1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

jigngrub

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

What type of head are you going with on those rivets? Large flange or dome? Are you going to install them before the finish goes over the decking, or are going to install through the finish (carpet, vinyl, etc.)?

The reason I ask is that those rivets are too long for 1/2" decking, even if you're going through carpet.
 

baginwal

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

What type of head are you going with on those rivets? Large flange or dome? Are you going to install them before the finish goes over the decking, or are going to install through the finish (carpet, vinyl, etc.)?

The reason I ask is that those rivets are too long for 1/2" decking, even if you're going through carpet.

Jig: The plan is to secure the deck (w/rivets) and then apply the flooring (probably nautelex or original vinyl).

Quite a few years ago, I realized replacing the floor was inevitable, so i contacted Starcraft in Indiana and was put through to one of the boat builders. He told me to get that size. I tried to contact him recently with no luck (not suprising as they closed up shop).

Based on how rivets work, providing I have no obstructions below, it seemed like it wouldn't matter. Is this wrong?

Thanks.
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

They should be ok unless the mandrel breaks off long.

To select the proper rivet length for the job, use the grip range and not the overall length. On the longer rivets the mandrel usually breaks off deep, but on the shorter rivets the mandrel will break off just below the top of the rivet. If the rivet isn't the correct grip range this will leave the mandrel sticking above the top of the rivet and will cause problems.

For 1/2" plywood a grip range of .501-.625 or .626-.725 will be ideal depending upon the thickness of the metal you're fastening to.

Not trying to be a butthead, just trying to help.
 

baginwal

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

They should be ok unless the mandrel breaks off long.

To select the proper rivet length for the job, use the grip range and not the overall length. On the longer rivets the mandrel usually breaks off deep, but on the shorter rivets the mandrel will break off just below the top of the rivet. If the rivet isn't the correct grip range this will leave the mandrel sticking above the top of the rivet and will cause problems.

For 1/2" plywood a grip range of .501-.625 or .626-.725 will be ideal depending upon the thickness of the metal you're fastening to.

Not trying to be a butthead, just trying to help.

Jig: Absolutely not! I value your opinion and appreciate it!

Once i get the floor off (hopefully by this weekend), i will check out the thickness of the metal. With these numbers you can tell me which of the two grip ranges would be best.

Again.....Thank you!:)
 

baginwal

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

Finally got the whole floor off the boat (pics are coming).

Question: I decided to go with the West System epoxy resin (105) with hardener (206) to seal the new plywood prior to applying the vinyl flooring. Can I roll this on and how many coats do you guys suggest? This is a better way to go than varnish, correct? Any bad experiences with the West System products?

Thanks
 

ezmobee

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

West is top of the line stuff from what I understand. Should certainly be a step up from varnish. I applied my epoxy with cheap 3" chip brushes from Harbor Freight. 2 coats each side hitting the edges every time. I believe some have rolled it and some just used a plastic spreader. I was happy with my application method.
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

I used a plastic wallpaper tool to spread my epoxy around with and then back brushed it with a chip brush:

DSC02223.jpg


The plastic spreader is the most efficient way to get the epoxy spread over the surface, and that's important when working with a product with a short pot life. The chip brushes just smoothed/evened it out after I got it spread.

I still have the spreader, it cleans up easily with mineral spirits. I threw the chip brushes away when the epoxy started to set in them.

2-4 coats of epoxy will do well, I went with 4 coats and it was a very durable application and like a sheet of glass over my plywood.

DSC02217.jpg
 

baginwal

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

ezombee & Jigngrub.....THANK YOU!

Once sealed, I was going to try and hit the same holes in the boat stringers to secure the floor. Is this feasible or am I better off driling
new holes? My concern is if I miss by alittle (if I need to drill it out abit) the rivet will be loose.

Thanks again to you guys and for a great site!
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

If you're using new plywood just drill new holes, much quicker and more secure.
 

ezmobee

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

Agreed. Trying to hit the old ones is would be seriously frustrating anyway.
 

baginwal

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

Thanks again guys.

It was suggested that I use contact cement (S-10 or S-18?) for laying the vinyl flooring down. What do you think?

Thanks.
 

ezmobee

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

I have heard good reports of that and I think jigngrub used it. I personally went with the Nautolex adhesive and was pleased with it. It's pricey though for sure.
 

baginwal

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

Thanks EZ!

I was leaning toward the Nautolex adhesive as it only needs to be applied to the (sealed) plywood and therefore would be more forgiving (as opposed to the contact cement where once you touch vinyl to plywood, there is no removing). Is this the case?
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

The Nautolex 88 is a more forgiving adhesive because the bond isn't immediate... but, the nautolex has to be fastened mechanically until it setsup/cures. This means stapling or taping the vinyl in place.

I used both contact cement and the Nautolex 88, the Nautolex is easier to work with until you get the hang of the contact cement. Just pick the one you think you'll be the most comfortable with.
 

ezmobee

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baginwal

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

Hey Guys,

I am FINALLY (this weekend) going to rivet the floor back in. My plan is to use the nautelex 88 adhesive to set the viny on the plywood floor.

Can someone tell me what to use to get the glue off the aluminum side panels and what glue to use to adhere the vinyl. Should I go with contact cement? If so, what brand?

Thanks again.....I am hoping to get the boat completed for 4th of July weekend!
 

ezmobee

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

If you're just going to be applying new vinyl.....then I wouldn't waste a lot of time or effort trying to get ALL the old glue off. I just hit mine with an angle grinder with a wire brush on it to knock all the chunks off and smooth it out a bit. The 88 adhesive worked fine and has held for over 2 years at this point in those areas.
 

baginwal

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Re: 1989 Starcraft Mariner MR18 CC Floor Replacement

Thanks ezmobee.

Cabelas's sells a carpet and vinyl floor adhesive (cat # sn-01-7419) they claim is "highly recommended for marine applications." The cost is about 1/3 the price of the nautolex 88 adhesive ($25 vs $80 per gallon).

I definitely want to use the better product and not "cheap out" at this stage of the restoration, but if both are essentially the same product, I would rather spend the $50 dollars on something else for the boat.

Does anyone have any experience/knowledge regarding the Cabelas adhesive?

Thanks again guys.
 
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