1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

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Feb 17, 2012
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Re: 1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

marksa you have skipped a few steps which is why you are finding that the hull is flexing. As you have already started and removed a lot of the internal structure I would leave the boat on the trailer and add extra 2 by 4 timber to give the hull more support to the trailer. It doesn't have to be pretty but it needs to stop the boat splaying as you are walking around in the hull. I personally would try to add wood so it acts like another set of bunks near the outer bottom edge of the hull and probably 2 pieces up the side of the hull.
The pictures look like the floor over the foam rotted out and was removed then new glass was layed over the old foam but I may be wrong. Take lots of measurements and pictures and just replace with ply then after they are fixed and glassed in drill holes and pour in foam. Looks like you are doing a good job so far :)
 

marksa1458

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Re: 1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

Thanks glenn - I did add some bunks, will take a picture and load later today. My main concern is making sure the hull is as true as possible. My plan is to replace things in 4 sections. Port side engine stringer section, port side bow floor, starboard side engine stringer and then starboard side bow floor. My thoughts for doing this way is that it is a big hull and it is easier to move around with some structure left. Also, even though I have the dimensions recorded, I have a template to verify things.

Will the hull continue to flex until the engine/drivetrain is re-installed?
 
Joined
Feb 17, 2012
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2,906
Re: 1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

no the hull will be solid once the floor is back in as thats what really holds the shape of the boat.

I rebuilt a boat in sections and it worked well for me but I would suggest adding some cut out notch's (fiberglassed) in the stringers so water can drain out of any section just in case it rains and the cover gets blown off etc. Then just before you install the floor fill the notch's with PB or just let the pour-foam fill the notch in. Also use plastic drop cloth over the new fiberglass after it has dried so you do not end up getting it covered in dust when you grind out the next section.
 

marksa1458

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Re: 1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

Here are some of the temp bunks i made to give things a little more support.







I will be using epoxy and cloth for re-installation of things and the pour in foam. I was planning on cleaning with acetone first, but do I need to sand any place I plan on using the epoxy of will the foam adhere to the fiberglass hull?
 

marksa1458

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Re: 1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

I was also able to fit in my garage (just barely) it will be tight, but I have someplace dry to work on it!!!!
 

marksa1458

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Apr 6, 2009
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Re: 1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

The fellow that I purchased the boat from stated that he intended to relocate the exhaust to below the water line - Any thoughts? I'm sure this would quiet things down a bit, it is easy to do - Is this a good idea?
 

marksa1458

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Re: 1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

Need some guidance. I have spent the last several days reading countless threads and info on two part pourable foam. From what I have read no matter what you do and even if it is closed cell it will eventually absorb water and need to be replaced. In this boat the foam serves a structural process and I can't just go with out it. The other issue is that all these two part foams need temps above 70 degrees to expand correctly. Given that it is fall in New England those days are in short supply.

Can anyone point me in another direction? Or suggest some alternatives? I have to admit this is the only part of the restoration that has me completely bewildered. Thanks
 

jones01m

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May 23, 2011
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Re: 1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

Marksa, Maybe the attached link can help. I shared your concern about the foam being structural on my rebuild. I poured 4lb foam followed by 2lb foam because of the structural concern. In addition to the attached link for foam discussion, I also put in some simple drains where I articulated the process a bit in my Arabian thread - I don't know if they are necessary but the drains are in there now anyway. Drains would be just a few additional hours of work for you.

As far as the temperatures go, I put each component of the two part foam system in front of a small heater to get them HOT. Nothing will stop the reaction once they are hot, not even the cold day. The foam system used was USComposites

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...pour-foam-recommendations-process-535442.html
 

marksa1458

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Apr 6, 2009
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Re: 1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

Thanks for the info - I didn't realize the material only needs to be at temperature. That will be much easier to do.

If you were doing it again, would you still to do the 4lb followed by the 2lb? Did you do a 50/50 mix? Thanks for the guidance
 

jones01m

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May 23, 2011
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Re: 1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

Marksa, yes I would put the 4 lb down first again. I put the 4lb down prior to installing the ply for the sole. It covered the glass of the hull relatively well and dried hard as a rock but did not deform the hull since it was not pushing up against the plywood. Once I installed the ply, holes were drilled where the 2lb foam could be poured through into the cavity. The hull beneath still did not deform because the previously poured 4lb stiffened everything up. Now it all works as a single structure as the 2lb foam ties everything together with the hull form staying original.
 

marksa1458

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Re: 1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

Makes perfect sense. Thanks for the tip
 

marksa1458

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Apr 6, 2009
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Re: 1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

progress update - one of the stringers has been replaced and part of the transom:



Ordered some 4# density foam to start filling back in - coming along nicely. Also installed the first part of the motor stringer and will get pics up later.
 
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marksa1458

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Apr 6, 2009
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Re: 1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

Started the foam process. Nothing like I anticipated and messy as hell, but progress none the less





Once the foam is under the motor mounts I will coat everything in epoxy for the final installation.
 

marksa1458

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Apr 6, 2009
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Re: 1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

Moving along. Have the deck mocked in and the deck support epoxied in place




 

marksa1458

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Apr 6, 2009
Messages
93
Re: 1975 Century Arabian - Total Restore

Finally got some warmer weather and got the transom in. Looks good



 

BOATBASTID

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Jun 14, 2014
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Hey guys..
I just purchased a 76 Century Arabian 180, 233hp 351 with velvet/v-drive. I was getting a growling from what I thought was the "v-drive" but was not sure if it was bent prop shaft.....??? I diconected prop shaft and dropped her in gear. Still have a slight growl, but not as much as when connected. How much noise should those v-drives make?? I think I have a slight bent in prop shaft. any input? Love this boat!!! had several sqirt boats, and ski boats, but wanted something different.
 
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