1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

[yjanray]

Hello,

I am in the process of pulling up the deck of my SRV 190. I have most of it up, and have exposed the foam. I have yet to find any screws or any type of fastener which held the deck in place. From what I can tell, the deck was glassed to the foam and the hull of the boat.
So my questions are, how was the deck held in place and what is below the foam? I have not come across any wooden stringers yet, only a 'shelf' of fiberglass what is approximately 3-inches wide, which runs along the perimeter of the hull about 6-inches below the deck. I am trying to figure out what is below the foam. I am not wanting to remove the foam just yet, as I am not sure that I want to replace it.

Thanks for your help

This is the only picture of the boat I have at this time, which isn't really a help with visualizing what I'm talking about, but its sweet memories of a great past summer :-(

http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/xx148/yjander228/DSC04194.jpg
Yorke

 

[erikgreen]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

Sea Ray boats of that age were built in modules, with the deck and the structure under it assembled upside down on a flat floor using staples, then inverted and placed in the boat, (except possibly the stringers - I think they were spray glassed into the hull).

Before the deck module was placed, glue was put in strategic locations so the structure would adhere. After it was lowered into the hull, the deck was spray glassed to the hull (also to cover it), and foam injected below deck through drilled holes in the decking - these holes and their inadequate plugs have been the main source of water below decks in my Sea Ray boats (SRV210 1981 and SRV220 1973).

The only fasteners I ever found securing my deck to the structure were staples that rusted, and the deck was mostly held in by the glass joint to the hull.

I'd be willing to bet under that foam you'll find only the main stringers, a cross piece or two near the front of the motor compartment, maybe one other cross piece in another location forward (neither one touching the hull) and staples used throughout.

If the foam is wet, I'd remove it. Unfortunately you'll need to either replace it or build some basic structure to replace the support the foam gave. Check the bulkhead at the front of the engine for rot, those like to go, and they're not isolated from the stringers, so the rot spreads.

Good luck,
Erik

PS: I'd be willing to bet the "shelf" you found is actually your first (or last, depending on which way you count) chine.

 

[yjanray]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

Thanks for the response erik. Unfortunately, I have limited time to work on my boat, since I live about 2.5 hours away from where its stored this winter. My time to restore is limited only to the weekends when I can get up there. So far, the deck has been removed from the two consoles at the bow, all the way back to the stern. I have found rot all around the bilge containment area, as well as along the sides of the back half of the hull, where the deck meets the hull. Do you think I could remove some of the foam, and replace the remove foam with some new pour in foam from uscomposites?

Thanks
Yorke

 

[erikgreen]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

I'm sure you can replace the foam that way, no problem. But you'll need to find out what's rotted before you do, otherwise all you're doing is getting some of the moisture out.

Plus foam can be dry on the surface but have a half inch soaked layer on the bottom at the hull.

My advice: Bite the bullet and spend a day pulling all the foam out in big chunks. You don't know what you'll need to do until you can see everything under decks. If you had saturated foam anywhere under decks, I'd be willing to bet you need to replace at least part of the stringers and maybe a bulkhead.

On the upside you'll lighten your boat a lot... my 210 felt like it was dancing after I got all that weight out of it.

Keep the big chunks of foam that are totally dry. You can put them back in the hull later and pour new expandable foam over them to glue them in place and into one piece. It'll save money on buying foam later.

Erik

PS: Best tool I've found for foam is a coarse saw with a thin blade. Cut the foam in the hull into 1x1 foot squares and pop them out with a pry bar. I've also used an electric chainsaw to do this, which can gouge the hull if you're not careful, but works wonders in time savings.

 

[yjanray]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

Hello Again,

So I have finally removed the foam from the rear half of the boat yesterday. Currently I am in the process of figuring out the stringers (thats a whole other thread). My question is regarding the foam application. So i have removed a about 6 to 8 feet of foam from the rear of the boat to the consoles. My first question is which density foam do I need. The boat is a 79 Sea Ray. During the removal of the deck, it appeared the foam helps support the decking. if that is the case, would I need to get a heavier density, say the 4lb density from us composites, or could i stick with the cheaper 2lb density foam? I will post some pics and some other info later, as things move on.

Thanks
Yorke

 

[erikgreen]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

2 lb is fine... if it's structural then 4 lb, but that's not likely... 2 lb for floatation is fine. If you have some dry chunks of foam from the stuff you took out, you can toss 'em back in and foam around them.


