attached a picture below with the broken piece and wondering what the actual name for the part is and the difficulty of replacing.

I don't have like any experience with working on outboards besides the little bit of work I did on the 56 30hp and my 15hp Suzuki but the only way to learn is to dig in but don't want to get to in over my head.

My last question is will the control cables from the 56 30hp fit this 72 40hp? Thanks in advance!

Pic of broken piece from timing advance?
 

oldboat1

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rod from cam follower to locking lever -- believe that's part of the starter lock system, limiting ability to pull it over if the throttle is advanced too far. I see flywheel damage, probably from a prior attempt to pull it. I would consider that a serious issue (dangerous issue).

What happened to the 30? Did you ever do a compression check?
 

chris16371

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rod from cam follower to locking lever -- believe that's part of the starter lock system, limiting ability to pull it over if the throttle is advanced too far. I see flywheel damage, probably from a prior attempt to pull it. I would consider that a serious issue (dangerous issue).

What happened to the 30? Did you ever do a compression check?

The guy said the piece that is broke happened recently after he took it out of storage. I seen the chips in the flywheel, I was wondering how it even got damaged bc I don't see where anything would hit there.

I did a compression test on the 30hp and I asked the dealer/repair shop if they would do one as well to double check my findings and all was good and got charged $20 for it lol.
 

jimmbo

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The broken linkage is indeed the recoil interlock. Currently the recoil is probably locked up.
Chips in the flywheel? I can't see any in the pic, just a combination of lighting and dirt making a cutout/bolt hole look nasty.
The control cables that fit on a 56 engine will fit a 72
Service manual. Your 40hp is of a design more like a 57 35hp than the later 35/40hp listed here, but most things you need are in this manual. There are some changes with the propshaft, your engine doesn't have an auto choke. a 72 will have fixed hi speed jet, fuel pump is different. Hey, it's free!

http://www.fiberglassics.com/library...service002.pdf
 
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chris16371

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The broken linkage is indeed the recoil interlock. Currently the recoil is probably locked up.
Chips in the flywheel? I can't see any in the pic, just a combination of lighting and dirt making a cutout/bolt hole look nasty.
The control cables that fit on a 56 engine will fit a 72
Service manual. Your 40hp is of a design more like a 57 35hp than the later 35/40hp listed here, but most things you need are in this manual. There are some changes with the propshaft, your engine doesn't have an auto choke. a 72 will have fixed hi speed jet, fuel pump is different. Hey, it's free!

http://www.fiberglassics.com/library...service002.pdf

I forgot that that the ad says it comes with controls but being the controls I have will fit it will save me some install time. I figure for $225 it would be worth it to fix. Then I'll sell the 30hp to someone who knows about it for cheap to recover some of my loss.

I'm having an issue finding the water pump kit for the 72 40hp 40E72E. I see most Johnson come in kits for around $50-$100 but I can only find individual pieces. Some pieces are $10-$15 and others $80-$100, just for individual pieces not a kit. What pieces are absolutely necessary to replace? If I buy all of them listed it will cost over $200 just for water pump.
 

racerone

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??----You inspect existing parts before rushing out to squander money on complete kits.---Usually a new impeller is all that is required.---Those 40 hp motors from 71 to 76 are elegantly simple to work on for those who want to do the maintenance at home.
 

chris16371

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??----You inspect existing parts before rushing out to squander money on complete kits.---Usually a new impeller is all that is required.---Those 40 hp motors from 71 to 76 are elegantly simple to work on for those who want to do the maintenance at home.

No I'm not buying anything for it till I look it over. I also can't tear it apart in his driveway before I buy it to see if it's going to cost me $50 in parts or $250 in parts so I'm seeing if it's common to replace the more expensive water pump items like the the impeller housing which is $90 and plate contents which is $50. I also would not have an issue buying the full kit if it were at a reasonable price and replacing everything while I'm in there. Kinda like my bike, I didn't need to replace the carb float, manifold seals, vaccum hoses but since I had it tore apart I figured I better just in case. I generally like to replace things that show wear before it becomes a problem.
 

racerone

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I guess every body works to different standards.---Good luck if you end up with it.
 

chris16371

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I guess every body works to different standards.---Good luck if you end up with it.

Thank you, I appreciate it. I completely understand what your saying though, I'm not going to rush out and buy parts I don't know if I need. If there's minimal wear I won't replace. My luck usually is I fix something put it all back together and then have to tear it back apart in a week to fix something else so now I use my best judgment and if it's minimal cost difference to replace the other parts then I will do it but with more expensive parts a more in depth look is needed.
 

chris16371

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I guess another question would be how do I found out if it's short or long shaft? Need to find out the same for the 30hp.

