1981 Bayliner 17' Bowrider Refurb

[jbcurt00]

I'd recommend not using pressure treated. Esp not typical lumber yard PT ply. Usually damp/wet w PT chemicals, which makes it heavy and warp as it dries. It can also inhibit the penetration by resin to bind the glass to the stringer.

Kiln dries PT is available in some markets or by special order.

Epoxy or polyester resin w the glass?

 

[oldoutboardkid]

Unfortunately we have already purchased the plywood, and will be using polyester resin (Evercoat Boater's Choice).

 

[jbcurt00]

Hope it's dry and stays flat

 

[oldoutboardkid]

It seems to be dry and we have it under the boat on the garage floor, which stays dry.

 

[sphelps]

Yep the reg pt ply you get at the box stores is really not what you want to use ... If you had it out baking in the sun for a month or so it might be ok ...
Your making good progress .. Make sure you wear the proper PPE when the grinding starts .... The fiberglass dust is some bad stuff for your lungs ...
Keep up the good work !
Btw ,,, you should get the poly resin with no wax ... Otherwise you will need to sand in between coats ..

 

[Woodonglass]

Most places that I deal with are more than happy to take back any plywood that I have purchased and replace it with another sheet of another kind. You really should try to at least make an attempt to do this. The PT Plywood is NOT a good choice. Also, the Boaters choice resin DOES contain Wax and that is NOT what you want to use for your repairs. 2 reasons. It's more expensive and as previously stated it will cause you a lot of headaches in your layups. You will need a minimum of 10 gallons of resin and 10-15 yards of CSM and some 1708 Fiberglass Cloth/Fabric to complete the work on your boat. I'd HIGHLY recommend you do some reading and investigating here on the forum to familiarize yourself with the methods and products that the members have used. It will save you a lot of problems in the future. A Non-Waxed Laminatin resin is what you should use along with 1.5oz Chopped strand mat.

This has a lot of good info for you to get started...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

 

[oldoutboardkid]

Thanks for the advice everyone!

 

[oldoutboardkid]

More grinding done today along with getting the livewell in the splashwell removed. Pics to come later on as well as part 4 video.

 

[oldoutboardkid]

Today's progress:

Livewell removed from splashwell:



The livewell itself:



Tomorrow I am going to stop in where I work and pick up another Tyvek suit, the drain tubes for the splashwell and bilge, as well as get 1 more LED companionway light and the nav and anchor lights, as well as bring home my holesaw kit to get the courtesy lights cut in.

Part 4 video if anyone is interested in watching:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwQG4Abquxs&feature=youtu.be

 

[oldoutboardkid]

More progress made this week:

Back wall of the livewell box cut, fiberglassed with cloth, screwed into place and fiberglassed on the backside with CSM, side facing the transom will be PB'ed and fiberglassed in with CSM and cloth.



Back side of the back wall



The 2x4 will be removed prior to installation of the well.

Filling old holes with Life Calk:









I used blue painter's tape on the back side of the larger holes and I will be cutting the calk flush with a razor blade once it cures.



Fiberglassing the back wall of the livewell box and a new piece of transom wood for under the splashwell that will be tied into the new stringers.

Like I said in an earlier post, my dad and I are not totally restoring this boat, just refurbishing it to the point where it is structurally sound and can be used to go to the beach, take it fishing, etc

 

[sphelps]

Are you planning on painting the topside ?

 

[oldoutboardkid]

No, however we will be painting the deck with gray nonskid paint, and the bow and splashwell areas white. We will however clean up the topsides as good as possible and compound and polish it as well.

 

[sphelps]

I was just thinking on the caulk that you used to fill the little holes ... You could have dremeled a little V groove and used some structural filler . Sanded and touched up with some white gell ... The color would never match perfectly but would hold up much better than the caulking ...
Just throwing it out there ..

 

[Woodonglass]

I agree ^^^ Life Caulk is good stuff, but...not really appropriate for this application.

 

[oldoutboardkid]

My dad and I have decided to paint the deck and bow areas with Rustoleum Marine Paint, Oyster White on the bow area, splashwell, and gunwales, and Battleship Gray on the deck with the Non skid additive, can anyone who has used this paint before give me an idea on how much a quart will cover?

 

[oldoutboardkid]

More progress today:

Final layer of CSM on the backside of the new bulkhead for the splashwell:



1st layer of CSM on the customized bow area:





The 2 holes cut are for a pair of 6x9 speakers for the stereo.

Livewell mocked into position:





Trim and tilt unit cleaned and prepped for primer, paint, and a new trim motor:

 

[oldoutboardkid]

New stringers built and being glassed:



New transom wood installed and glassed into place, plus thru bolted:



Part 5 video in case anyone is interested:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PNAvChDbow

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmmm the strength of the transom comes from the tabbing to the hull. I don't see any. Are you planning on it??

 

[oldoutboardkid]

Uhmmm the strength of the transom comes from the tabbing to the hull. I don't see any. Are you planning on it??

Yes, need to pick up some 1708 first, as well as some cabosil and 1/4" chop strand, luckily I have a fiberglass supplier (LBI fiberglass) close to where I live.

 

[oldoutboardkid]

Since my dad has not been feeling well recently, and he is doing most of the fiberglass work, I have decided to get some stuff done on the engine over the past couple of days.

Trim and tilt unit primed and painted, and a new aftermarket Arco trim motor installed:

3 coats of Evinrude/Johnson zinc phosphate primer:



4 Coats of Evinrude/Johnson powerhead black:



Also, we are planning on taking a ride to LBI and picking up some more resin, some 1708, cabosil and 1/4" chop, should 10 yards of 1708 be enough to tab in the stringers and transom wood?