I've sometimes thought it would be good to stick little bags of alka-seltzer in the compartments that aren't supposed to get wet, ever... if your deck starts foaming up, head in to shore and look for the problem.

 

[yjanray]

Begining Sea Ray SRV 190 repair

Begining Sea Ray SRV 190 repair

Hello,

I have just recently started restoring/repairing my 79 SRV 190. I have removed most of decking and foam, and I am starting to rip out the stringers. I was going to buy some wood today, but wan't quite sure which kind of wood to use for the stringers. The old ones look like they were a combo of plywood, sometimes two layers, and solid wood. The stringers along the outside of the hull looked to be like 2x4's, but the stringers that run along the middle of the boat, on each side of the gas tank were taller and consisted of plywood. I was wondering if I could use some solid wood, like 2x8's or does the plywood work just as well (assuming it is glassed in, not like the original stringers). As far as the decking, I was planning on 1/2" outdoor, and was going to let it dry for a week or so before glassing it. Attached are some pics, its a slow process, but I am very hopeful to have her back on the water before toooo long. Any suggestions or comments are warmly recieved

Thanks for all the help!
Yorke

http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/xx148/yjander228/DSC05611.jpg

http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/xx148/yjander228/DSC05610.jpg
http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/xx148/yjander228/DSC05618.jpg

 

[yjanray]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

Cool, Thanks Erik.

I am going to stick with the 2lb foam. Its cheaper, and I am hoping to get some additional support from the new stringers I am going to install. It looked like the original deck got most of its strength from the foam. I mean I could walk on the foam after I took the deck off.

I like the early warning system idea

Most of the foam I removed was dry. There were little pockets of water in the middle, but the foam itself was dry. I am going to try and throw some of the larger chunks back in, and then just fill in the voids with some pour-in foam.

 

[Robert4Winns]

Re: Begining Sea Ray SRV 190 repair

Re: Begining Sea Ray SRV 190 repair

Plywood would be stronger and more stable than solid wood of the same size. That is what I am using for my stringers.

 

[yjanray]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

Why is plywood stronger? Wouldn't a solid piece of wood be sturdier?

Also, last night i finally got to the rear of the boat...Now i'm just another old boat owner with a rotten transom :-(

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

Ply wood has alternating grains. Much stronger than a solid piece of wood with 1 grain.

 

[yjanray]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

Thanks. That makes sense. Would 1/2" ply work alright for stringers, or should I get a thicker wood for the stringers? I will post some pics tonight of my situation.

 

[yjanray]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Stringer Removal

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Stringer Removal

Alright, finally got some pictures. I am working on tearing out the remaining fiberglass mixed with rotten wood that once were the stringers. I am only cutting the deck and stringers up to the two consoles. I found out that the transom was rotten last night. I do not have the tools, means, or skills to remove the engine and all of the transom assemblies associated with the stern drive. So I am going to get someone to do the transom for me. He said he could do a foam core transom or a epoxy sealed wood transom. I am opting for the wood transom, but what are the benefits of the foam transom? besides probably lasting forever....I figured a properly sealed with epoxy ply transom would last just as long?

After the transom is complete, I am going to build the stringers and replace the deck. I have a few questions regarding the stringers along the perimeter of the interior and how to attach the stringers to the hull? ( I believe its called bedding?) There is a lip of fiberglass that runs around the perimeter of the boat. I was thinking of a small 2x2 along the perimeter of the boat that tucks beneath the lip, and the just put the new decking underneath the lip? You can see the lip in the 3rd and 4th picture below.

Anyway, here are some pictures of what I've been able to do so far.
Thanks for looking
Yorke

Before with the foam

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Here is what she looks like as of tonight

Front where the gas line used to be. Man that thing was fiberglassed in there....

 

[yjanray]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck and stringer replacement

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck and stringer replacement

Can I move the boat on the trailer about 30 miles or so without the deck or stringers? I am worried about the strength of the hull without any additional support from the deck.

 

[Fordiesel69]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

If the bunks are in a position that they rest on the transom, then no problem. If not, just be gentle on the bumps and keep the back strapped so it cannot bounce up and slam back down.

What made you take this on in the firstplace? I bet you cold have enjoyed 5-7 more years easy if you kept it dry. I like these SRV;s myself so I will be following this thread. I will never redo mine like that. Too much work for me.