I better do a tune up as well. Suggestions other than carb cleaning, plugs and wires?
 

chris16371

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http://www.iboats.com/Gearcase/dm/*******.007532716--**********.099388808--view_id.1550103 shows what the 5" extension looks like

Other things to do/check regarding the tune up. Points, coils(driver as well as the 2 ignition coils on the 40), the 30 hp uses a slightly different system, Both ignition systems are interchangeable, but only as complete units. A complete ignition to carb linkage sync.

I believe I have a short shaft transom. If the motor is long shaft I can just remove the extension correct?
 

jimmbo

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I believe I have a short shaft transom. If the motor is long shaft I can just remove the extension correct?

No, you just can't remove the extension. The driveshaft, shift shaft, have to be changed. The water tube, may be longer or there is an extender. Changing the shift shaft requires the disassembly of the gearcase.
 

F_R

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Depends on whether or not it left the factory as a long shaft, or if it was converted to long afterwards. If it was converted, it very well may have a 5" longer shift rod connector. In that case, just replace it with a short connector. But yes, the drive shaft is either long or short.
 

chris16371

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No, you just can't remove the extension. The driveshaft, shift shaft, have to be changed. The water tube, may be longer or there is an extender. Changing the shift shaft requires the disassembly of the gearcase.

Lol yeah I figured you would have to switch a few things since the size is being reduced. I didn't know if the extension was permanent.

If anyone has a service manual they would scan and send me I would appreciate it, could even pay. Going to look at it tomorrow and if I do buy it there's a marina that has the parts I need so was going to start replacing parts this weekend.
 

chris16371

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Thank you, I appreciate it. Even though 72 isn't listed it's the same pretty much?

Figuring out how to wire it hopefully goes smooth. How do you wire the electric choke? It has a manual choke on the front if I have to use it but the electric would be nice. It did end up having the extension to make it long shaft, I'll have to see where it sits once I get it on boat.

Do I need to use an actual marine battery? I'm only going to use the battery to start the motor so I was wondering if I could save $100 and buy a lawn mower battery or something. Also does anyone know the gas mixture?
 

jimmbo

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The second link has info and specs for your year of engine, especially the ignition system, at least that what the cover page inplies.
I included the first link as it does have info pertaining to older engines, 1957 35hp. that have more in common with your 1971 engine, than the 1960 - 1970 40hp. As that sounds a little confusing, maybe you should ignore the first(upper) link

Gas and oil are mixed 50:1. Use a TCW3 oil. Myself I would spend a few $ more and buy the BRP XD50, it is very good oil. Others will having different opinions about oils.
Marine batteries are built sturdier than Auto versions. Again, others opinions may vary on that. I got 14 seasons out of my last Marine Battery and it still tested at 70% capacity. I replaced it with another of the same brand.
Wiring the electric choke... does it still have the choke solenoid mounted near the carb? Page A-33 is the only wiring diagram for the 71 - 73 40hp I could locate, but it say with generator, which yours doesn't have
http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/...rude.html#/618. The first link had a wiring diagram on page 59...
 
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chris16371

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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May 19, 2017
Messages
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The second link has info and specs for your year of engine, especially the ignition system, at least that what the cover page inplies.
I included the first link as it does have info pertaining to older engines, 1957 35hp. that have more in common with your 1971 engine, than the 1960 - 1970 40hp. As that sounds a little confusing, maybe you should ignore the first(upper) link

Gas and oil are mixed 50:1. Use a TCW3 oil. Myself I would spend a few $ more and buy the BRP XD50, it is very good oil. Others will having different opinions about oils.
Marine batteries are built sturdier than Auto versions. Again, others opinions may vary on that. I got 14 seasons out of my last Marine Battery and it still tested at 70% capacity. I replaced it with another of the same brand.
Wiring the electric choke... does it still have the choke solenoid mounted near the carb? Page A-33 is the only wiring diagram for the 71 - 73 40hp I could locate, but it say with generator, which yours doesn't have
http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/...rude.html#/618. The first link had a wiring diagram on page 59...

I'll have to see today if the solenoid is mounted near the carb. Everything already has wires installed, I just need to wire to a keyed ignition, I'm assuming the electric choke doesn't get wired to the keyed ignition? The seller demonstrated what each of the wires does, you could hear the electric choke engage when he touched 2 of the wires together as well he showed me they all worked properly.

I need an engine side fuel connector. I know Walmart sells a connector that looks very similar, has Johnson stayed with the same connector over the years?

I wasn't able to open the second link, my phone doesn't have flash player but I'll look at it on my computer after work.

I ordered a service manual off of eBay anyways, probably be good to have on hand.
 

chris16371

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I guess my question about the electric choke is do I wire to a separate toggle switch or to the keyed ignition so when I turn key to start it chokes also?

Are all 72 models 50th Anniversary? Does this motor charge the battery while it's running? I'm assuming so but not positive since not all outboards do.
 
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