1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

[jspano]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

i removed the rib closest to the transom and believe it or not the alum under it is in really good shape. the foam which held the salt water that caused all this actually sealed the ribs. i'm thinking of removing the 6 ribs just to be sure and it will give an Opportunity to install one solid sheet of alum.
i would treat the entire area with gulvit first.

i need input.......please

does it sound do able

joe

 

[evildocrsx]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

I imagine this is not what you want to hear, but wouldn't it be more cost effective to try and find a cleaner hull to work on?

 

[CheapboatKev]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

My opinion..

I wouldnt worry about the ribs so much...maybe fill em somehow with a metal putty of your choice..

The actually deck/skin I would wire wheel the heck outta her, clean her and gluv it the heck outta it, and skin on top of that..

Worth a try to salvage what ya got..and hey..get a GOOD bilge pump.

 

[jspano]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

i'm going to give it a shot.

i need help on rivits and i know i read somewhere on here about some one wanting to adhere a transom to the boat and was advised not to do it as you'ld never get back out ... what was that adhesive??? i want to use it

joe

 

[evildocrsx]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

i'm going to give it a shot.

i need help on rivits and i know i read somewhere on here about some one wanting to adhere a transom to the boat and was advised not to do it as you'ld never get back out ... what was that adhesive??? i want to use it

joe

Gluvit or 3m 5200?

 

[jspano]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

i plan on using the gluvits on the clean alum hull ( to try to seal and level ) and poss the 5200 on adhering the new skin to the old alond with some rivits

i need advise on the rivits and the tools to do it


joe

 

[Azonic]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

I vote

remove ribs, have them remade.

Buy sheet of aluminum and shape it to the hull...

Rivet the outer edge after sealing the edge.

Then have a pro weld the new aluminum to the hull through the holes.
This will seal the holes, and create a bond between the old and new..

Remember though, welding older oxidized aluminum is a near magical task...

 

[jspano]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

thanks to all !!!!!

right now i am taking a rib out a day after work. 2 down possible 4 to go.
any pitting has stopped at the ribs. i have a source that has signs from the county and is going to drop off abunch this week. i will see on the size and condition. i was told they use quality alum in those signs. if not i'll buy what i need..
i'm checking out rivets right now. i think i need 3/16 closed end????

we cleaned off a couiple of small areas and they come out shiney as a nickel.

will post some pics as i go.
this turning out to be more than i thought...but than again who knows what i am ever thinking anyway.
the way i'm looking at it is it's mainly labor.

i don't see too many starcraft's down here in this size away from the lakes.

joe

 

[Rickairmedic]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

Joe 3/16" closed end rivets will work just fine thats what I used to fill all the extra holes in my hull . I will recomend drilling your holes from inside the hull and putting the rivets in from outside the hull then simply apply some more gluvit to the rivets on the inside once your done .

Rick

 

[evildocrsx]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

1) Clean the area where the corrosion is using a wire brush.

2) Apply Gluvit to the corroded area..

3) Make a patch and mold it to the area that needs to be covered.

4) Set in place and drill holes following Rick's instructions.

5) Before actually placeing rivets, put 3M 5200 in between the layers. Kind of like a mayo sandwich.

6) Place rivets again following Rick's instructions.

7) Then coat entire patch with Gluvit again.

That should take care of the corroded area and probably won't leak from there.

 

[jspano]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

thanks rick and ev that's what my plan is. should have some work done over the week end will ost some pics.

thanks
joe

 

[JimbC]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

jspano Sorry to see your hull is in this bad of shape. It looks more to me like the PO had electrical grounds to the hull, yes some of that could be salt water corrosion, but also with electrical grounds helping it. That is going to be a lot of work to fix and fix right and safely. You will need a really good aluminum welder for a job like this. Not to be getting to personal but how much $ are you into this thing so far? If not to much you might be better off to cut your losses and scrap that one keep everything that is worth keeping and part out on eBay.
Or find out what the smallest size hull you can use the ribs from and find a really cheap one strip the ribs from it to replace the ones in this boat. Or you could do the first and scarp this one and check into these and offer the lowest possible price. You never know. To help you out here are a few listed in your state. Now the last one might seem a bit pricey, but if you were to figer out how much you will sink into the one you have I bet it would be close to the same. That last one really is a good buy seeing all it has and the shape it seems to be in. Just a thought.
http://lakeland.craigslist.org/boa/1478946701.html
http://lakeland.craigslist.org/boa/1480577783.html
http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/col/boa/1487541598.html