 

[LOWboater]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

The hull alone would be awful floppy no? there's no floor, stringers or deck.
If you grab the sides around where your numbers are, you could probably push the side in about a foot with little pressure.
I'd be wary of moving it more than across the yard without bracing it up across the middle.

 

[Fordiesel69]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

So, what kind of time frame do you have in mind to getting this back on the water? I can;t wait to see the outcome of this. I bet it will be sweet when it is done.

 

[oops!]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

Alright, finally got some pictures. I am working on tearing out the remaining fiberglass mixed with rotten wood that once were the stringers. I am only cutting the deck and stringers up to the two consoles. I found out that the transom was rotten last night. I do not have the tools, means, or skills to remove the engine and all of the transom assemblies associated with the stern drive. So I am going to get someone to do the transom for me. He said he could do a foam core transom or a epoxy sealed wood transom. I am opting for the wood transom, but what are the benefits of the foam transom? besides probably lasting forever....I figured a properly sealed with epoxy ply transom would last just as long?

the wood epoxy/polyester fiberglassed transom will last 40 or more years if taken care of.

After the transom is complete, I am going to build the stringers and replace the deck. I have a few questions regarding the stringers along the perimeter of the interior and how to attach the stringers to the hull? ( I believe its called bedding?)

the stringers are bedded with many different types of compounds.....some use pl 9000 construction glue.....some use peanut butter (a polyester resin mixture) the hull extension thread is the same boat and has detailed pictures of the process

There is a lip of fiberglass that runs around the perimeter of the boat. I was thinking of a small 2x2 along the perimeter of the boat that tucks beneath the lip, and the just put the new decking underneath the lip? You can see the lip in the 3rd and 4th picture below.

the stringers will give the deck height. add some cross frames to the top of the stringers to screw the deck to...(see the hull thread) you dont need the 2x2 the gap between the old and the new is filled with peanut butter and glassed over

If the bunks are in a position that they rest on the transom, then no problem. If not, just be gentle on the bumps and keep the back strapped so it cannot bounce up and slam back down.

this is correct IF it is a bunk trailer. dont do it with a roller trailer.....a flat bed would be better if its a roller

What made you take this on in the firstplace? I bet you cold have enjoyed 5-7 more years easy if you kept it dry. I like these SRV;s myself so I will be following this thread. I will never redo mine like that. Too much work for me.

we do it for many reasons....but driving your boat that you just rebuilt with your bare hands is one of the most rewarding things to
do.

cheers
oops

 

[oops!]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

by the way.....the stringers must be bedded so the wood does not touch the hull.
this would create a hard joint and cause fiberglass cracks.

you can use just about anything to hold the stringers off the hull....any kind of shim...about 1/4 inch or less some manufacturers use foam to hold the stringers off the hull....some use cork shims

if you do use foam....cover it completely with fiberglass after so water never gets in there or you will rot the stringers in a dozen years

 

[yjanray]

Re: 1979 Sea Ray SRV 190 Deck/Foam

Thanks FD69. I took on this project because I might be slightly dumb. When I got it, the floor was solid and I was pretty happy. But it still had the original 79 interior, so we (me and my fianc?e) wanted to redo the interior. Well big surprise when you rip up the carpet, we find a soft spot in the deck that was rotten. Well the more you dig, the more you find, and I just didn't' know when to stop, and before I knew it, was down to the bare hull and staring at a rotten transom. We originally wanted to only get 4 or 5 more years out of the old boat. But the more and more we look at her, and the more I read about the classic rays, the more we fall in love with the classy look of the SRV. So I decided to try and get her restored this spring, and hope to have it out again by the mid summer (end of may/beginning of june, but thats probably a little over zealous).

@Oops!!
Thank you for the great info. I have never done any glass work, so this is all greek to me. I am still pretty uncomfortable with the bedding the stringers to the hull, but I guess the best thing to do is to jump in and see what happens. It will probably be a few weeks before I start to work on the stringers and deck, because I have to get the new transom in first. I can only imagine the feeling of driving that boat you built! You did an amazing job with that thing, I am about 10 pages into your thread, but cheated a little and skipped ahead to take a look at the final outcome.

As far as moving the boat...I am just going to make sure the transom is securely tied down to the trailer (which is a bunk trailer) and then put a strap across the middle of the boat, and just take it easy.

Anyway, sorry for the long winded post, but I will keep everyone updated once I start working on it again.