1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Quick question? I am running into alot of dry glass under some of the plywood installed on the stern area for ladder mount, and rear tow(?) u bolts and such. Do I have to remove this stuff all the way down to the hull or can I just roll on some resin? The problem is I started to remove it and just kept digging deeper and deeper trying to get to the hull and I think I have pulled off the inner most layer of the hull(small section of woven roven). what I want to do now is just cutoff what has peeled up, spread some resin on the dry glass, and sand smooth,then add some CSM to build it back up. anyone see a problem with that? I dont know what else to do other than that. See the pic below, the whitish/yellow areas is dry csm under a layer of resin soaked cloth. It bugs me...

 

[bakerjw]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Tagging along.

You have no idea of how lucky you were to be able to pop the cap of your boat. My Stratos had the cap glued to the hull. The only way to get it apart was to cut out almost the entire deck.

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Wow, that stinks. I guess sometimes Bayliner is a good thing. I think they tried to glue it or atleast caulk it with something, but it broke loose pretty easily. Good luck with your restore
Also I didn't just lift the cap, I used jacks inside and sort of pryed them apart, might of made it easier for me that way.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

To answer your question...
You shouldn't try to put resin on that dry cloth...it probably won't wet out properly and you'll just waste resin.
You have gone this far, it is really no big deal to just get rid of the bad stuff and lay up some new glass to build it back up before you install the new transom...
You might find that you can get a chisel started in around the edge of the bad stuff and some or most of it should lift right off, grind away a taper all around, and fair it back to level with new laminates...

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Thanks GT
The chisel is how I discovered what the yellow/white areas are. Was prying/chiseling off some tabbing and it just kept getting deeper.

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Allrighty then I have made some progress since I last posted. Finally finished all the grinding, it could probably be better but there comes a point when you have to say enough is enough. I measured the original transom thickness at 2.5". SO I used 2 pieces of 3/4" ish and 1 piece of 1/2" ish to make my transom. Glued them together with PL glue Frisco Jarret style, used 4 clamps and alot of screws. When I cut it I was really happy because all the cut edges looked like one piece of ply. As of now I have the transom glassed in, and the two rear boards of my stringers glued in and drying.
Quick question, is it OK to use PL375? It says its an industrial strengh adhesive for any surfaces. I ask because It is different then the PL I used on the transom. Less liquid nails like and more silicone caulk like. I'd hate to have to redo do it but if I have to I will.
thanks for any replies and I will post up some more pics soon

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Haven't been on in a while, been busy working on the old bayliner. Well, I've gotten my transom, stringers, and builheads all tabbed in. This boat is not your typically shaped hull, sort catamaram looking, and the bulkheads stretch the entire width, so those wre a ton of fun getting to fit, not to mention they were all different dimensions... had to make carboard templates for everything. Anyway thats were I am at now. I got to get some pics up.. sometime this week and weekend I need to figure out how I am gonna brace it up for a flip. I'll get some pics of that too.
Later on fellas

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Got her flipped, pretty ingenious if I do say so myself. Just my wife and I, a power boat winch and a ford f150. Went really well too.
I keep saying I am gonna post pics....just lazy I guess, I've been taking them though. Anyway Gel Coat is a PITA.. I hate it. I've been applying and sanding all week and it still looks like S. Having a hard time color matching. I've gotten alot of the dings and scrapes filled in and smooth, but applying a final layer with a spray gun trying to match the color sucks. I get a coat on and after I wet sand to smooth its mostly gone. I tried to match the gelcoat used for the repairs but its not perfect and once I sand down the best matched final spray the patches show through. ARGGGG gonna be upside dowm for a while I guess til I figure this out.
So question? Never used a long board before , are they padded under the sand paper or hard? I have a short (autobody?) sanding board that is padded under the paper, but it doesnt get it flat, so I used some 2x4 pieces with paper and it gets it flat but cakes up pretty bad. thinking of making one with a layer of gasket material glued between the 2x4 and paper, think that will work? waiting for a roll of 1000 grit to show up then I think I am gonna give that a shot.

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

I understand your gelcoat trouble. Here's the thing. Most gelcoats are formulated to "hide" at 12 mils thickness. At 12 mils you can't see through it to what's under. To get 12 mils dry you need to put on nearly 18 mils wet. You also need some thickness to get a good cure, gelcoat just don't polymerize (polymerise?) GET HARD well without any mass to develop some exothermic heat. When you put on 18mils it is pretty thick and then to match the surrounding area height you'll find yourself sanding it all off and then you can see through it again. The first thing to do is sand down the repair area to a depth of 10 mils or so and then when you spray the new stuff on you'll only need to sand a little to match the height of the rest of it and you will leave enough to hide what's under it. If you feather sand the edges of the area your going to spray it will help match the surface profile. Annnnnnnnnnnd,,, That's why I prefer paint, paint will hide at 2-3 mils. Gelcoat is a lot of work unless it is sprayed on a mold.

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

how thick is a mil? I've read that alot but never knew how thick it is.. does it stand for millimeter?

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

never mind, googled it. 1 thousandth of an inch. So how thick do you all think one good covering sprayed coat of gel is?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Maybe 1-2 mils but...You will need to sand it soo... I'd spray 3-4 coats and then sand down to the 1 mil needed.

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Yesterday evening I pulled out the DA with 60 grit and sanded all my areas down past what I hope was the top layer of original gel by removing most of the ill-matched patching. mixed up the best matched batch yet, and sprayed it on pretty thick. I've got one flat area on the bottom of the hull that had some cracking, but most of the areas of repair are curved so I think the long board is out (except flat area) because it will probably flatten out these curves and remove too much of my newly sprayed top coat. my biggest repaired areas is the flat spot on the bottom (gel was cracked all the way to the glass) and one of the keels. It really is a pain to try to match the original contours but I got it as good as I can... we'll see. SO tonight when I go to sand should I use the DA or hand sand with short boards (12") or a foam backed auto body sanding blocks (8" and 6"). What I have for sanding now is an electric HF DA (I've used it with water and so far so good) 60 grit, 100, 220, and I can cut 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, and 1500 to fit. I have a piece of 2x4 set up at about 12" using the wide side, 1 piece cut down to about 2 1/2 inches wide 12" long and these



can I use any of these to get it smooth? I am waiting on a roll of 1000 grit to show up once that happens I can make a 2x4 board as long as I need it.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Depending on how flat the hull really is, you can use any of the sanding blocks you have pictured or you can make your "soft" sanding blocks out of some EPS [aka, white bead styrofoam]







You can shape them into whatever size/contour you need...I used the wire brush in the pic to unclog the sandpaper when it got loaded...
When you get into the wet sanding, use some soapy water as a lubricant and rinse frequently with water...

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

these are the two main areas circled/boxed
in red

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

I swear I posted a link to a bunch of pictures on photobucket for my build. Dont know why it didn't show up. Well I got the inside of the hull finished and slid it back under the cap for the winter. I ended up using the two part foam and it worked out pretty good. I had to buy like 400.00 dollars worth of the stuff (I needed over 80 cubic feet!) Anyway, heres a link to the pictures
1994 Bayliner Deckboat Restoration Photos by audijunky_13 | Photobucket

 

[redneck joe]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

awesome

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

thanks, she was my first...and probably only one

 

[redneck joe]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

thanks, she was my first...and probably only one

famous last words....


Besides my canoe and rowboat as a kid I'm on my eighth boat, fourth restore project (nothing as involved as yours).

 

[greenbush future]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

You seem to be doing a better than factory job, and should be quite proud of your efforts. Just curious about how much glass and resin a job this big takes? That boat is built like a tank!!