 

[jspano]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

thanks jim

i think we can pull this off, i pulled 2 ribs and my son went to town on the hull. we actually have 2 small holes in the hull. i'm going to try and patch them and then lay a new pc of alum over the patch and seal and rivet those 2 areas. we will then jack the boat and level it and gluvit the corrosion pits.
i have a shop who said they could make new ribs. i'm going to bring them one tommorow for price.

plan b
new bilge pump

[/IMG]

 

[Azonic]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

That bilge pump will double as a kicker if needed!!
A jet drive kicker that is!!

Good idea...

 

[jspano]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

well i removed 2 ribs and have been playing with the marine-tex on the weak spots and the corrison area on one rib. i waited for it to cure and placed it in the fork of a tree and started to flex it to see if any poppong or cracking and i was very happy with the results. i bought some 5200 (11.00 a tube???) ordered my rivets and had a friend get me some alum signs from the cty mainatance, for my patches. i plan on using the marine tex on the cleaned hull, sand and apply small alum patch with the 5200 and rivets.

funny thing the signs my friend gave me have "no boat trailer parking" printed on 1 side.

still having a hard time finding extruded polystreline for floation

we've been wet but got 3 sea trout over the weekend

joe

 

[jspano]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

you can see the damage stops where the rib was

[/IMG]


inside of rib with marine-tex and cloth

[/IMG]

top side of hole

[/IMG]

corrison on rib

[/IMG]

finished rib

[/IMG]

[/IMG]

joe

 

[jspano]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

got a little time to work on the boat today. tommorow i plan on taking the gas tank out of the bow and all the spray foam they used to secure it in place. and will try to get all the salt corrosion out.
played with some damage today

[/IMG]

patched using marine-tex and alittle cloth

[/IMG]

salt water corrosion

[/IMG]

this area was skimmed with marine-tex

had to work on wifes car most of the morning... trunk was leaking...
sounds like a continuing theme. LOL


joe

 

[mikezohsix]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

I'd think twice about thinking that the putty is going to do anything structural for that rib.

You might want to have it remade out of cut tube, or weld some aluminum plate formed to match over the original rib. You need to replace the corroded aluminum with some thing substantial if you want that rib to be as strong as it was.

just my two cents....

 

[jspano]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

i patched a rib to see how this product worked. i patched a hole, i was worried that it would pop when flexed, that's why i wedged it between the fork of the tree. i started to flex it and actually cracked the rib after the patch. a friend pointed out that the boat has ribs going port to starboard about every 8 to 10 inches and 3 ribs on the bottom running bow to stern which makes a nice cross section and makes a very stiff hull. made me think its like glassing wood and trying to break it the wood usually fails before the glass.
honestly i've been very impressed by this product. does anyone have any experience with marine-tex any pros or cons. i'm looking for actual success or failures. i've heard theories that the flex would cause it to fail, but i think it might work. i'm going at it optimisticly secptical (sic).(i'm a bad speller)

joe

 

[mikezohsix]

Re: 1986 21 ft starcraft cc restore

Joe-

Check out my thread here..

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=362705&highlight=grumman

... where I went through the process of figuring out what to do for corrosion.

I also considered the 5200 sandwich, but ended up with a West Systems G/Flex 655 sandwich. G/Flex is a flexible two part epoxy that has much better adhesion than the 5200. The adhesion properties is what will keep the joint from popping off, along with the ability to flex.

That's for the hull corrosion.

For the ribs, since you have them out, I'd stop the corrosion with the West Systems aluminum prep kit (pn 680 something) which is an acid wash and then alodine. Then I'd take the ribs to a welder and have him weld tubing that was split in half lengthwise, over the existing rib. Tell him you alodined the aluminum, because he'll have to remove it in the local areas he's welding, but you want it in all the corrosion pits to be sure you've stopped what ever is going on.

You could also try just remaking the ribs from aluminum tube too, but I don't think you'd be able to form it.

PM me direct if you'd like to talk about what I did.

mike